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Old 03-18-2002, 04:27 PM   #1456
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Wolfeman,
Did you ever get to try out the Sorex 32 R with Echo Red inserts at So-cal? I tried 36R with Echo red, but they needed over a minute to be super dialed.
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Old 03-18-2002, 04:27 PM   #1457
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Thanks for the tip on the heatsink. The extra one that covers the vent holes weighs 12 grams approx. Not running it should bring my car closer to the weight limit.
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Old 03-18-2002, 05:14 PM   #1458
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Hey for those of you guys that run mod......are you using the lightweight outdrives from Associated? If so, how are you setting your diffs? Seems like I can't get mine to stay consistant. Either they are too tight which makes the car feel funny when I'm driving it or they are too loose and I run the risk of melting them.
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Old 03-18-2002, 06:09 PM   #1459
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Schuie,, welcome to mod...
The extra horse power combine with a few bad landing`s from crashing will cus the diffs to slip,this causes extra wear & tear....
Thus more rebuilds...
You sould set the diffs tight & break them end with a few packs...
Reset after they loosen up...
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Old 03-18-2002, 06:25 PM   #1460
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Thanks for the response Wild Cherry I guess what I'm trying to figure out is would it be worth it to replace the plastic outdrives with some type of aluminum or even steel. Seems like they would be more resistant to the extreme forces placed on them by mod motors.
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Old 03-18-2002, 07:08 PM   #1461
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If i get a TC3 I will Probably get One of the following esc

1. Novak TC2
2. LRP IPC 7.1
3. LRP IPC SR

I will be racing on carpet, stock, but later I will move up to mod. The only thing is that my LHS owner says that Novaks are much more dependable and dont break as often. But I really want one of the IPC ones because they supply more amps. Can I use the 7.1 on a stock motor for now? Or will I have to use the SR? Are the LRP less dependable and more problem prone? Will the more amps help much? Please help me because I am kind of new to electric cars so I am totally lost.
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Old 03-18-2002, 08:08 PM   #1462
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TC2. I've owned LRP and they are no where near the quality of Novak is. When I had a LRP I was always a lap off the pace...no I'm one of the guys that sets the pace with the Novak. Novaks customers service is the best out there too. I had a friend that bought a inoperable TC2 from someone for $5, and he sent it to Novak with a $40 service charge to fix it, and they sent him a brand new one. I had to send a LRP back...and it was hassel. Got for the TC2, you won't regret it .
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Old 03-18-2002, 08:27 PM   #1463
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Another thing you can do to help that heatsink out is to use some thermal grease between the heatsink and the motor. Even without the vent holes, the heatsink is over 20 degrees hotter than the motor. Whereas without the grease, the temp was about 5 different. Keep that in mind as well. The little bit of goop that is on the motor is a small price to pay for a cooler, longer lasting motor.

Any tips for a newb TC3 owner? I am in the process of getting one and have heard that they are very brittle. Anything that can help against that? Also, everyone that I know that has one, the rear end hops on high traction surfaces. Anything to help there?

Oh, and Blue is NOT Better... Orange baby!
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Old 03-18-2002, 08:38 PM   #1464
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I love Novak ,they are one of da best R/c companys !!!

But to put down the Lrp....
Thats just plain slow....

The Lrp is twice as smooth as the Novak.

The Lrp is the most durable....

If yea got a problem with a Lrp just go the Ae message board ..
or call Ae.
Billy Easton is the Lrp rep....


Fast speed control=`s a fast factory rep.....
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Old 03-18-2002, 08:47 PM   #1465
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Just letting him know about my experince with LRP....which was not the greatest. Owned 3 speedo controls by them and had to send two back because they were not functioning correctly. One didn't work strait out of the box, and the other would reset the settings in the middle of the heat. Plus the case on the LRP shattered in a hard hit with a nitro car during practice...not very durable if you ask me. My Novaks is much smoother than my LRP was.

Maybe its just me, or maybe its the weather here in Memphis, TN, because EVERYONE here has the same problem with LRP. No-one runs them here. All TEN of the A-main drivers run a cyclone.

I have no more problems with LRP....because I no longer use them, so a call to AE is unnecssary . I love AE....but not their speed controls...
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Old 03-19-2002, 06:48 AM   #1466
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Customer Service is 2nd to none. Great quality, real reliable and has been the leading Manufacturer of ESC for some time.

I highly recommend their products, you can't go wrong with a Novak ESC
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Old 03-19-2002, 07:11 AM   #1467
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Quote:
Originally posted by linger


Are you using the plastic or graphite hex's? If you are, that could be the problem. Over time, the plastic/graphite hexes will compress at the pin and the flange will press up against the bearing. Both Yokomo and Associated make aluminum hexes that will permanently fix this. I can't make my axles bind no matter how hard I tighten the nut.

Concerning the steering blocks. Are the threads on the ball stud clean? When you strip out the carrier, the ball stud "grabs" a bunch of material between the threads. When you try to thread another hole with that ball stud, it will tend to strip the hole.
I have the Yokomo hexs. I guess I'll just have to take a closer look and see if I can tell exaclty what is causing the binding. As for the ball stud, I try and clean the threads when I put it back in, but I guess I should just try a new ball stud as well.

Oh well....back to the workbench...

Thanks,

Brian
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Old 03-19-2002, 09:05 AM   #1468
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schuie Driver
Hey for those of you guys that run mod......are you using the lightweight outdrives from Associated? If so, how are you setting your diffs? Seems like I can't get mine to stay consistant. Either they are too tight which makes the car feel funny when I'm driving it or they are too loose and I run the risk of melting them.
Schuie Driver - I completely agree. Set it too tight and the car has trouble turning. Set it too loose and you cook a diff. I'm running the standard associated steel diff. It feels much more consistent in mod and it lasts forever.
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Old 03-19-2002, 11:00 AM   #1469
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schui,,, The plastic is no worst or better than steel...
This go`s for the diff...

The steel outdrives are more durable, but the diff is da same...

I always set the diffs on the tight side, run the car a few packs then readjust....This sould give you a diff that don`t slip...
if it slips then you gona rebuild sooner than normal....
And like I said ,mod horse power & a bad landing is gona make even the best diff to slip....

Stock lasts longer cus the power is not enought to slip a tight diff....
When running mod you sould be checking the diffs every other run or so....

The steel is real good for mod ,but the plastic is da fastest!!
especially in stock...
I reconmend installing pin cushions on the dogbones...
These are alot easier on the plastic outdrives ,so you don`t wear um out so fast...
If you already have installed the Ae plastic outdrives you have the best already....at $5.00 a set they are hard to beat....
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Old 03-19-2002, 01:27 PM   #1470
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where can I get some pin cushions for the d bones?
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