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Old 04-13-2015, 08:21 PM   #12106
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Any good setups for low to med grip carpet setups with blinky 17.5 on 24r sorex tires?
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Old 04-14-2015, 09:27 PM   #12107
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Question for the tc3 experts. I run a factory team car with the aluminum cvds and have a spool that I would like to try. Will the aluminum cvds hold up to it? And what can I expect from this if I do run it? Should my setup be changed if I run it? I need to find some red springs for the front, as I am running silver and need to go up in stiffness now. Had some guys say to run reds all around, is this good advise? Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:13 AM   #12108
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Aluminum universal joint + spool: you will ovalize the holes in the bone in like 10 minutes of use. They kinda work like this but you will still bend them easy on a tap. As for your spool, anything else than steel is useless. Yeah, you can manage to make an aluminum one work by putting blades on the bone pins, blah-blah... don't go there.

What you want is steel bones with a "slipper" steel spool, ie a spool where the outdrives are solid under normal use but can slip a bit when under excessive twisting force.

You didn't mention if you were on carpet or asphalt ? Anyway I'll let the setup gurus answer regarding the setup changes you might require. Maybe a bit more travel (lower droop value) at the rear to help with corner entry ? 6F-4R is always a good place to start on a TC3 IMHO.

Springs: in between silver and red you have the blue and the gold springs, in that order. Blue F / sliver R or blue-blue always treated me right on carpet. That is with the R shock tower at the front, and the outside position on the arms, both F and R.

Red-red... I have used it once with what I found were crazy good results, but that was with very, very hard tires on carpet. To this day I remember my buddy watching me run this setup for 7 minutes at what seemed like mach 3, no mistake or anything, then shaking his head and commenting: " ... that was ROBOTIC." Best compliment ever, seriously. ^^ But I digress.

Look up setup sheets on Petitrc.com and try to figure out the common denominator between them. For instance, the last setups before the TC4 always feature the R shock tower at the front, and you'll never find an anti-roll bar on one end only but always none or both, etc.

HTH

Oh, last tip: never pay attention to what bertrandsv87 says. Ever
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:16 AM   #12109
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And ditch the Hitec servo. You'll thank me. Sanwa has a 65$ low-profile, I wouldn't look any further, and certainly not buy a sav÷x at that price.
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:21 AM   #12110
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double post
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:06 PM   #12111
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Hi Guys,

Just a newbie question. Can the TC3 handle 13.5t boosted? What is the best ratio for this motor? running on parking lot track.
Any advise would be appriciated
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:51 AM   #12112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humyu View Post
Hi Guys,

Just a newbie question. Can the TC3 handle 13.5t boosted? What is the best ratio for this motor? running on parking lot track.
Any advise would be appriciated
The TC3 drive train can take even mod motors. If you think about it, there was a time when it was a dominant chassis for every class of racing including some very hot brushed mod setups.

The problem though is that the more power you throw at anything, the more likely you are to break something or wear parts out. I've had the carbon fiber drive shaft vibrate right out of the car on some of my hotter setups in the past and also had the ends shear off. So you should use an aluminum drive shaft. Plastic diffs and universal bones may not hold up very well either. Also, any brush with a wall or pipe is mostly likely going to result in bent or broken suspension parts.

Gearing will depend on the track and how much "Boost" you intend to dial in. A safe starting point to experiment with would be around 6:1. But you might find yourself going as low as 4:1 once you experiment with motor temperature and the speed you are looking for.
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:44 AM   #12113
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it will for sure handle it, but who knows if it will handle on a track if thats what you mean haha...
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:46 AM   #12114
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if i remember, Nic Case original speed record was with an extremely modified TC3...
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Old 04-17-2015, 08:15 PM   #12115
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I run it on a medium grip carpet. I do have airtronics servo going in it tomorrow before the race. LoL so, I should take the rear swaybar off since I don't have a front? I'm pretty sure without looking I have silver front and green rear? Is this backwards? Or ok? Don't have anyother springs at the moment. My issue now is loose rear into a corner. As in it wants to spin out every time. Exit is pretty good. Running 40w associated oil all around in the shocks. I figured the aluminum cvds would be a no go as everytime I bump a corner it bends a front. LoL think I will just tighten the front diff a bit more. Rear is pretty loose, but doesn't slip. I run a shorty lipo, mid position and I'm gonna try it rear position tomorrow.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:32 AM   #12116
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Yeah, I would get rid of the rear bar.

You can tighten the front diff but the front one will die really quickly. The plastic diffs are really fragile, crappy and inconsistent... if you can, find two steel ones ASAP.

Check your hinge pins often. They bend super easy.

What body are you running ? Anything else than a Protoform mazdaspeed 6 and you are wasting your time, and I mean that. Attach the wing with a 9-10mm overhang from the back of the body.


I'm thinking running the battery at the back will probably make your problems worse. Well, it doesn't cost much to try.

If I were you I would try this Levanen setup as a baseline ( NOT the Drescher one):

http://petitrc.com/reglages/asso/set...lheim_2003.pdf

( obviously don't run a one-way and a Stratus 1, though... )

Regarding the shocks, they are pretty crappy in many respects but mostly because the AE red o-rings swell quick. You may be running 40W but with swollen o-rings pinching the shaft the shocks might end up feeling like 70W. Be sure to check them often and replace at the first hint of a doubt, or you might chase setup for a looooong time before pinpointing the issue. Always build with massive amounts of green slime, it lubricates and above all I believe it isolates the o-rings from the oil and thus helps delay swelling.

HTH
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:33 AM   #12117
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Maybe try the long wheelbase at the rear, also.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:53 AM   #12118
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Will try that setup. I am running the cadilac cts body now. I have a mazdaspeed 6 body at the painter now, bit it is going on my new tamiya when it shows up next week. LoL then this tc3 will be my sons maybe. Or a vta car.
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Old 04-19-2015, 03:14 PM   #12119
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Wow......
Quote:
Originally Posted by heretic View Post
Aluminum universal joint + spool: you will ovalize the holes in the bone in like 10 minutes of use. They kinda work like this but you will still bend them easy on a tap. As for your spool, anything else than steel is useless. Yeah, you can manage to make an aluminum one work by putting blades on the bone pins, blah-blah... don't go there.

What you want is steel bones with a "slipper" steel spool, ie a spool where the outdrives are solid under normal use but can slip a bit when under excessive twisting force.

You didn't mention if you were on carpet or asphalt ? Anyway I'll let the setup gurus answer regarding the setup changes you might require. Maybe a bit more travel (lower droop value) at the rear to help with corner entry ? 6F-4R is always a good place to start on a TC3 IMHO.

Springs: in between silver and red you have the blue and the gold springs, in that order. Blue F / sliver R or blue-blue always treated me right on carpet. That is with the R shock tower at the front, and the outside position on the arms, both F and R.

Red-red... I have used it once with what I found were crazy good results, but that was with very, very hard tires on carpet. To this day I remember my buddy watching me run this setup for 7 minutes at what seemed like mach 3, no mistake or anything, then shaking his head and commenting: " ... that was ROBOTIC." Best compliment ever, seriously. ^^ But I digress.

Look up setup sheets on Petitrc.com and try to figure out the common denominator between them. For instance, the last setups before the TC4 always feature the R shock tower at the front, and you'll never find an anti-roll bar on one end only but always none or both, etc.

HTH

Oh, last tip: never pay attention to what bertrandsv87 says. Ever
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:55 AM   #12120
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Well, i have to say thanks for the info here. Removed the roll bar, put some gold springs on front and snugged up front diff and this thing came to life! I am still way undergeared, but went from finishing 5th every week to 3rd. With some gearing this thing will compete with the xrays, tr10's, tc6's, and hpi pro's running our 17.5 stock class. But, my tamiya chassis will be here tomorrow. So this ones up for grabs. If it doesnt sell, i may have to make it a vta again. Thanks guys. Most fun ive had with rc in awhile running this saturday. Hope the tamiya runs good.
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