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Old 02-27-2002, 05:32 PM   #1246
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Im going to be running on carpet with rubber tires in Stockton, CA in a couple of weeks and need a good starting point setup. Anyone care to help?
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Old 02-27-2002, 06:13 PM   #1247
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Quote:
Originally posted by over gear
I'll be back with my TC3 equipt with front and rear oneway diffs
what happens to your car when you put a oneway in the rear?
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Old 02-27-2002, 08:18 PM   #1248
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'Sup guys?

Put a new BRP rear bumper http://brpracing.com/6235.html on my TC3.

This things keeps the rear wheels planted - had to move up from silvers to golds in the back to get rid of the push.

Are these ROAR legal?

Thanks,

YJ
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Old 02-28-2002, 03:30 AM   #1249
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Default uneven rear toe-in

My last two cars have both had uneven rear toe-in. The right rear wheel allways have .5 degrees less toe-in than it's supposed to have.

have anyone else had this problem?

I'm thinking about trying the XXX-S hubs to solve the problem and to get more roll center configurations.
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Old 02-28-2002, 06:12 AM   #1250
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hahahah Ling...

Anytime you want a spanking, I'm here for ya!!! Wait, that didn't sound right

It does take some time to get the drivetrain THAT free. The purpose is, of course, less drag. In Modified racing, it may not be ALL that important. In stock racing, though, it will make up for the weak motor or batteries. Every little bit helps in stock...

over gear: I would suggest a dremel, but you must be REAL careful. You need to make sure that you only take off small, EVEN amounts. UNEVEN amounts will result in a shifted bearing leading to, well, more drag. I mostly use an exacto and just trip away a little at a time, check the diff fitment, trim away a little more, check fitment, etc. It sounds like a lot of work, and can be, but it will pay off in the end. I would suggest just doing it to a SPARE diff case, in case you mess up...

Modena: The ol' one-way in the rear trick. Well, funny you say that because we actually tried it, but with a twist. Since we have access to unassembled one-ways (including the bearings), we had a one-way assembled with the bearings installed BACKWARD! This will allow the rear wheels to spin like the fronts...otherwise, the one way would be backward in the rear diff. (Did everyone catch that???) The result was a car that pushed BIG TIME going into turns, and was loose as sh*t coming out!!! Not a good thing. I wouldn't suggest it. Might be good for a land speed car...

Yokomojo: Sorta like a rear diffuser on F1 cars. I don't see why it wouldn't be legal (it's not actually a rear diffuser), but you might want to check...

Airwide: Yes, that has been a problem. It's in the tool that makes the hubs. After pumping out hundreds of thousands of hubs, the tool is becoming a bit finiky and doing this. They are aware and are fixing it.
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Old 02-28-2002, 06:49 AM   #1251
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Default Re: uneven rear toe-in

Quote:
Originally posted by Airwide
My last two cars have both had uneven rear toe-in. The right rear wheel allways have .5 degrees less toe-in than it's supposed to have.

have anyone else had this problem?
Airwide:

I noticed this when I assembled the last TC3 (January). Please go back a little and previous to the last 'flame' (aftermarket pieces) I have a post regarding some quite simmilar to this (this post should be about 20th of January approximate).

On that post I'ask to tony or greg to check with the engineering guys this little flaw that I've discovered on my last FTTC3.

I changed the pieces for some that I have and now my tc3 has the true 3 degree toe-in on rear. Maybe some time to check another time the injection molds.
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Old 02-28-2002, 06:51 AM   #1252
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TPhalen: Good thinking on the one way bearings. I wouldn't have thought of that and would have messed my car up bad . I might give the oneway in the rear a try when I get my 18 cell TC3 running .
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Old 02-28-2002, 07:30 AM   #1253
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Mo' Powa....
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Old 03-01-2002, 01:08 AM   #1254
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Well I`m quite please with my last project...
Got the car to spin real good .....
The new plastic outdrives & dogbones I added really help out as well..... ( lighting up the drive train )

The next question I need help with is about the graphite conversion kit from Ae....

Right now my car`s weight is only 6 grams over the limit.
Everyone I talk to say`s the graphite is faster cus its lighter....

Now , with graphite you will have to add weight rite ? to meet the weight limit ....

So how come graphite is faster if the car weights the same?

Thanks again !!!
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Old 03-01-2002, 02:08 AM   #1255
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wild Cherry
The next question I need help with is about the graphite conversion kit from Ae....

Right now my car`s weight is only 6 grams over the limit.
Everyone I talk to say`s the graphite is faster cus its lighter....

Now , with graphite you will have to add weight rite ? to meet the weight limit ....

So how come graphite is faster if the car weights the same?
Graphite isn't faster, is lighter (and more prone to break if you're a like to slam the walls (they don't move and can really hurt your car) . Thus with less weight your HP/weight ratio is better up to the weight limit. Right now my car ready to run weights 1415grams (w/o transponder) and I need to add up to 90 grams of ballast to be legal (ever I add a little more, is really pissing to lost your best heat by having a car that weights 1498grams (it happened to me )).

This 90 grams of ballast I put where I want to help to dial my car (really I don't move the weights because I've accustomed to a weight distribution).

Reducing the weight on the transmision is wise, less weight rotating, means a faster throttle response (good move with the plastic diffs and plastic CVD's, the last ones don't warp and break) maybe your next movement is changing the input shafts for a lighter ones, like IRS.
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Old 03-02-2002, 07:42 AM   #1256
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Default tc3 guru needed

hi, i have been running yoke for a yr now and i want to try my luck on other kit. i'd just want to know what parts are commonly replaced or broken. with my yoke that has graphite steering blocks, the kingpin always loosen itself thus i end up with 4 pairs of kingpin gone. also, those dogbones wear faster and break (the blue one). can anyone tell me about their TC3?
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Old 03-02-2002, 08:01 AM   #1257
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Whichever kit you get I would put steel CVD's in the front, the aluminum ones bend and the plastic will break up front. Other than that, maybe extra front hub carriers and castor blocks.
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Old 03-02-2002, 09:28 AM   #1258
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In my case, I break rear hub carrier very easy and axle ball bearings when it hit the wall sideways.
I also bent one steel front axle hinge pin for a month of driving it.

Buy BRP wide bumper and nerf wings.
They will save lots of parts.

I have never broken turnbuckles, front carriers, a arms, dog bones yet which many peple say easily breakable.

Composite outdrives wear fast. I wonder dogbones with pin cushion solve the problem.

Just my 2 cents
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Old 03-02-2002, 09:35 AM   #1259
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My duratrax teflon sealed ball bearings arrived.

They are smooth but have lots of friction. Maybe 'cuz they weren't broken in yet? Or Associated ones are smoother?
My rubber sealed bearings with one seal off run much much smoother.

I'll just put one in to replace my axle bearing I crushed to see how much heat it will take.

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Old 03-02-2002, 09:42 AM   #1260
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My duratrax teflon sealed ball bearings arrived.

They are smooth but have lots of friction. Maybe 'cuz they weren't broken in yet? Or Associated ones are smoother?
My rubber sealed bearings with one seal off run much much smoother.

I'll just put one in to replace my axle bearing I crushed to see how much heat it will take.

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