65LikesTC3 Forum
01-08-2006, 11:09 AM
I have a FT TC3 what can I expect if I go with a carbon fiber chassis like the BMI. Please list all pro's and con's. How big of a difference does this actually make. I know I can read all the manufacture info but I wanna hear actual experience stories from you guys.
Thanks
Thanks
01-08-2006, 11:16 AM
can I use the TC4 servo mounts in the TC3? I need to get an extra set or two and Im curious
01-08-2006, 11:17 AM
i didnt have the BMI but i had the warpspeed. I ran it for a season and it was a season of disapointment. i spent a whole season with problems like the spur would not line up with the diff case and was at an angle down for some reason and i couldnt get it straight so i lost speed becaure the drive train wasnt free it didnt handle any better then before and it was noiser and i had to weight it up. But it did look awsome cause it had every blue hop up with the blue chassis. I went back to the FT chassis and it fine i wouldnt go back to one again. But like i said it wasnt the BMI mainly cause they dont sell over here so im not 100% sure what they are like but id save your money and get some new cells or parts
01-08-2006, 09:41 PM
Originally Posted by FT_TC3Racer
I have a FT TC3 what can I expect if I go with a carbon fiber chassis like the BMI. Please list all pro's and con's. How big of a difference does this actually make. I know I can read all the manufacture info but I wanna hear actual experience stories from you guys.
Thanks
Thanks
Cheers
01-08-2006, 11:30 PM
FT_TC3Racer - I had been racing my FT TC3 straight out of the box for a few months at the local track and was running mid-pack in the Stock A main several months ago. I was driving well, but was not fast enough to win. I read some good things about the BMI chassis from others on this site (BMI thread) so I ordered one (one-way was added too).
The only drawback that I see currently is the chassis does not accept the larger IB3800's (I use GP3300). I have tried the new cells in another car, but I continue to race my TC3.
The BMI chassis gets a decent portion of weight out of the car, and the batteries are moved much closer to the centerline which helps it transition very quick. The chassis is extremely firm and works great on the high traction surface I race on using rubber tires. The change for me was very noticeable, and I think you will find the same. I have no affiliation with BMI, and I no longer run mid-pack.
The only drawback that I see currently is the chassis does not accept the larger IB3800's (I use GP3300). I have tried the new cells in another car, but I continue to race my TC3.
The BMI chassis gets a decent portion of weight out of the car, and the batteries are moved much closer to the centerline which helps it transition very quick. The chassis is extremely firm and works great on the high traction surface I race on using rubber tires. The change for me was very noticeable, and I think you will find the same. I have no affiliation with BMI, and I no longer run mid-pack.
01-09-2006, 05:29 AM
Originally Posted by trackdesigner71
Random ?: is the servo horn supposed to be vertical or horizontal and what about the ball cup? I want to make sure that I have that installed properly.
Random ? #2: when installing the receiver, what do you do to keep the antenna wire from going down through the hole in the chassis bottom so you can put it through the antenna tube?
Random ? #2: when installing the receiver, what do you do to keep the antenna wire from going down through the hole in the chassis bottom so you can put it through the antenna tube?
#2. I've seen people cut or grind a small hole in the side of the antenna tube just above where it presses into the chassis and run the antenna wire over and up from that.
01-09-2006, 05:37 AM
Originally Posted by trackdesigner71
can I use the TC4 servo mounts in the TC3? I need to get an extra set or two and Im curious
Last edited by Tigger; 01-10-2006 at 09:46 PM.
01-09-2006, 10:24 PM
Tech Apprentice
TC3 with BMI
well .. I have been racing the TC3 since I started .. matter of fact I still have my original plastic chassis racer upgraded with FT shocks for outdoor. I just switched to the BMI chassis because I was tired of gluing, grinding, trimming, and basically reworking a brand new chassis just to get it ready for racing. When its all set up its a great chassis. Is it on par with a TC4? .. not sure dont have one not sure if I am going to spend the money seeing as I am doing just fine against them with my TC3/BMI. The only issue that I had with the chassis is in the motor mount / mid bearing support. The retainer for the mid bearing was rubbing against the retainer cup for the driveshaft. I had to sand down the retainer for the mid bearing so the drivetrain would spin freely. Other than that its been a great chassis. And yes I havent put 3800's in it either. I am going to have to go back to the dremel and cut some tape slots and rework the battery slots to take the new 3800's. Even with that little bit of Dremeling and CAing and sanding the chassis edges thats still a lot less time on chassis prep before assembly than with a stock tub chassis, it'll probibly last a bunch longer since it wont warp from motor heat cause of the metal motor mount and its stiffer to boot. Where can you go wrong. If I get two years out of this chassis then its saved me bucks ... 
01-10-2006, 08:27 PM
umm sorry but i just dont get the whole "bite" thing like front end bite and rear end bite and all the other bites
SORRY
but can someone tell me about this?
SORRY
but can someone tell me about this?
01-12-2006, 09:35 PM
ANYONE? 
01-12-2006, 11:26 PM
bite = grip. Did this answer your question?
01-13-2006, 06:45 AM
Originally Posted by killingtime
bite = grip. Did this answer your question?
01-13-2006, 07:13 AM
TC3 to TC4
Re Post 10824 on the previous page.
I finished the conversion of my TC3 to TC4 with Associated parts. I made a list of parts that you need in post 10824 on the previous page. Here are some additional items you might need as well as some additional items that are different on the TC4.
ASC 2230 TC4 front Body Posts, The old rear ones will work. The fronts too if you want to redrill them. They will be oversized in diameter though.
ASC 7874 and 6926. These are 5/8 and 7/16 inch Socket head capscrews for the motor mount clamp. The old motor mount clamp from the factory team kit will fit, but the new one lets the motor breathe a little better.
My Set of Hardware for the new steering links was short two bushings to work on the TC4 so you will need at least two more bearings or bushings 3/16 x 5/16.
The New TC4 has thicker input shaft cups for the diff, but they are not larger diameter. The new driveshaft thus has a smaller ball on the end. The old shaft will not fit the new cups or vice versa. If your shaft is the least bit damaged get a new shaft and use the newer cups.
New foam bumper ASC 31023. The hole spacing is different, but you might be able to make the old one work. I like the twin deck bumper, but it needs more protection on the sides.
The inner hinge pins and pivot blocks are a little beefier than the TC3.
Here is a pic.
I finished the conversion of my TC3 to TC4 with Associated parts. I made a list of parts that you need in post 10824 on the previous page. Here are some additional items you might need as well as some additional items that are different on the TC4.
ASC 2230 TC4 front Body Posts, The old rear ones will work. The fronts too if you want to redrill them. They will be oversized in diameter though.
ASC 7874 and 6926. These are 5/8 and 7/16 inch Socket head capscrews for the motor mount clamp. The old motor mount clamp from the factory team kit will fit, but the new one lets the motor breathe a little better.
My Set of Hardware for the new steering links was short two bushings to work on the TC4 so you will need at least two more bearings or bushings 3/16 x 5/16.
The New TC4 has thicker input shaft cups for the diff, but they are not larger diameter. The new driveshaft thus has a smaller ball on the end. The old shaft will not fit the new cups or vice versa. If your shaft is the least bit damaged get a new shaft and use the newer cups.
New foam bumper ASC 31023. The hole spacing is different, but you might be able to make the old one work. I like the twin deck bumper, but it needs more protection on the sides.
The inner hinge pins and pivot blocks are a little beefier than the TC3.
Here is a pic.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-13-2006 at 07:24 AM.
01-13-2006, 03:00 PM
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
Re Post 10824 on the previous page.
I finished the conversion of my TC3 to TC4 with Associated parts. I made a list of parts that you need in post 10824 on the previous page. Here are some additional items you might need as well as some additional items that are different on the TC4.
ASC 2230 TC4 front Body Posts, The old rear ones will work. The fronts too if you want to redrill them. They will be oversized in diameter though.
ASC 7874 and 6926. These are 5/8 and 7/16 inch Socket head capscrews for the motor mount clamp. The old motor mount clamp from the factory team kit will fit, but the new one lets the motor breathe a little better.
My Set of Hardware for the new steering links was short two bushings to work on the TC4 so you will need at least two more bearings or bushings 3/16 x 5/16.
The New TC4 has thicker input shaft cups for the diff, but they are not larger diameter. The new driveshaft thus has a smaller ball on the end. The old shaft will not fit the new cups or vice versa. If your shaft is the least bit damaged get a new shaft and use the newer cups.
New foam bumper ASC 31023. The hole spacing is different, but you might be able to make the old one work. I like the twin deck bumper, but it needs more protection on the sides.
The inner hinge pins and pivot blocks are a little beefier than the TC3.
Here is a pic.
I finished the conversion of my TC3 to TC4 with Associated parts. I made a list of parts that you need in post 10824 on the previous page. Here are some additional items you might need as well as some additional items that are different on the TC4.
ASC 2230 TC4 front Body Posts, The old rear ones will work. The fronts too if you want to redrill them. They will be oversized in diameter though.
ASC 7874 and 6926. These are 5/8 and 7/16 inch Socket head capscrews for the motor mount clamp. The old motor mount clamp from the factory team kit will fit, but the new one lets the motor breathe a little better.
My Set of Hardware for the new steering links was short two bushings to work on the TC4 so you will need at least two more bearings or bushings 3/16 x 5/16.
The New TC4 has thicker input shaft cups for the diff, but they are not larger diameter. The new driveshaft thus has a smaller ball on the end. The old shaft will not fit the new cups or vice versa. If your shaft is the least bit damaged get a new shaft and use the newer cups.
New foam bumper ASC 31023. The hole spacing is different, but you might be able to make the old one work. I like the twin deck bumper, but it needs more protection on the sides.
The inner hinge pins and pivot blocks are a little beefier than the TC3.
Here is a pic.
how much money did all this cost you?
01-13-2006, 04:09 PM
About $85 plus shipping. Prices are in my post #10824 on the previous page. Prices may have gone up, but I got a good deal on a package that included the chassis shock towers, arms.
Here is a link to my first post on the subject post #10824. it has the prices.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...C4#post2049175
Here is a link to my first post on the subject post #10824. it has the prices.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...C4#post2049175