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Old 03-17-2002, 04:52 AM   #1441
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Quote:
Originally posted by Porsche
I am runnigna 9*2 fantom motor. What should my gear ratio be??
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for my 9 turn orion chrome, i use 64 pitch 100t spur, 31t pinion. our track has a pretty long straight and fast corners, lap times are about 20-21 sec.
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Old 03-17-2002, 12:11 PM   #1442
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Somebody else was making the aluminum servo mounts.

Check this out.
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File Type: jpg rgt24.jpg (7.2 KB, 159 views)
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Old 03-17-2002, 04:07 PM   #1443
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just use the plastic ones with some thread lock and maybe add some shoogoo on the bottom, that's what I did and that thing is no moving, at all.

Those Alum ones do look cool though
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Old 03-17-2002, 04:30 PM   #1444
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RPM makes some good servo mounting blocks. They need trimmed at the edges slightly but because they are nylon you can trim so your servo is very flush on the chassis lowering your CG as low as possible. I find the stock mounts raise it up slightly.
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Old 03-17-2002, 07:52 PM   #1445
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WHo makes those servo mounts?

Quote:
Originally posted by rcruv
Somebody else was making the aluminum servo mounts.

Check this out.
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Old 03-17-2002, 08:04 PM   #1446
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You can allso place x-ray sevo mounts in the TC3.It fits perfect and it gives a low CG.And it's allso a good solid mount.Not cheap made plastics.
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Old 03-17-2002, 08:16 PM   #1447
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hard Jokur
WHo makes those servo mounts?

GPM racing makes them.
I found it here.

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item...=279&car_id=27

I never bought anything from here so I don't know if they are reliable.

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Old 03-17-2002, 10:40 PM   #1448
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RCRUV > So you like the Paragon? That stuff rocks at SoCal, I cant understand how you ran there without. What tires were you using and inserts?
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Old 03-18-2002, 12:45 AM   #1449
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Quote:
Originally posted by 3D
You can allso place x-ray sevo mounts in the TC3.It fits perfect and it gives a low CG.And it's allso a good solid mount.Not cheap made plastics.
Are x-ray servo mounts aluminum or other material?


I banged up TC3 pretty bad so many times that the plastic ones just don't work for me.

wolfeman09 > Yes, Paragon works like a glue on the track. Thanks for the tip. I checked the tires and surface of tires are smoother now like new tires. Small scratches and burnt marks are all disappeared.

BTW, I almost felt that I had too much traction.
Maybe I need to refill the shocks or go for blue/red springs? Here goes another night.
How often do you guys rebuild composite shocks?
They seem to soften out after a couple of weeks.

I use newer tires out of 2 sets of tires I have for the race. Pit shimizu 27 and jb yellow (medium) for take off. I think I wanna try take off 32 and echo high traction medium or thin medium next time I buy new tires. They look cool.
Have you tried them? Do they work?

I found out that one of the bearings supporting input shaft gone bad and aluminum input shaft is shaved off where that bearing's running. I had a rubber seal off oneside of that bearing because I thought it's safe as it was facing inside but the load was too much to handle, I guess. Or the crashes took care of it.

I put in my trusted cheap grease filled duratrax bearing and it works ok for now.
They are maybe slower but I think they take the beating better till I learn to drive and don't crash too often.

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Old 03-18-2002, 09:39 AM   #1450
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Sorry...was away for the weekend.

Blue heatsink. Really (I hope no one for AE is reading this ), the best heat sink (if yer gonna use one) is a regular un-anodized piece of alum. That dissipates heat the best. And, we've found that running the heat sink covers up the vents that help keep the motor cool. You CAN run a full heat sink if you:

1) Get the one that has the material removed to allow the vents to breathe.

2) Dremel the existing one to allow the vents to breathe.

I actually don't run one at all anymore. I'm too lazy to dremel the one I have and not interested in running around looking for the other one!

Oh well.
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Old 03-18-2002, 10:06 AM   #1451
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
Sorry...was away for the weekend.
Tony, check my last 'weird idea'.... use the steel screws for the underside of the chassis.

My car was too much underweight and needed almost 70grams of lead. I figured that installing the ugly steel screws on the underside of the chasis can work better than having to carry lead. For lowering the CG works.

This weekend I tested foams. My god! I needed to tighten all the car. Cooper fronts/Reds read 70wt oils and some camber at the wheels (no traction compound). Next days I'll test purple (F) / Magenta (R)... Greens were too soft and made some nasty traction rolls.
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Old 03-18-2002, 11:03 AM   #1452
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Thanks Tony....
You da man !!!
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Old 03-18-2002, 04:53 PM   #1453
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Does anyone know what pages some good pictures of the tc3 are?
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Old 03-18-2002, 05:04 PM   #1454
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Bearing Spacer help.....

I have the bearing spacers in but it still seems that when I tighten the nuts (in the front) it causes binding, but if I back off just a bit the wheels seems loose. I don't have this problem in the rear.

Any ideas?

Also, anyone one else have problems with the steering blocks stripping out? No matter how careful I am, it seems I always strip the threads when I put the ball stud in on the top....especially the graphite ones.

I go through them so fast, but I've got a stock pile of the rear hub carriers since they come packaged together!
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Old 03-18-2002, 05:24 PM   #1455
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Quote:
Originally posted by byoshino
Bearing Spacer help.....

I have the bearing spacers in but it still seems that when I tighten the nuts (in the front) it causes binding, but if I back off just a bit the wheels seems loose. I don't have this problem in the rear.

Any ideas?

Also, anyone one else have problems with the steering blocks stripping out? No matter how careful I am, it seems I always strip the threads when I put the ball stud in on the top....especially the graphite ones.

I go through them so fast, but I've got a stock pile of the rear hub carriers since they come packaged together!
Are you using the plastic or graphite hex's? If you are, that could be the problem. Over time, the plastic/graphite hexes will compress at the pin and the flange will press up against the bearing. Both Yokomo and Associated make aluminum hexes that will permanently fix this. I can't make my axles bind no matter how hard I tighten the nut.

Concerning the steering blocks. Are the threads on the ball stud clean? When you strip out the carrier, the ball stud "grabs" a bunch of material between the threads. When you try to thread another hole with that ball stud, it will tend to strip the hole.
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