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Old 03-03-2002, 01:49 AM   #1276
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Default Re: Re: bearing help

Quote:
Originally posted by rcruv



I've never tried to take teflon seal off.
Should I chip it off bit by bit?

to take a teflon seal off you have to take the C-clip off. you can see it when you look at the bearing, its is a little ring going around the top of it with a gap. Where that gap is you put your xacto knife under it and try to pop it out. When it does come out it will shoot somewhere far away, so try to make it fire into yourself so you can find it .

then you use the exacto knife to GENTLY life the seal out.

thats all there is to it, and you can still reuse the seals.
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Old 03-03-2002, 06:26 AM   #1277
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Default rear toe in?

Alright, here's my problem...

A few days ago I was replacing my suspension with graphite ones (new pieces). After I was done, I noticed that the drivers side of the car had about 3.5 degrees of rear toe in, while the passenger side had about 2 degrees. I thought maybe the aluminum hub carriers I was using were bent, so I replaced them with graphite ones. Same problem. I checked the hinge pins, and they are all straight. I can't see anything obviously broken or worn out. Any suggestions? I'm using the R+3+2 rear block if that matters.

Also, someone told me about putting front arms on the rear with the front c-hubs, hub carriers, and such and attachign tie rods to them so you can adjust the rear toe in that way. Has anyone seen or done that? It looks like it will work, except I'm not sure where to attach the tie rods on the chassis.
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Old 03-03-2002, 06:30 AM   #1278
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Cosmo, have u checked the rear-front brace ? and all 4 pin (inner and outer) of rear suspension ?
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Old 03-03-2002, 06:59 AM   #1279
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I did that conversion on my first TC3, and I loved it...(that was back when they had rear hub problems). To mount the inner ball studs, just put them on the stock rear bumper about halfway up, and take a small piece of graphite/fiberglass about 1/4"x1/2" and back the studs with it for extra support. works great and to set toe on the rear just use an RPM chamber guage place it flat agianst the sides of the chassis, and use the tread-width to measure the toe....
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Old 03-03-2002, 07:27 AM   #1280
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Default Re: rear toe in?

Quote:
Originally posted by Cosmo
Alright, here's my problem...

A few days ago I was replacing my suspension with graphite ones (new pieces). After I was done, I noticed that the drivers side of the car had about 3.5 degrees of rear toe in, while the passenger side had about 2 degrees. I thought maybe the aluminum hub carriers I was using were bent, so I replaced them with graphite ones. Same problem. I checked the hinge pins, and they are all straight. I can't see anything obviously broken or worn out. Any suggestions? I'm using the R+3+2 rear block if that matters.

Also, someone told me about putting front arms on the rear with the front c-hubs, hub carriers, and such and attachign tie rods to them so you can adjust the rear toe in that way. Has anyone seen or done that? It looks like it will work, except I'm not sure where to attach the tie rods on the chassis.
Scroll down and look at TPhalen's response to airwide, I think that may answer your question.
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Old 03-03-2002, 11:49 AM   #1281
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Yeah, I saw Tony's response, but that doesn't help me. He says they are fixing the problem, but I assume it will be a few months at least until the parts are available. That won't help me now.

I checked all the parts that I know of to check. From what I can see all of them are in fine shape. No slop anywyere, or cracks or anything. All the hinge pins are straight. I assume it's just a flaw in the mold like Tony said. But we are racing this coming weekend, and I doubt I'll be able to get any updated parts before then. Of course, I may very well have been driving with the car like that for a while, sine I'm not sure which part is to blame, so it might not make any difference anyways. But since I know it's like that, the first time I spin out I'll be thinking "it's that rear toe-in that caused it..."
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Old 03-03-2002, 11:54 AM   #1282
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cosmo
Yeah, I saw Tony's response, but that doesn't help me. He says they are fixing the problem, but I assume it will be a few months at least until the parts are available. That won't help me now.
Cosmo:

I've suffered this and my solution is to replace the piece for an old that I had previously (minimum 6 months ago). If someone has the piece with that 'age' put them, it's ok. Maybe all the pieces from 6 months to nowadays should be considered 'flawed' anyone has the same problem and solved with 'more modern' pieces?

Another solution you can do is go to aftermarket parts and pick one made of aluminium from the manufacturer you better like.
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Old 03-03-2002, 12:11 PM   #1283
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I have aluminum ones now. Apprently the flaw is not in the hub carriers. Both the aluminum ones and the graphite ones had the same problem.
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Old 03-03-2002, 12:17 PM   #1284
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cosmo
I have aluminum ones now. Apprently the flaw is not in the hub carriers. Both the aluminum ones and the graphite ones had the same problem.
Nope, the problem goes from the A-arm brackets (those pieces that assemble the A-arms to the chassis) not from the hub carriers (change the two pieces and the problem is a matter of the past).
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Old 03-03-2002, 03:41 PM   #1285
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Corse-R - That thought crossed my mind too.
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Old 03-03-2002, 06:38 PM   #1286
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Just putting in the duratrax bearings and running them will free them up alot.

To find the diameter of a spur gear take the number of teeth and divide that by the pitch (48 or 64) and number that is the diamater of the gear measured midway up the teeth (this is the pitch diameter), then to find an outside diameter add the height of a tooth. This will tell you how much space you need to run a specific spur gear.
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Old 03-03-2002, 06:43 PM   #1287
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Default taking seals of your bearings

I just took the seals of my bearings this week. Man, that made such a difference. My car was smoother than it has been, and was way quicker. I swear by this now and I'm going to do it from now on....and I think all of you should too.
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Old 03-04-2002, 07:33 AM   #1288
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Rear Toe-In

Ok...I did fail to mention something about the rear toe-in....

When assembling the rear end, YOU MUST TAKE CARE ON HOW IT'S ASSEMBLED!!!! Everyone having this problem MAY be doing the same thing I did on my first kit....

1) Install the R block.

2) Slide the hinge pins through the arms and into the R block.

3) Now, here's the clincher....DO NOT SLIDE THE R3+2 (or whichever block you use) ONTO ONE HINGE PIN AND THE STRETCH IT OVER TO FIT THE OTHER!!!!!! This is where alot of people are elongating one hole to make it fit the other side, causing MORE toe in on one side of the car than the other.

To correctly fit this piece, you must place it near the rear of the car and push both arms toward the center of the car, thus, sliding BOTH hinge pins toward the center of the car, and this will make BOTH side flex slightly to fit the rear hinge pin mount. If you insert one hinge pin and flex it over to fit the other, you are drastically flexing ONE side, instead of slightly flexing both. Doing it this way WILL give you the correct amount of toe on each side.

The more toe, the more you will have to flex the INNER hinge pin mount (the R mount), so be careful. It is plastic, and it will elongate the hole if you stretch it too much.
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Old 03-04-2002, 07:40 AM   #1289
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Thanks TP!
I did it the wrong way, but I will rebuild my car tonight with a new R block and see if it will be better this time. Do you know if I have to change the R+2+2 block too?
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Old 03-04-2002, 07:45 AM   #1290
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Cool tip Tony. I cant remeber which way I was doing it but I will pay alot more attention now.
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