TC3 Forum
#1457
Tech Addict
Thanks for the tip on the heatsink. The extra one that covers the vent holes weighs 12 grams approx. Not running it should bring my car closer to the weight limit.
#1458
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Hey for those of you guys that run mod......are you using the lightweight outdrives from Associated? If so, how are you setting your diffs? Seems like I can't get mine to stay consistant. Either they are too tight which makes the car feel funny when I'm driving it or they are too loose and I run the risk of melting them.
#1459
Schuie,, welcome to mod...
The extra horse power combine with a few bad landing`s from crashing will cus the diffs to slip,this causes extra wear & tear....
Thus more rebuilds...
You sould set the diffs tight & break them end with a few packs...
Reset after they loosen up...
The extra horse power combine with a few bad landing`s from crashing will cus the diffs to slip,this causes extra wear & tear....
Thus more rebuilds...
You sould set the diffs tight & break them end with a few packs...
Reset after they loosen up...
#1461
Tech Initiate
help
If i get a TC3 I will Probably get One of the following esc
1. Novak TC2
2. LRP IPC 7.1
3. LRP IPC SR
I will be racing on carpet, stock, but later I will move up to mod. The only thing is that my LHS owner says that Novaks are much more dependable and dont break as often. But I really want one of the IPC ones because they supply more amps. Can I use the 7.1 on a stock motor for now? Or will I have to use the SR? Are the LRP less dependable and more problem prone? Will the more amps help much? Please help me because I am kind of new to electric cars so I am totally lost.
1. Novak TC2
2. LRP IPC 7.1
3. LRP IPC SR
I will be racing on carpet, stock, but later I will move up to mod. The only thing is that my LHS owner says that Novaks are much more dependable and dont break as often. But I really want one of the IPC ones because they supply more amps. Can I use the 7.1 on a stock motor for now? Or will I have to use the SR? Are the LRP less dependable and more problem prone? Will the more amps help much? Please help me because I am kind of new to electric cars so I am totally lost.
#1462
Tech Master
TC2. I've owned LRP and they are no where near the quality of Novak is. When I had a LRP I was always a lap off the pace...no I'm one of the guys that sets the pace with the Novak. Novaks customers service is the best out there too. I had a friend that bought a inoperable TC2 from someone for $5, and he sent it to Novak with a $40 service charge to fix it, and they sent him a brand new one. I had to send a LRP back...and it was hassel. Got for the TC2, you won't regret it .
#1463
Another thing you can do to help that heatsink out is to use some thermal grease between the heatsink and the motor. Even without the vent holes, the heatsink is over 20 degrees hotter than the motor. Whereas without the grease, the temp was about 5 different. Keep that in mind as well. The little bit of goop that is on the motor is a small price to pay for a cooler, longer lasting motor.
Any tips for a newb TC3 owner? I am in the process of getting one and have heard that they are very brittle. Anything that can help against that? Also, everyone that I know that has one, the rear end hops on high traction surfaces. Anything to help there?
Oh, and Blue is NOT Better... Orange baby!
Any tips for a newb TC3 owner? I am in the process of getting one and have heard that they are very brittle. Anything that can help against that? Also, everyone that I know that has one, the rear end hops on high traction surfaces. Anything to help there?
Oh, and Blue is NOT Better... Orange baby!
#1464
I love Novak ,they are one of da best R/c companys !!!
But to put down the Lrp....
Thats just plain slow....
The Lrp is twice as smooth as the Novak.
The Lrp is the most durable....
If yea got a problem with a Lrp just go the Ae message board ..
or call Ae.
Billy Easton is the Lrp rep....
Fast speed control=`s a fast factory rep.....
But to put down the Lrp....
Thats just plain slow....
The Lrp is twice as smooth as the Novak.
The Lrp is the most durable....
If yea got a problem with a Lrp just go the Ae message board ..
or call Ae.
Billy Easton is the Lrp rep....
Fast speed control=`s a fast factory rep.....
#1465
Tech Master
Just letting him know about my experince with LRP....which was not the greatest. Owned 3 speedo controls by them and had to send two back because they were not functioning correctly. One didn't work strait out of the box, and the other would reset the settings in the middle of the heat. Plus the case on the LRP shattered in a hard hit with a nitro car during practice...not very durable if you ask me. My Novaks is much smoother than my LRP was.
Maybe its just me, or maybe its the weather here in Memphis, TN, because EVERYONE here has the same problem with LRP. No-one runs them here. All TEN of the A-main drivers run a cyclone.
I have no more problems with LRP....because I no longer use them, so a call to AE is unnecssary . I love AE....but not their speed controls...
Maybe its just me, or maybe its the weather here in Memphis, TN, because EVERYONE here has the same problem with LRP. No-one runs them here. All TEN of the A-main drivers run a cyclone.
I have no more problems with LRP....because I no longer use them, so a call to AE is unnecssary . I love AE....but not their speed controls...
#1466
Regional Moderator
NOVAK
Customer Service is 2nd to none. Great quality, real reliable and has been the leading Manufacturer of ESC for some time.
I highly recommend their products, you can't go wrong with a Novak ESC
I highly recommend their products, you can't go wrong with a Novak ESC
#1467
Tech Rookie
Originally posted by linger
Are you using the plastic or graphite hex's? If you are, that could be the problem. Over time, the plastic/graphite hexes will compress at the pin and the flange will press up against the bearing. Both Yokomo and Associated make aluminum hexes that will permanently fix this. I can't make my axles bind no matter how hard I tighten the nut.
Concerning the steering blocks. Are the threads on the ball stud clean? When you strip out the carrier, the ball stud "grabs" a bunch of material between the threads. When you try to thread another hole with that ball stud, it will tend to strip the hole.
Are you using the plastic or graphite hex's? If you are, that could be the problem. Over time, the plastic/graphite hexes will compress at the pin and the flange will press up against the bearing. Both Yokomo and Associated make aluminum hexes that will permanently fix this. I can't make my axles bind no matter how hard I tighten the nut.
Concerning the steering blocks. Are the threads on the ball stud clean? When you strip out the carrier, the ball stud "grabs" a bunch of material between the threads. When you try to thread another hole with that ball stud, it will tend to strip the hole.
Oh well....back to the workbench...
Thanks,
Brian
#1468
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by Schuie Driver
Hey for those of you guys that run mod......are you using the lightweight outdrives from Associated? If so, how are you setting your diffs? Seems like I can't get mine to stay consistant. Either they are too tight which makes the car feel funny when I'm driving it or they are too loose and I run the risk of melting them.
Hey for those of you guys that run mod......are you using the lightweight outdrives from Associated? If so, how are you setting your diffs? Seems like I can't get mine to stay consistant. Either they are too tight which makes the car feel funny when I'm driving it or they are too loose and I run the risk of melting them.
#1469
schui,,, The plastic is no worst or better than steel...
This go`s for the diff...
The steel outdrives are more durable, but the diff is da same...
I always set the diffs on the tight side, run the car a few packs then readjust....This sould give you a diff that don`t slip...
if it slips then you gona rebuild sooner than normal....
And like I said ,mod horse power & a bad landing is gona make even the best diff to slip....
Stock lasts longer cus the power is not enought to slip a tight diff....
When running mod you sould be checking the diffs every other run or so....
The steel is real good for mod ,but the plastic is da fastest!!
especially in stock...
I reconmend installing pin cushions on the dogbones...
These are alot easier on the plastic outdrives ,so you don`t wear um out so fast...
If you already have installed the Ae plastic outdrives you have the best already....at $5.00 a set they are hard to beat....
This go`s for the diff...
The steel outdrives are more durable, but the diff is da same...
I always set the diffs on the tight side, run the car a few packs then readjust....This sould give you a diff that don`t slip...
if it slips then you gona rebuild sooner than normal....
And like I said ,mod horse power & a bad landing is gona make even the best diff to slip....
Stock lasts longer cus the power is not enought to slip a tight diff....
When running mod you sould be checking the diffs every other run or so....
The steel is real good for mod ,but the plastic is da fastest!!
especially in stock...
I reconmend installing pin cushions on the dogbones...
These are alot easier on the plastic outdrives ,so you don`t wear um out so fast...
If you already have installed the Ae plastic outdrives you have the best already....at $5.00 a set they are hard to beat....
#1470
Regional Moderator
where can I get some pin cushions for the d bones?