moparSRT

Sounds like your servo is not centering or you have some binding ... dont know where you would have that much slop.
If worn out replace the ball studs and ball cups, get bearings for the steering rack.

AudioStylz

iTrader: (15)

I checked the servo for centering and the steering for binding. The servo is good but I did have some crap in the rack so the steering is bind free. I didn't think about replacing the ball studs and cups though. Replace all 6 cups and studs later this week. Not sure what size bearings I would need though. Easy to do as well.

Oh I have a lot of play in the steering though, with the car on I can wiggle the front wheels left and right by hand by 5* in both directions.

Schs2013

Has anyone had the issue of there tc3 main drive shaft moving lots in the drive cup like 2-3mm of back and forward play.
will spacer(nitro fuel tube cut to appropriate length) work to take out the extra room?
i can still drive it but would rather fix that sooner rather then later?

Stregone

Thats normal, its so the driveshaft doesn't bind up as the chassis flexes.

Schs2013

I thought that was a bad thing. thanks for the help

Eearlyboid

Hey guys,

So, I’ve got a TC3 that I use for VTA and I’m in need of some advice. If needed, I could prolly upload a setup sheet with info.
So, here are the issues.
1) I’m running with a 3.38 FDR and getting motor temps of about 152*-157* (Novak 25.5) with a fan. To me, this seems both good and bad. Good, because it gives me a speed of just under 30mph, and bad because it’s still pretty hot and I’m still 4 seconds behind TQ. Should I maybe repair or replace my motor? It does have a magic smoke smell…
2) I’m running a spool up front, and diff in the back. But, even with the diff tightened down slightly more than what the manual says, the car corners like the back is diffing out. I don’t want to use a spool in the back, so is there a solution or test for diffing out?
3) I’m lacking punch out of the corners with motor timing at 30*. I’m also running full or ¾ throttle the entire lap. Should I reduce or increase my FDR or timing?
4) I switched my barrings in the wheels to brand new barrings but the wheels still feel stiff. Yes, I did put some oil into the barrings and cleaned out the thick grease.
Like I said, I can post a setup sheet with as much info as I can. It seems to me that this car can be much faster and have more punch than what it currently has.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

3.38fdr is a bit high.... The fast guys stay around 3.6 fdr ...

Eearlyboid

I thought so too. I was running 127* at 3.52 FDR but was getting lapped at that ratio. At 3.38 I'm at least somewhat competitive in the back field.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Understood.... In that case I would leave the fdr at 3.38 , and crank up the throttle expo to +60% and max throttle speed.... I would also put the esc minimum drive at max setting, and try to lower rotational mass as much as possible(carbon driveshaft, aluminum outdrives, ceramic diff balls, etc...)..... You can also try shaving some grams Off the Tires: 7grams Off each tire will make the Car accelerate faster.....

Ropes

iTrader: (41)

You mentioned that your wheels still feel stiff after putting in new bearings...are you running the bearing spacer in between? I know there are some guys out there that don't; why, I don't know.

I had a similar issue in the past where the bearing spacer wasn't doing it job of spacing the inner races and allowing the bearings to bind when I tightened the wheel nut. I added some shims between the bearings along with the spacer and all was right in the world again.

Your motor will cool down, too, with a free drive train.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Good point about the inner crush spacers for the bearings. The older TC3's didn't come with those. They are AE part #3965. Here is a link on Tower (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSW19).

If you don't have them on your car (they install between the bearings in the rear hub & steering knuckle), it is easy to over-tighten the wheel onto the car. You might also check to see if there is a small shim (looks like a washer) between the hub/knuckle and the axle roll pin. That small shim helps to keep the wheel hex from rubbing against the hub/knuckle, which can cause binding.

You didn't mention what speed control you are using. Some speed controls have adjustments that will help the car from a dead stop.

If your car is bogging down in the corners, you may need to adjust how much the car is rolling. Too much roll will make the weight transfer side to side instead of keeping the car moving forward. Without a complete setup or seeing your car in action, it is hard to suggest one exact thing. However, here are a few ideas to help the rear rotate better.

- If you aren't loose, try running 2 degrees of rear toe.
- Try installing a rear sway bar to help keep the rear flatter through the corners.
- Try shorter camber links in the rear.
- Decrease droop

Above all, make sure the car is mechanically sound (which it sounds like you do).

A few more things...
- Please let us know the size/lap times at the track you race.
- Are you being beaten by a few good racers, or does everyone seem to be faster?

Eearlyboid

I'm using the Black Justock. Oddly enough, I can't seem to get it to apply drag brake... So there is indeed a chance it's not applying launch either.


When it comes to the straight away, I'm keeping up with the slower racers, but in the corners, even our slower racers beat me and I can't even accelerate out of the corners to catch up. I'm running 16 second laps on a carpet track about the size of a basketball court. I don't actually know the specific size of the track. You can see it here http://youtu.be/rV8m1r-l3H4 I'm not in this particular heat, because I'm only fast enough for our C-mains.

About the tips. Oh man, up, definitely going to see if they help. I had a sway bar on the back, but took it off to help prevent traction rolling. I'm actually lucky the car is doing as well as it is. I got it off e-bay and the damage evidence looked as though the car was drifted full speed, sideways, into a wall... Even the motor magnets were cracked... Droop, however, is something I need to work on. The car I have, uses the original style a-arms so there's no droop screws or second suspension holes. The new arms are on my "to get" list along with different shocks.

mtbiker731

Glad to see there's still love for the TC3!

Cancun Tom

I have an early TC3. The trans ratio is: 2.5:1
So to obtain a FDR of 3.6 I would need to run a 72 T (48pitch) spur with a (48 pitch) 50T pinion......that just doesn't seem right??? Am I missing something here? My tires are 2.57"dia. so that would give a roll-out of 2.25"

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

Tom, you need a 55 or 60T 48p Robinson spur gear. You will need to grind out the webbing in the chassis, below the pinion gear. I run my TC3 (IRS graphite chassis) with a 60T spur and 38 to 41 pinion using a Novak 21.5. Our track is 80' X 140' fairly open design. Give it a try.....