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Old 12-29-2011, 04:38 PM   #11686
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I've experimented with different shimming options and always wind up back to what the instruction manual says. I think it is the way to go. I do believe the requirements are different between plastic or metal diffs.
Hes referring to removing plastic inside the diff casing to keep from binding the bearings/diff when the two case halves are screwed together. Shimming the diff and layshafts are kinda self explanatory.

The shock tower screws will press down on the case just over the bearing race. Its best to drill and tap out the two tower holes on each case that ride over the diff bearing race. This removes most of screw installation stress and bearing fit inconsistencies related to case/tower bolt tightness.

After that you want your diff bearings to ALMOST fall out of the trans case holes when installed and tilted by hand. A large Dremel fine sanding drum used by hand to remove high spots will get the job done right. Minimal binding will give you a cooler running motor, freer driveline, and predictable throttle response.
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:56 PM   #11687
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This has been bugging me since the last time I hit the carpet, when I let off the throttle at the end of the straight to make a right turn, the car just spins out without any brake application. I have no drag brake on it, camber is at -1.5 degrees on all four wheels, could this be a diff issue?
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Old 01-17-2012, 10:31 PM   #11688
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This has been bugging me since the last time I hit the carpet, when I let off the throttle at the end of the straight to make a right turn, the car just spins out without any brake application. I have no drag brake on it, camber is at -1.5 degrees on all four wheels, could this be a diff issue?
Here are some possible ideas:
  • too much rear droop
  • car is tweaked or has wedge (check on a 4 corner scale setup if you have access to one; otherwise check that the preload on your springs is equal
  • shock issue (a shock has leaked it's oil out and is transferring weight to the front end too fast when you let off)
  • cracked chassis, bent hinge pins, other damage

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Old 01-18-2012, 08:20 PM   #11689
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I will start by rebuilding the shocks. The car has sat for a few years.
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Old 01-19-2012, 12:51 AM   #11690
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I will start by rebuilding the shocks. The car has sat for a few years.
I'd go for a full rebuilt, you cannot expect an "old" car that wasn't touch for a few years to perform like a newly buit chassis.
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:54 AM   #11691
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Yes and I also went from nimh brushed to lipo brushless power.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:02 AM   #11692
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Yes and I also went from nimh brushed to lipo brushless power.
Your balance is likely way off then. lipo is much lighter. measure carefully the front and back of the chassis and mark a spot on dead center, then use two xacto razors to balance the car on these marks. add lead to the light side (the lipo side) until the car balances. this could take a few ounces..

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Old 01-24-2012, 09:27 AM   #11693
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Is there a benefit to running the new vcs3 shocks on a tc3? Just curious my shocks are pretty beat up and need to be replaced if I should just go with the newer design?
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:28 AM   #11694
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they might be a bit smoother, but probably nobody has used the new tc6 shocks on a tc3. the tc6 is a metric car so the mount sizes MIGHT be different, and the lengths might be different too??

You are probably better off to use the regular tc3 shocks, unless you want to tinker/try something new/are willing to do a little tweaking if necessary.

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Old 01-25-2012, 08:52 AM   #11695
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Is there a benefit to running the new vcs3 shocks on a tc3? Just curious my shocks are pretty beat up and need to be replaced if I should just go with the newer design?
I got a set of Tamiya Racing Factory shocks ( item # 42102 ) and absolutley love them. They're super smooth! I picked them up on eBay for $50 shipped from Tokyo but for approx $80 you can get them quicker by buying from a US seller. It took under two weeks to get them so it's a matter of how fast you need them. I used green slime on them 3 months ago and they have not leaked at all unlike my original AE Team shocks
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:56 AM   #11696
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Yes and I also went from nimh brushed to lipo brushless power.
You might want to also mention your TC3 is doing about 50mph down the back stretch into that turn
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:53 AM   #11697
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Default tc3 manual

Anyone have a factory team tce manual 4 sale?
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:04 AM   #11698
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Anyone have a factory team tce manual 4 sale?
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...tc3_manual.pdf

http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...anuals_setups/
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:00 PM   #11699
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Thumbs up tc3

my printer broke down, i just wanted original manual if anyone had 1
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:07 PM   #11700
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Originally Posted by EM1-TC3 View Post
I got a set of Tamiya Racing Factory shocks ( item # 42102 ) and absolutley love them. They're super smooth! I picked them up on eBay for $50 shipped from Tokyo but for approx $80 you can get them quicker by buying from a US seller. It took under two weeks to get them so it's a matter of how fast you need them. I used green slime on them 3 months ago and they have not leaked at all unlike my original AE Team shocks
actually I know we have one local racer running these on a tc4. Do you have any limiters inside of the shocks or have you had to adjust the lengths any?
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