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Old 03-02-2002, 11:57 AM   #1261
dw
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the bearings are probably packed with grease as standard.
This will extend their life but add friction. You need to remove the seal if you want to remove the grease. It will require regular oiling then. I don't know what grade of bearing the duratrax are but grease should only be removed on high grade bearings as otherwise they will not last long.

Why do so many people say the tc3 breaks easily?
I've not had any impact breakage trouble apart from hingepins, foam tyres and the rubber sealed axle bearings.
Actually that's not quite true. I broke a fastrax one way and snapped the ball off the front wishbone trying to lever the antiroll bar off.
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Old 03-02-2002, 12:04 PM   #1262
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Default spur gear question

is anyone running a 64pitch spur on their TC3? i was wondering which spurs would fit & how large of one will fit before it tears carpet? i found some robinson spurs in 64p from 78tooth up.
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Old 03-02-2002, 12:53 PM   #1263
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most people use 100 or 104 tooth spurs in 64p
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Old 03-02-2002, 12:59 PM   #1264
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Default Re: tc3 guru needed

Quote:
Originally posted by maski
i'd just want to know what parts are commonly replaced or broken. with my yoke that has graphite steering blocks, the kingpin always loosen itself thus i end up with 4 pairs of kingpin gone. also, those dogbones wear faster and break (the blue one). can anyone tell me about their TC3?
Ummm, the wear of parts and/or breakage is quite different from a racer to another racer. The ballpark with your car is the next:

- Get your favourite kit (Racer, Team, Factory).
- Get the optional caster blocks (some people prefeer 2 degree other 4 degree, my pick is the 4 degree caster blocks) this depends on your track.
- For springs, get the blue and the red ones, maybe sometime you need to use the cooper spring.

- If you race on big tracks, can be wise to get the one-way.

As spare parts 'needed', maybe a set of A-arms and some shock towers (ever I break the rear, the front never I broke it).

Regarding blue CVD's: I use them and I change the front ones at each 50 or 60 packs (some of them lasted 100 packs) and put as spares (you never know when you need to use one of them). I use them with front diff and one-way with no problems.

I noticed that the last sets of blue CVD's are a little ticker than the previous. Someone has noticed this?
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Old 03-02-2002, 01:01 PM   #1265
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jack Smash
most people use 100 or 104 tooth spurs in 64p
My biggest 64p spur gear used on the tc3 is the 98 tooth spur. Maybe a range between 93t and 100t is acceptable. Some people report that the 104t is too big (my 93 and 95t spurs are most worn).
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Old 03-02-2002, 01:56 PM   #1266
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Default spur gear

95t and up would place me running some pretty big pinions, i was thinking of something like a 75t to 80t, this way i could hit my desired roll-out while making use of the pinions i already have (25t-38t)

i've spent the morning reading this tread from the beginning, you guys have been talking 'bout TC3s on here for a long time (i'm on page 30 of 43) the TC3 is new to me so all your info is helpful
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Old 03-02-2002, 05:20 PM   #1267
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Default bearing help

Ok what am I doing wrong I want to clean and lube my rubber sealed bearings but while using an exacto knife all I can do is get tiny pieces of rubber out. How do you remove the seals?

Along with that I am doing a whole rebuild still waiting for graphite chassis but it should be here monday I hope.
got new parts: lite diffs (from steel) IRS input shatfs, blue alu drive cups (eye candy), blue screw kit (more eye candy), threaded shocks (keep loosing prelload clips) ti turn buckles, RRP spur gear, hitec digital servo--127 oz./9.2 kg and .08 sec

Any tips on building the lite drives? Other than the manual of course.

hopefully this can take my old (1999/2000?) abused used racer that was previously used mainly for rally I think into a carpet monster!
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Old 03-02-2002, 05:27 PM   #1268
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Default course r

Looks like that off road track is just about done at snetterton last time I was there! Just waiting for the weather to get a bit better b4 I start to race there..... I know what you are thinking this is good weather for England and that I am a fair weathe racer but being out in 4deg c/40 deg f and wet is not my idea of fun.
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Old 03-02-2002, 05:54 PM   #1269
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Default Re: spur gear question

Quote:
Originally posted by hyperformance
is anyone running a 64pitch spur on their TC3? i was wondering which spurs would fit & how large of one will fit before it tears carpet? i found some robinson spurs in 64p from 78tooth up.
i raced mod (9x2 and 9x3) with 31-32/100T (64p). i also tried 98T and 104T, but still like 100T spur the most.
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Old 03-02-2002, 08:26 PM   #1270
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Default i'll be running a stock motor

also i heard the 104t could drag the carpet, will the smaller spurs (75-80t) fit well enough to contact the pinion? i'm assuming a 72t 48p & a 72t 64p would be similiar in size. one hand tells me the 64p would be smalerl cause the teeth are closer, the other hand says they'd be the same cause the profile of the teeth would be different. this confuses me only because i've only dealt with 64p gears.
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Old 03-02-2002, 09:17 PM   #1271
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Duratrax bearings have more grease then any other bearing I have ever used. Degrease them and use some tribo in there. They are good bearings, and will last you a long time for that price.
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Old 03-02-2002, 10:32 PM   #1272
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Default TC3 Spur

I run 96 and 100 tooth 64 pitch on a regular basis, no problem with clearances. You are limited to what size pinion you can use because of getting the proper mesh. 37/100 is a tight fit, the motor mount won't rotate far enough to get a good mesh with a little back lash.
A 104 tooth, 64 pitch would fit except that the pinion would be smaller than 37, might work if you are running mod.
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Old 03-03-2002, 12:00 AM   #1273
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Default Re: bearing help

Quote:
Originally posted by Buda
Ok what am I doing wrong I want to clean and lube my rubber sealed bearings but while using an exacto knife all I can do is get tiny pieces of rubber out. How do you remove the seals?

Along with that I am doing a whole rebuild still waiting for graphite chassis but it should be here monday I hope.
got new parts: lite diffs (from steel) IRS input shatfs, blue alu drive cups (eye candy), blue screw kit (more eye candy), threaded shocks (keep loosing prelload clips) ti turn buckles, RRP spur gear, hitec digital servo--127 oz./9.2 kg and .08 sec

Any tips on building the lite drives? Other than the manual of course.

hopefully this can take my old (1999/2000?) abused used racer that was previously used mainly for rally I think into a carpet monster!
I use 2 ways.
When I take it off of diff bearings I try to put the tip of knife between seal and the outter bearing metal and push and take it out.

For smaller bearings like axle bearings I cut the rubber and slowly take the rubber off with my finger trying not to disconnect the rubber then the seal comes off in the end.

I took off all inside seals except the outside axle bearings.
Really makes difference.

I'm using duratrax bearings only for outside axle bearings they seem to be tougher than rubber sealed ones.

I also noticed lots of grease in the bearings.
I'll just run them through several packs and see if what happens.

I've never tried to take teflon seal off.
Should I chip it off bit by bit?

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Old 03-03-2002, 12:06 AM   #1274
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Default Re: course r

Quote:
Originally posted by Buda
Looks like that off road track is just about done at snetterton last time I was there! Just waiting for the weather to get a bit better b4 I start to race there..... I know what you are thinking this is good weather for England and that I am a fair weathe racer but being out in 4deg c/40 deg f and wet is not my idea of fun.
Uhm....the idea of good wheater isn't the same everywhere. At Reedy Intl. some people local to the track said me that the temp that we had (something between 13C/55F and 19/66F, cloudy and a little sunny the sunday at May) was a good wheather.... BRRRRR!!!!

Feb/March at Norwich county can be quite cool. I'm accustomed to higher temps on that part of the year.

How is the surface? clay, grass? on the website isn't any photo, yet...
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Old 03-03-2002, 12:10 AM   #1275
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Thanks guys for setup receommendations.

I finally put in F-0 mount with 2 block carrier and 3-0 rear mount.

Made my car run very smooth at the turns.
I also put shock in most inside holes.

And gold front, silver rear.
F/R anti roll bars.

With that setup I ran my first ever race.
Novice but I got in A main.


Guess now I have to learn how to drive faster and maintain motor, batteries.

How do you charge the batteries before the race guys?
Should I trickle charge 3000HVs or repeak them right before the race?
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