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Old 08-20-2009, 04:37 AM   #151
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I am curious if anyone else has seen any issues like mine.
I will admit I am a little disappointed with my TA05 build.
There is a lot of side to side movement of my rear diff (I am using the aluminum out drives 53919). I had to use (2) 0.3mm & (1) 0.2mm shims to remove most of the play, plus they have some up and down movement as well.
Same goes for the front spool (53877) that I am using.
Also, I have the front belt on its tightest setting to get decent belt tension and haven't even run the car yet; while the rear belt I had to loosen it up a little from the stock build settings indicated in the instructions
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Old 08-20-2009, 06:47 AM   #152
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Originally Posted by xniperliams View Post
Hi guys. This TA05 v2 uses large diff plate that requires synthetic cement. I have never used this style. The small diff plate, because it is not round in the inner edge, does not require glue or cement. So does that mean if we are to change the diff plate, we have to change the diff cup, too? Or can we disassemble the plate and reuse the diff cup with a new plate? Thanks.

I have never glued the races to the outdrives ever, and had no problems. Older cars all had diff plates with round holes (i.e. no key to locate them) and the manuals didn't instruct to glue anything. The main problem I see if you glue the diff plates is that they may not sit exactly flat on the outdrives thus creating a high spot so the diff is not going to be smooth. My suggestion is that you prepeare the diff plate faces properly, sand them flat and nice, make sure they have no bumps (high spots) and adjust you diff correctly and you won't have any problems. The Yokomo outdrives I used in the past that had no locating key on the outdrives had a shiny polished surface for the balls to run on and the back was sanded to provide a keyed surface that ensured grip on the outdrives. I guess if you used 360 grit sandpaper or similar (perhaps 400 is more common) you would achieve the same result.
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Old 08-20-2009, 05:04 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakr View Post
I am curious if anyone else has seen any issues like mine.
I will admit I am a little disappointed with my TA05 build.
There is a lot of side to side movement of my rear diff (I am using the aluminum out drives 53919). I had to use (2) 0.3mm & (1) 0.2mm shims to remove most of the play, plus they have some up and down movement as well.
Same goes for the front spool (53877) that I am using.
Also, I have the front belt on its tightest setting to get decent belt tension and haven't even run the car yet; while the rear belt I had to loosen it up a little from the stock build settings indicated in the instructions
That sounds a bit odd to me, because I haven't noticed anything like that on mine, I also added the aluminum diff outdrives in the rear of mine, & I also installed a front one-way(spools just aren't my thing, I'm more comfortable with one-ways), & while there is a TINY amount of side to side play, I don't consider it to be enough to worry about(& I haven't added any shims on either end of the car). Also, my belts seemed a wee bit tight when I built mine, so I actually loosened them one notch from the manual's suggested setting, & after a few weeks, they feel PERFECT now.....
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Old 08-20-2009, 10:35 PM   #154
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slakr, don't tighten the belts before you run the car. I have found that the looser the belts, the better. After running it in a little bit, check again for slack and test if the belts skip by applying the brakes abruptly at full speed. You can readjust then if necessary.
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Old 08-21-2009, 12:58 AM   #155
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If you use the aluminum out drives yes you will be able to, if you use the plastic out drives then it depends if you can clean the glue/cement off the plastic.
You can use contact cement which does not bond into the plastic. It can be removed quite easily.

I have another idea though, to use loctite. Since it is a low tack adhesive. Has anybody tried this method?
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Old 08-21-2009, 03:09 AM   #156
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My TA05 is with "Timmie" right now (you will see him frequently on the TB03 thread... he is a Tamiya fanatic ) to finish, setup and check over (he is also a pretty darn good painter ).
I can understand a little play/slop considering that it is a plastic car and the low expense of the kit. Even so; I feel that it seems excessive on mine; which is why I posted the question.
The weird thing about the belts is that to get them to what I thought would be a good starting tension (not tight, slightly loose, but not crazy loose)... I had to loosen the rear belt from the kit directions setting and the front belt had to be set at its tightest just to get them semi equal. Which is weird since they are supposed to be equal length belts.
Anyway, I should be giving it a first test run Saturday. At my local track I race with Tim H (Timmie) and Jimmy Mac... so there is plenty of "Tamiya expertise" to help me out.

On the non-keyed diff rings... I used some very tacky grease between the ring and the outdrive. The other thing that may work is a thin layer of Shoe Goo. Shoe Goo makes a very strong bond (if you let it set overnight), but yet is still easy to remove if needed (but I haven't tried it on a diff ring).
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Old 08-21-2009, 03:20 AM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakr View Post

On the non-keyed diff rings... I used some very tacky grease between the ring and the outdrive.
Anti wear grease?
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Old 08-21-2009, 03:27 AM   #158
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post

On the non-keyed diff rings... I used some very tacky grease between the ring and the outdrive. The other thing that may work is a thin layer of Shoe Goo. Shoe Goo makes a very strong bond (if you let it set overnight), but yet is still easy to remove if needed (but I haven't tried it on a diff ring).
Did you actually check the belts are equal? I know it's not normal, but recently I found Tamiya kits are slipping in quality. Perhaps it's the lack of serious competition.

With the diff rings I would say the shoe-goo is the worst idea. You will never get an even coat of that stuff on the outdrive face. Tacky grease might actually be a lot better. As I said, I wouldn't worry about it. Remember, the balls only have rolling friction to work against whereas between the outdrive face and the plate there is a large amount of static friction that needs to be overcome before they'll slip. Most of the time they'll slip when the balls are knackered or you get so much crap in the diff it can't work anymore, so the diff will be destroyed anyway when this happens.
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Old 08-21-2009, 04:54 AM   #159
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I will admit that I did not compare the two belts side by side, although each package had the same part number.
I have never tried the shoe goo on a diff, but tou are right; it is definately next to impossible to get an even layer.
I will have to look at the grease; we use it at work. Very tacky and you don't need vey much. I use it on most of my ball diffs (on & off-road) to hold the diff ring to the outdrive for easier assembly.
I should be running the car Saturday and if it performs well & holds up, I guess all is forgiven
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Old 08-21-2009, 05:07 AM   #160
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If you haven't built the diffs yet, I would try them without anything. Just scuff them up a bit as I suggested above with some 400 sandpaper and build everything else as per kit instructions. Tacky as it may seem the grease is exactly that, which means it will reduce friction between plate and outdrive.
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Old 08-21-2009, 05:40 AM   #161
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Thus increasing the chance of slip
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:06 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakr View Post
I will admit that I did not compare the two belts side by side, although each package had the same part number.
I have never tried the shoe goo on a diff, but tou are right; it is definately next to impossible to get an even layer.
I will have to look at the grease; we use it at work. Very tacky and you don't need vey much. I use it on most of my ball diffs (on & off-road) to hold the diff ring to the outdrive for easier assembly.
I should be running the car Saturday and if it performs well & holds up, I guess all is forgiven
Thanks for the kind words

There is definitely a problem with the front belt tension on the car. So it's nothing you did wrong in the assembly of the car Tim ( yeah were both Tim's) There are some things I still plan on trying to resolve this issue though. I will post up what I did if I can fix it. Front diff cams are on the tightest setting and the belt is still pretty loose. I did remove both belts to check for equal length * first thing I did* and they are both equal. I think the problem might actually be the chassis tub itself unfortunately. I believe it bowed some when it was cooling down from being molded possibly. I've checked it with a straight edge, but doing it this way is just a ball park way of checking since it is a tub chassis. After some track time today, I'll take it down and do some height measurements at different points on the car. Other than that possibly the cams are incorrectly made. The weird thing about the problem is that the rear belt tension is perfect. But with all this being said, I have noticed on all the TA's I've seen that the belts are run very loose and don't seem to skip. So I believe it will be fine as far as racing this weekend goes.

As far as the spool/diff needing shims to correct side to side play, They show in illustrations of the spool for the need of shims in the back of the book. Tim if you still have the small instruction sheet that came with the spool give it a quick look to verify that the shims illustrated in the back of the instruction manual appear here as well. If not, then obviously there was a error in printing. For the rear aluminum diff, They do not have it listed in the hop up parts drawings in the back of the manual. So I have nothing to go by. A little side to side play on diffs in a belt car is not that big of a deal. But without the shims installed it was a bit excessive.

On the diff rings my personal preference is to sand both sides until they are true. I start with 400 to speed up the process and finish off with 800 grit with a new set of rings. After I get them flat, I final sand in a figure 8 pattern. A dab of AW grease to hold the diff rings up during assembly, associated black grease for the thrust, and associated stealth lube for the balls. Another thing is ceramic diff balls. There cheap and make your diff smooth as glass. I run these in all my cars.

Oh and don't worry about its performance, It's going to be fast. I have never had a issue like what your car has with any Tamiya chassis before so I think it was just bad luck. But trust me, when you pull the trigger it will make you forget you ever got frustrated with it
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:35 AM   #163
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Hey Tim/Slakr, the spool you have might not have the right pulley. I don't remember off the top of my head, but the regular TA05 uses 36 tooth pulley and the Ver 2 uses 37 tooth pulley. If this is correct, then this is why you can not get your front belt tight enough.
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:48 AM   #164
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It is great to have some good experienced help with these things

I guess the question is do I take a chance and order a new chassis and/or diff adjusters (and where to find them)... or just run it the way it is.

Couldn't find the chassis on Speedtech, Ampdraw, RCMart or RCMushroom.
I think it is... RC Chassis: 58435 Item #9115256
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=9115256
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:53 AM   #165
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That's a good point Jimmy. I did use the pulley that came with the spool and not the 2nd pulley that came with the v2.

Tim H. (Timmie), the other pulley that came with the kit should be in the box. Can you check this out?

Also, the little direction slips that came with the spool and the aluminum diff outdrives should also be in the box I think.
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