TA-05 ver.2
#1667
Tech Elite
iTrader: (153)
Here are a few photos and a video of my first IFS car...a TA05 Frankenstien project. It's got pieces from various versions along with just about every imaginable hop-up
Thanks to my brother for shooting the video on his new camera. This footage is from only the car's second run / battery pack. Not bad...but was made better on subsequent runs
Thanks to my brother for shooting the video on his new camera. This footage is from only the car's second run / battery pack. Not bad...but was made better on subsequent runs
+ YouTube Video | |
#1669
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I have had my TA05v.2 since the Cucso Subaru came out. I race at a local parking lot race in a RCGT class with 17.5. last year i had an issue with not enough steering but I got that fixed. This year I put on an Exotek chassis and running the same setup i had last year. I put on the chassis to lose weight. I think i weighted in at 1530g with what i had. with the exotek i came down to 1488g. Well anyways long story short I am having issues with rear end kicking out at on-throttle exiting corners. here is my setup. Also this is parking lot track so it is low-mid traction.
5mm ride height, Blue springs in the front, Yellow shorts in the rear. no swaybars (but have them) 0deg in front toe, 2.5deg toe in rear, -1.5deg camber in front, -3deg camber in rear. front droop is 5, rear droop is 4. solid spool in front. rear diff is 1/4 turn out from tight. also i am running IFS setup due to running HSV and 07 nsx bodies.
5mm ride height, Blue springs in the front, Yellow shorts in the rear. no swaybars (but have them) 0deg in front toe, 2.5deg toe in rear, -1.5deg camber in front, -3deg camber in rear. front droop is 5, rear droop is 4. solid spool in front. rear diff is 1/4 turn out from tight. also i am running IFS setup due to running HSV and 07 nsx bodies.
#1670
the arms are already reversible, or are you asking about using the long arms, since the v2 already uses the short arm configuration.
#1672
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,854
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Ray.....The arms from the TB03 are the short rev arms but in the soft plastic. The easy way to check is look for the number of shock mounting holes in the arm....4 holes they are the short arms.....5 holes they are the longer ver. Also if you still have the header card it will say on the card what cars the part will work with.
#1674
edit: gonna run a savox servo
Last edited by Gho5tRevo; 03-15-2011 at 10:27 AM.
#1675
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Hi, new to the Tamiya cars and I have a TA05 V2 R on its way, i have read a lot of this thread and have got the general idea of parts campatable etc, but still have some unanswered questions, if you lot could help on the following it would be a big help...
1) The suspension on the R is the short reversible kind right? Does this mean that C-Hubs and steering knuckles of the 416 and 417 fit..as do drive shafts / axles etc?
2) The R comes with TB03 blocks 1C and 1E and Ver II seperate blocks 1C - 1XC and 1A - 1XA...what does that mean lol! How much rear toe will this give me and what blocks/combo of blocks will i need to get to achieve 2, 2.5, 3 deg of rear toe at standard track width?
3) Are there any rear hub carriers with built in toe available? (carbon plastic and original Tamiya preferable)
4) I have the white spring kit (49382) coming, but that is listed as 'hard' - would springs are included? Is there another set of TRF white springs with softer ratings available or is the black short spring set the only other option?
5) Do the 416/417 diffs crossover to the TA05 and is there a Tamiya gear diff out yet?
Lots of questions there, thanks everyone in advance for your help.
Chris
1) The suspension on the R is the short reversible kind right? Does this mean that C-Hubs and steering knuckles of the 416 and 417 fit..as do drive shafts / axles etc?
2) The R comes with TB03 blocks 1C and 1E and Ver II seperate blocks 1C - 1XC and 1A - 1XA...what does that mean lol! How much rear toe will this give me and what blocks/combo of blocks will i need to get to achieve 2, 2.5, 3 deg of rear toe at standard track width?
3) Are there any rear hub carriers with built in toe available? (carbon plastic and original Tamiya preferable)
4) I have the white spring kit (49382) coming, but that is listed as 'hard' - would springs are included? Is there another set of TRF white springs with softer ratings available or is the black short spring set the only other option?
5) Do the 416/417 diffs crossover to the TA05 and is there a Tamiya gear diff out yet?
Lots of questions there, thanks everyone in advance for your help.
Chris
#1676
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
1)Yeah the 416 arms and uprights should fit. I think the 417 has revised uprights? Can someone else confirm.
2)A difference in each block is 0.5 a degree. Best to just look at a chart.
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...ckSettings.pdf
So your rear toe will be 3 degree, drop to a rear A or B block to get 2 and 2.5 degrees.
3) Tamiya 54137 has 1 degree but its aluminium. I dont know of any plastic or carbon ones.
4)The white hard spring set includes springs from the original red to white hardness, the white springs your getting will probably have dots on the tops telling you what they are.
Check the chart:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/Univ...pringChart.pdf
5) No the 416 diffs are a different width, Spec R is the only gear diff for the TA05 that I know of.
2)A difference in each block is 0.5 a degree. Best to just look at a chart.
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...ckSettings.pdf
So your rear toe will be 3 degree, drop to a rear A or B block to get 2 and 2.5 degrees.
3) Tamiya 54137 has 1 degree but its aluminium. I dont know of any plastic or carbon ones.
4)The white hard spring set includes springs from the original red to white hardness, the white springs your getting will probably have dots on the tops telling you what they are.
Check the chart:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/Univ...pringChart.pdf
5) No the 416 diffs are a different width, Spec R is the only gear diff for the TA05 that I know of.
#1678
Can the Exotek EX05 Lipo Chasis fit bigger spur gear instaed of 105 spur gear?
#1679
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
This is my first Tamiya build, my first TC build and the first diff build in 20 years. All my prior build experience is on pan cars a long time ago. I ran into a lot of trouble building the diffs.
First problem was my fault since I left out one of the bearings. I figured that out when I was assembling the 2nd diff and saw 3 bearings left when I expected to see 2.
2nd problem was that I did not notice the twist in the arrow between the diagram of diff parts on left side of block 3 and the center picture of the assembled diff showing the insertion of the spring and long bolt to tighten the diff. I didn't flip the diff before I put in those pieces shown in the center picture.
Of course, I realized my error when I found the dog bones didn't fit right. Too little room on the left side and way too much room on the right [the dog bone just fell out since it went into the diff about 0.5 inches too much].
The twist in the arrow is very subtle and easily missed, at least to me. Is this typical of Tamiya builds?
Us newbies would sure benefit from highlight of some kind saying "don't miss the twist"!
I guess I have to really closely examine the picture for each step before doing it.
I picked the TA05 to use in a new spec class at my LHS. It will basically be a silver can TC class. I read that the TA05 was a good car with a wide "tuning band" that made it easier to setup and drive. I knew I had a lot to learn in my re-entry to the hobby but I didn't expect to be humbled quite so early in the build process.
I fixed one diff and called it a night. I fix the other one tomorrow before I go into work. Gosh I hope I don't stumble again in the rest of the build process!
First problem was my fault since I left out one of the bearings. I figured that out when I was assembling the 2nd diff and saw 3 bearings left when I expected to see 2.
2nd problem was that I did not notice the twist in the arrow between the diagram of diff parts on left side of block 3 and the center picture of the assembled diff showing the insertion of the spring and long bolt to tighten the diff. I didn't flip the diff before I put in those pieces shown in the center picture.
Of course, I realized my error when I found the dog bones didn't fit right. Too little room on the left side and way too much room on the right [the dog bone just fell out since it went into the diff about 0.5 inches too much].
The twist in the arrow is very subtle and easily missed, at least to me. Is this typical of Tamiya builds?
Us newbies would sure benefit from highlight of some kind saying "don't miss the twist"!
I guess I have to really closely examine the picture for each step before doing it.
I picked the TA05 to use in a new spec class at my LHS. It will basically be a silver can TC class. I read that the TA05 was a good car with a wide "tuning band" that made it easier to setup and drive. I knew I had a lot to learn in my re-entry to the hobby but I didn't expect to be humbled quite so early in the build process.
I fixed one diff and called it a night. I fix the other one tomorrow before I go into work. Gosh I hope I don't stumble again in the rest of the build process!
#1680
Don't worry - you're not the first person to miss the "twist the diff" arrow!
It's a bit of a modern Tamiya trademark. Did it myself on my Durga build - and I have been building ball diffs almost non-stop for the past 20 years so have no excuses!
The only other curiousity in a TA-05 build is modifying the servo case. Apart from that it should all fall together.
It's a bit of a modern Tamiya trademark. Did it myself on my Durga build - and I have been building ball diffs almost non-stop for the past 20 years so have no excuses!
The only other curiousity in a TA-05 build is modifying the servo case. Apart from that it should all fall together.