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Old 05-25-2012, 07:10 AM   #11776
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I've just got a quick and stupid question, I recently aquired 2 free TC3's, one RTR and one FT, and for the life of me can't remember if the RTR's had full bearings. Did they?
Hey Joe... I think all TC3s came with bearings but I'm not absolutely certain either. The only difference may have been the bearing type, plain steel vs. teflon in the FT cars. The FT cars may also have come with steering bearings where the others had bushings. Not sure about the bearing type inside the diff either. Those are probably bushings on the cheaper cars. If I every get out to HobbyTown for a race this season, I'll let you look over my cars and give you some tips on setting them up.
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:17 AM   #11777
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Has anyone tried the Team Titian Blitz 190mm bodies, or the East Coast Bodies tune. or others from oversease? besides protoform or parma or hpi.
I tried an East Coast BMW once but it never saw track time. I ruined the paint job and threw it away in frustration. I did have it trimmed to the car before painting though and it fit very nicely. Tried getting another one but have never been able to find one in stock anywhere since. I think on a track as small as yours, you might be able to pull off using a Protoform R9 body. Most guys don't like them on fast tracks because they make the handling kind of "twitchy." But on a small, low speed track it could be beneficial. I had one once that I did race on a Diggity XLR-8 car and I kind of liked it.

Last edited by beemerfan; 05-25-2012 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:20 AM   #11778
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Apologies to everyone for hi-jacking the thread, but I had some time this morning and hate seeing unanswered questions linger. Makes it feel like the thread is dying and I don't want to see that happen either.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:02 AM   #11779
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Thanks BEEMERFAN I found a couple of websites like HPI and X-Ray, that have RC car setup tips/ explanations. I printed off a couple along with the TC3 tuning guide and i will compare what they all say/ explain about the chassis and suspension geometry, like roll center/ roll center axis and how to uses that to fine tune your setup. Awesome stuff.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:19 AM   #11780
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Originally Posted by beemerfan View Post
Hey Joe... I think all TC3s came with bearings but I'm not absolutely certain either. The only difference may have been the bearing type, plain steel vs. teflon in the FT cars. The FT cars may also have come with steering bearings where the others had bushings. Not sure about the bearing type inside the diff either. Those are probably bushings on the cheaper cars. If I every get out to HobbyTown for a race this season, I'll let you look over my cars and give you some tips on setting them up.
Thanks! It did have bushings on the steering rack (already picked up a rock in there too) and it was late enough when I noticed that I was having a brain fart as to how the RTR's were equipped.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:06 PM   #11781
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Default recycling a TC3 -- diff lubrication question

Picked up a Craigslist TC3 roller, put it back together, runs pretty good! One question, the diffs look pretty dirty---I'm planning on blasting them with Nitro Clean and re-greasing them....but I'm looking for recommendations for what weight and how much goo to use?

I'm running VTA, and I'm a rookie on-road driver.

Thanks for any help!

-Dan
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:51 AM   #11782
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Picked up a Craigslist TC3 roller, put it back together, runs pretty good! One question, the diffs look pretty dirty---I'm planning on blasting them with Nitro Clean and re-greasing them....but I'm looking for recommendations for what weight and how much goo to use?

I'm running VTA, and I'm a rookie on-road driver.

Thanks for any help!

-Dan
The differentials should really be taken apart to be cleaned and lubed. The smaller thrust bearings use associated "black grease" that can be substituted with any good automotive bearing grease. The larger balls that go in the gear use a special silicone based lube called "Stealth Diff Lube" which is made special for this application and should not be substituted with anything else or performance will suffer. If the diffs are not turning smoothly, you should also consider replacing the balls and metal rings. Plastic and metal diffs build slightly differently so you should follow the manual for the type you have. Associated's web site still has the manual at http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/TC3/.

Hope that helps.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:48 AM   #11783
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Hi everyone. I'm setting up my old FT TC3 for my son to race in 21.5. I race a Serpent S411 that has an internal ratio of 2 and as my local track is tight and twisty and low grip, we try for a roll out around 60. Does anyone else run 21.5 in their TC3 that can give me an idea of what gearing to use? I was looking at 60/44 which is well short of my roll out but I figured it'd at least be a starting point. What do you think????

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Old 06-11-2012, 04:57 AM   #11784
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Irrgang racing still has aluminum diff outdrives , and aluminum spools in their clearance department.... Also the losi LCD's (losa3344) will eliminate much of the front outdrive wear.... The aluminum parts weigh alot less than the steel ones, and offer more durability than the plastic outdrives: build it once, and forget about it for years...
Hello, I was wondering if you had a picture of the losi LCD fitted on a tc3 ? That and measurements ( length from center of the bone pin to the inner bearing in the carrier, and diameter of the bone where it goes in the outdrive- the " ball " ). That would be helpful, I really want to be sure it's a perfect fit before I buy anything. Thanks !
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:20 AM   #11785
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Hi everyone. I'm setting up my old FT TC3 for my son to race in 21.5. I race a Serpent S411 that has an internal ratio of 2 and as my local track is tight and twisty and low grip, we try for a roll out around 60. Does anyone else run 21.5 in their TC3 that can give me an idea of what gearing to use? I was looking at 60/44 which is well short of my roll out but I figured it'd at least be a starting point. What do you think????

Tony
I race USGT (21.5) with a TC3. On a tight technical track, you should be looking for an FDR of 3.8. I only race rubber so I don't play with roll outs at all but that would be using standard rubber touring car wheels which are about 64mm diameter.

Assuming the 60/44 spur/pinion combo you are speaking of is 48 pitch, it won't fit in the TC3 without modifying the motor mount. Robinson makes a 55 tooth spur in 48 pitch that if used with a 36 tooth pinion, should give you a final drive around 3.82:1. If you switch to 64 pitch, 76/50 spur/pinion combo will give you exactly a 3.8:1 FDR. Both combos should fit the car without much modification. You may need to take down the chassis webbing under the pinion a little if it rubs. The internal ratio of the TC3 is 2.5. Hope that is helpful.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:29 AM   #11786
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Hello, I was wondering if you had a picture of the losi LCD fitted on a tc3 ? That and measurements ( length from center of the bone pin to the inner bearing in the carrier, and diameter of the bone where it goes in the outdrive- the " ball " ). That would be helpful, I really want to be sure it's a perfect fit before I buy anything. Thanks !
They fit. I've had them on my car in the past. I used Losi uprights and steering knuckles as well essentially turning much of my front end into a Losi X-S car. Only I didn't like the LCDs because they seem to limit the amount of steering throw. Don't know if I was doing something wrong because I had zero experience with them before trying it, but I had to limit the steering before it got to full mechanical limits because the LCDs just don't bend as far and are "forced" and rub the uprights if you try to go any further. Maybe that's why they eliminate chatter. If I limit standard CVDs the same way, they don't chatter either.

They are made of very tough spring steel though. And if you get them to work properly, they should last a really long time worry free.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:39 AM   #11787
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I race USGT (21.5) with a TC3. On a tight technical track, you should be looking for an FDR of 3.8. I only race rubber so I don't play with roll outs at all but that would be using standard rubber touring car wheels which are about 64mm diameter.

Assuming the 60/44 spur/pinion combo you are speaking of is 48 pitch, it won't fit in the TC3 without modifying the motor mount. Robinson makes a 55 tooth spur in 48 pitch that if used with a 36 tooth pinion, should give you a final drive around 3.82:1. If you switch to 64 pitch, 76/50 spur/pinion combo will give you exactly a 3.8:1 FDR. Both combos should fit the car without much modification. You may need to take down the chassis webbing under the pinion a little if it rubs. The internal ratio of the TC3 is 2.5. Hope that is helpful.
Hi Beemerfan. Thank you for your input, it's a huge help.

Cheers

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Old 06-13-2012, 07:06 AM   #11788
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They fit. I've had them on my car in the past. I used Losi uprights and steering knuckles as well essentially turning much of my front end into a Losi X-S car. Only I didn't like the LCDs because they seem to limit the amount of steering throw. Don't know if I was doing something wrong because I had zero experience with them before trying it, but I had to limit the steering before it got to full mechanical limits because the LCDs just don't bend as far and are "forced" and rub the uprights if you try to go any further. Maybe that's why they eliminate chatter. If I limit standard CVDs the same way, they don't chatter either.

They are made of very tough spring steel though. And if you get them to work properly, they should last a really long time worry free.
Ok so that's a fit but far from a perfect fit. I'll pass but thanks for your answer.
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:46 AM   #11789
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The LCD's are a perfect fit for my tc4's, but with tc4 parts, knuckles, etc.... I just have to trim the caster blocks a bit with a dremel, and voila... I don't have steering throw issues at all, in fact I can turn my wheels at full lock in both directions with no binding and no stress on the parts at all. I did realize though that the shrink wrap holding the LCD pins in place needs to be cut exactly at the tip of the pins for the LCD not to bind while turning. If you did not cut the shrink wrap, then you steering throw would be limited ! The cut has to be done with a new Gillette on both sides of the shrink wrap, and the LCD must be feeling free before you install it in the car...
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:20 AM   #11790
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What is everyone doing to clean and prep rubber tires for indoor carpet.

Also whats the cure for traction rolling. I had my TC3 setup decent, put on a new set of sweeps QTS-28 real green spec tires and now my TC3 violently snaps into a barrellroll on a tight sweeper turn, and can lift inside weels on a slow off power 180 turn. I put back on the old set of sweeps, same spec tire, and no traction roll, but slight oversteer off power turn.
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