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Old 03-15-2002, 01:40 PM   #1426
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Default CAstle Setups

Just curious... any of ya running at Castle??

if you are. what is your setup? for stock, for mod?
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Old 03-15-2002, 01:51 PM   #1427
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Boiling the rims is ALOT safer than putting them in an oven. 20 minutes of boiling should release the super glue.
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Old 03-15-2002, 05:06 PM   #1428
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I'm sure baking the rims isnt the safest......but it works.
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Old 03-15-2002, 07:37 PM   #1429
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I just gave da boiling method a try out...

Did nothing......

I`m not gona bake -um cus it the glue is still gona stay on the rim...

Thanks for helping & suggesting....

I will just grind the rim clean with a dremel,unless someone got a better way.....
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Old 03-15-2002, 08:53 PM   #1430
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Tony Phalen.......

I got a good question for yea.....

Last nite I ran the stock heat sink (blue) in modiflied once...
Next ,I ran the car car with out the stock heat sink....

I measured the temperature of the motor after running with & with out this part.
Was I surprise to find the motor was running alot cooler running with out the blue heat sink !!

Wazzz`s up with that ???
Maybe a piece of thermo tape to help conduct the heat could help?
For rite now I have stop running with this heat sink..
Who`s needs blue paperweight
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Old 03-15-2002, 09:02 PM   #1431
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wild Cherry
For rite now I have stop running with this heat sink..
Who`s needs blue paperweight
I lost it while I was practicing at the track. I couldn't find it anywhere on the track. I think a car running behind ate it up for a lunch.

I'm now running it without it, I too think it just doesn't heat up more than it would've been without it.

And it's a little drag and weight added inside.

Just my 2 cents.

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Old 03-16-2002, 01:51 AM   #1432
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wild Cherry
Tony Phalen.......


Was I surprise to find the motor was running alot cooler running with out the blue heat sink !!

I think that you have this problem because of the blue colour of the heatsink. Blue is a really good colour for reflecting heat, so the hotter your motor gets, then even MORE heat gets reflected back into it. If you take some fine sandpaper/other abrasive stuff to the underneath of the heatsink (the bit that contacts the motor) untill all the blue is gone it should work a lot better. Either that or run a black heatsink, but everyone likes blue in their TC3...
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Old 03-16-2002, 02:31 AM   #1433
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wild Cherry
I measured the temperature of the motor after running with & with out this part.
Was I surprise to find the motor was running alot cooler running with out the blue heat sink !!

Wazzz`s up with that ???
Maybe a piece of thermo tape to help conduct the heat could help?
For rite now I have stop running with this heat sink..
Who`s needs blue paperweight
Yep! I noticed this some time ago and the only piece that I've made a transplant from my Team to the Factory is the black piece that clamps the motor.

The blue ones in 'better' at eye-candy levels, but the black ones is better on thermal conductivity terms.

Since I need to put too much ballast on my car (almost 60gr to be legal) I'm thinking on starting to 'downgrade' the FTTC3 to a special series called 'Corse-R TC3'...

First step: send too far the blue motor clamp and install the black one. It does better their work getting heat and dissipating.
Second step: Change some 'eye-candy' blue screws for another more sturdier and 'worse looking' steel ones (only the ones that go on the underside of the chassis) to lower a little the Center of gravity.

This week I'll do the second step and see how much weight is gained and how much lead I lose from the car.
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Old 03-16-2002, 07:05 AM   #1434
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corse-R

Second step: Change some 'eye-candy' blue screws for another more sturdier and 'worse looking' steel ones (only the ones that go on the underside of the chassis) to lower a little the Center of gravity.
I think that's a good idea. I could lower the cg. I've never thought about it.
I already stripped one aluminum screw that's holding the bottom diff case. I guess I'll have to take it out somehow and go for the steel ones.

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Old 03-16-2002, 08:33 AM   #1435
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I chuck my steel screws in a dremel and polish them. I think polished steel looks better than colored alum.
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Old 03-16-2002, 09:04 AM   #1436
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcruv


I think that's a good idea. I could lower the cg. I've never thought about it.
Yep! but be sure to install the aluminium ones on the higher parts of the chassis. Remember that high speed at curves and high center of gravity aren't good friends (remember if you had seen one what's going with the Citroen 2CV on the turns).
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Old 03-16-2002, 10:01 AM   #1437
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I am runnigna 9*2 fantom motor. What should my gear ratio be??
Thanks
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Old 03-16-2002, 11:46 PM   #1438
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Wow, that IRS servo mount really works.

It's a bit pricey though.

Steering servo is firmly secured now removing twitches I had before.
I just wished if AE made aluminum servo mount so I didn't have to buy expensive IRS one.
I was going to put transponder in the front bumper like Al did.

It will be painful if I decided to cut the transponder mount portion of it.

Well, I lost transponder while racing today. I was running first and the second guy decided t-bone me pretty bad and ran away.
I won that heat though 'cuz the race director disregarded the time I wasted to get back to race.

Then I couldn't run the main because I lost the motor.

What a day.

I used Paragon and my TC3 was stuck on the track today.

A guy wanted to check my car if I changed anything.

TC3 is a solid car, very agile and punchy.

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Old 03-17-2002, 12:00 AM   #1439
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Thanks for the input on the IRS transponer/servo mount. What twitches did it take out? I was never sure what it would do for the car...and I had no money at the time I bought all the IRS stuff.

Transponder in the front works real well. Transponder didn't get knocked out like it did while on the side. Also I got tired of being beat by .06th of a second because another driver had his in the front . Hope it works good for you too .
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Old 03-17-2002, 12:07 AM   #1440
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Quote:
Originally posted by Modena AL
Thanks for the input on the IRS transponer/servo mount. What twitches did it take out? I was never sure what it would do for the car...and I had no money at the time I bought all the IRS stuff.

Transponder in the front works real well. Transponder didn't get knocked out like it did while on the side. Also I got tired of being beat by .06th of a second because another driver had his in the front . Hope it works good for you too .
The plastic servo mounts really didn't cut it.
It was little loose causing servo itself to move slightly when steering.

I'll definately try out the transponder in the front bumper.
Looks solid and it could shave off some time guess.
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