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Old 08-09-2009, 10:35 PM   #136
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Found it...

Low = 10*
Mid = 20*
High = 30*

Turning the endbell counter clockwise inceases timing
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Old 08-11-2009, 11:05 PM   #137
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Hey, took my car out to the track on Sunday and encountered a couple issues, was hoping I could get some tips. First of all, I think I'm going to upgrade the front axles to CVD's - I found that when I had the front wheels turned all the way left or right, the pin on the axle side of the dogbones would be almost completely out of the axle - so when I'd accelerate with the wheel turned, the dogbone would pop right out of the axle and get stuck. I stuck an o-ring in the outdrive to push the bone further into the axle, but that's an issue with the kit setup.

The other thing was, after I would have a collision - even a minor one, sometimes - my steering would start pulling to one side or the other. I looked at the axles and the steering linkage but it seemed fine. Any idea what this might be caused by? Everything is pretty much plastic in this kit, so I'm assuming there's a lot of room for slippage or tweak if I run into something...which I'll hopefully do a lot less of, with a few more practice sessions!

I love this car so far though, tons of fun. Huge adjustment from driving off-road for the last year!
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:17 AM   #138
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The driveshaft popping out of the wheel axle is pretty much common on the TA05 type cars as well. You have found the solution however. Later, universals.

About the steering becoming misaligned I would check to make sure there is no binding or any other problem with the linkages, suspension, etc. Assuming everything checks out, I would guess it is a servo saver issue. The kit savers on these kits (and even the high torque upgrade saver from Tamiya) are pretty crappy. What happens is that for every shock in the steering, the circular springs hit the plastic shoulders on the saver arms and chip away a bit of plastic so the spring doesn't rest against the shoulders where they did when new any more. This allows for a new "zero" position to be set and of course your wheels are not going to be straight with this new zero position.

Get some decent saver such as one from Kimborough and you'll be fine. Plastic everywhere doesn't help as you realised, but the saver really leaves a lot to be desired.

The other way around it is to get a serious servo and go without a saver, but I am not a fan of this idea. I run some of the best servos there are in my cars and still use savers. After all, a JR servo (8715 I think is the number for the US market) is almost the price of the whole damn car!
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:43 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdeselms View Post
.

Everything is pretty much plastic in this kit, so I'm assuming there's a lot of room for slippage or tweak if I run into something...which I'll hopefully do a lot less of, with a few more practice sessions!

I love this car so far though, tons of fun. Huge adjustment from driving off-road for the last year!
I have run touring cars and the plastic parts have more give than the composite parts such as the arms, uprights etc. they should be able to take a hit without breaking than the more brittle parts. that is unless you should hit the driverstand wfo! The composite parts should give you a more precise fit, then again your set up needs to be more precise. You will see set up stands ($$) in the pits. It all depends upon what level you want to take it.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:09 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdeselms View Post
Hey, took my car out to the track on Sunday and encountered a couple issues, was hoping I could get some tips. First of all, I think I'm going to upgrade the front axles to CVD's - I found that when I had the front wheels turned all the way left or right, the pin on the axle side of the dogbones would be almost completely out of the axle - so when I'd accelerate with the wheel turned, the dogbone would pop right out of the axle and get stuck. I stuck an o-ring in the outdrive to push the bone further into the axle, but that's an issue with the kit setup.

The other thing was, after I would have a collision - even a minor one, sometimes - my steering would start pulling to one side or the other. I looked at the axles and the steering linkage but it seemed fine. Any idea what this might be caused by? Everything is pretty much plastic in this kit, so I'm assuming there's a lot of room for slippage or tweak if I run into something...which I'll hopefully do a lot less of, with a few more practice sessions!

I love this car so far though, tons of fun. Huge adjustment from driving off-road for the last year!
Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
The driveshaft popping out of the wheel axle is pretty much common on the TA05 type cars as well. You have found the solution however. Later, universals.

About the steering becoming misaligned I would check to make sure there is no binding or any other problem with the linkages, suspension, etc. Assuming everything checks out, I would guess it is a servo saver issue. The kit savers on these kits (and even the high torque upgrade saver from Tamiya) are pretty crappy. What happens is that for every shock in the steering, the circular springs hit the plastic shoulders on the saver arms and chip away a bit of plastic so the spring doesn't rest against the shoulders where they did when new any more. This allows for a new "zero" position to be set and of course your wheels are not going to be straight with this new zero position.

Get some decent saver such as one from Kimborough and you'll be fine. Plastic everywhere doesn't help as you realised, but the saver really leaves a lot to be desired.

The other way around it is to get a serious servo and go without a saver, but I am not a fan of this idea. I run some of the best servos there are in my cars and still use savers. After all, a JR servo (8715 I think is the number for the US market) is almost the price of the whole damn car!
upgrade your servo saver. the stock plastic one strips easily in a crash and will cause your car to wander.

as mentioned above, the kimbrough servo saver is great!
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:02 PM   #141
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Can you guys give me a part number or link on the servo saver you're talking about? I was kind of wondering whether or not that could be the issue, the way their kit saver is set up seemed a little iffy when I assembled it.
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:19 PM   #142
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Is this the part number KIM114 for the servo saver?
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:50 PM   #143
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Is this the part number KIM114 for the servo saver?
That's not the one I use, I think mine's their 201 saver(at least it looks just like mine, hadn't really looked at the part numbers before now), works just fine on both my 416 & my TA05ver.2....
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Old 08-12-2009, 08:43 PM   #144
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KIM201 is mid size. Will get 1 of this also.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:39 PM   #145
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Make sure the saver you buy fits your servo output shaft. Kimborough make them in various fittings but each will only fit one servo, so be careful.
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Old 08-13-2009, 05:24 AM   #146
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KIM114 is for Futaba
KIM201 will fit Futaba, Hitec, and Airtronics servos with holes 23,24,25 spline
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:47 AM   #147
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Default Large diff plate

Hi guys. This TA05 v2 uses large diff plate that requires synthetic cement. I have never used this style. The small diff plate, because it is not round in the inner edge, does not require glue or cement. So does that mean if we are to change the diff plate, we have to change the diff cup, too? Or can we disassemble the plate and reuse the diff cup with a new plate? Thanks.
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:52 AM   #148
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You can use the old diff out drives with the new larger diff rings but you will need to use CA or the cement you spoke of to secure the diff ring to the out drive.
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Old 08-14-2009, 03:05 AM   #149
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Hi Skitee. Thanks. But that is what I am trying to figure out. After gluing it with the cement, would I still be able to reuse the cup if I need to replace the diff ring/plate in the future? If replacing the ring/plate requires replacing the cup too, that is a bit ridiculous.
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Old 08-14-2009, 03:16 AM   #150
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If you use the aluminum out drives yes you will be able to, if you use the plastic out drives then it depends if you can clean the glue/cement off the plastic.
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