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Old 02-25-2002, 06:42 AM   #1201
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Quote:
Originally posted by blueboy
Has anyone noticed that if you swap the rear hub carriers/uprights/whatever round (put left upright on right wishbone etc) then you can get 0 degrees toe in?
They don't tell you that in the manual do they, its just "yeah, buy this bit, then this bit, then this bit..."
what are u going to do with 0-degree toe-in in the rear ???
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Old 02-25-2002, 06:48 AM   #1202
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Quote:
Originally posted by ernestf


what are u going to do with 0-degree toe-in in the rear ???
I think you would use it if you were going to do insane speed runs or something....

I know that they only had 1 degree of toe-in when they got that TC3 up to 96 or whatever mph.
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Old 02-25-2002, 06:48 AM   #1203
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Less toe-in = less scrubbed speed = bye bye!
You may lose a bit of stability under acceleration, but when your running on carpet then grip and stability is not really an issue.
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Old 02-25-2002, 07:54 AM   #1204
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That would be way too little toe-in. Even the guys that run the Losi rear hub carriers that remove a degree of toe-in run the 3 deg rear block.
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Old 02-25-2002, 08:00 AM   #1205
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We run on a tight carpet track with either foams or Schumacher mini pins (I personally run pins) so it helps to lose a little bit of bite in the corners.
Im just sayin what works for me - everyone drives different, right?
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Old 02-25-2002, 08:04 AM   #1206
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Default Wheel Rubbing

I have just put together my ft-tc3 and when I put on my jaco 28mm purple foams (the ones that come pre-mounted on wheels) on the rear, the plastic ball cup on the hub occasionally drags on the inside of the wheel. Has anyone else had this issue? I am thinking that the narrower 24mm wheels might cure the issue, or smaller ball cups on the hubs. Any suggestions would be great for a tc3 newbie :-)

Also I am confused about tire width's... which width's are actually legal in bigger races?
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Old 02-25-2002, 08:07 AM   #1207
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i have had the same problem with my FT, and all Standard Offset wheels. Just run a hobby knife around the inside edge of the wheel and that should fix it up.
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Old 02-25-2002, 10:39 AM   #1208
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Default 1 way with foams

pat try this:

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...oams_setup.pdf
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Old 02-25-2002, 01:54 PM   #1209
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Interesting I have that exact same setup sheet that has diff checked. If you look at it you can see its an older setup sheet because they list shock limiters instead of droop settings.

If you look in the setups that have won big races with foams on carpet nobody used a oneway.
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Old 02-25-2002, 02:43 PM   #1210
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Quote:
Originally posted by blueboy
i have had the same problem with my FT, and all Standard Offset wheels. Just run a hobby knife around the inside edge of the wheel and that should fix it up.
I had the same problem. I was running Pro Line capped tires, so this may or may not work. Luckily where I was racing there was plenty of traction so I could move the camber link to the inside hole on the hub carrier and that fixed the problem. On tracks where I ran the link in the outside hole, since I usually run RPM ball ends, I switched to stock Associated ball ends which were smaller and that seemed to work. Also, HPI makes some wheel spacers that are about 1mm thick. I tried those on my car and they wheels cleared just enough. Even with the spacers my car still was under 190mm wide on the tech board.
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Old 02-26-2002, 04:02 AM   #1211
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pat, most of us don't race at big races very often.
My local club with carpet only used about 6 hours a week with a variable track layout has a lot less rubber on it than you would get at a big race and consequently has much less grip. You can grip roll a car on greens but you have to try very hard to do it and be running quite large tyres. On blues there isn't enough grip to get the lap times. Go to the permanent track a couple of hours down the road, which is used a lot more and you will suffer with grip roll even with blues. That is i think the only permanent indoor track in the country though and a rare exception.
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Old 02-26-2002, 07:58 AM   #1212
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Quote:
Originally posted by blueboy
Has anyone noticed that if you swap the rear hub carriers/uprights/whatever round (put left upright on right wishbone etc) then you can get 0 degrees toe in?
They don't tell you that in the manual do they, its just "yeah, buy this bit, then this bit, then this bit..."
The hub carriers should be 0 degrees, so it doesn't matter which way you mount them. Besides, how do you know which one is the left and the right hub?
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Old 02-26-2002, 08:07 AM   #1213
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I was wondering that too. I think if you the front arms around mount them in the rear backwards you will get 1 degree of toe-in. All you have to do then is find a suspension mount ro something that will take away 1 degee of toe-in and you will get 0 degree toe-in.
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Old 02-26-2002, 08:20 AM   #1214
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So does this mean it's only my kit that does this?
I have swapped the wishbones and uprights for blue aluminium versions from Fastrax (for the added strength) and I didn't notice that the rear toe had been affected until one of the guys at my club pointed it out. I thought it was just a bent hingepin or something and replaced everything that it could be but there was still a lack of toe in. As a final effort in desperation i swapped the uprights over - even though i thought they were the same - and then there was 3 degrees!?
I've just checked the parts and they don't seem to be marked anywhere, but maybe the Fastrax alu parts are not the same shape as the kit pieces?
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Old 02-26-2002, 08:33 AM   #1215
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Quote:
Originally posted by blueboy
So does this mean it's only my kit that does this?
I have swapped the wishbones and uprights for blue aluminium versions from Fastrax (for the added strength) and I didn't notice that the rear toe had been affected until one of the guys at my club pointed it out. I thought it was just a bent hingepin or something and replaced everything that it could be but there was still a lack of toe in. As a final effort in desperation i swapped the uprights over - even though i thought they were the same - and then there was 3 degrees!?
I've just checked the parts and they don't seem to be marked anywhere, but maybe the Fastrax alu parts are not the same shape as the kit pieces?
I think you just have discovered the problem with aluminum parts. They bend in crashes.
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