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Old 12-12-2011, 05:56 AM   #11641
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Originally Posted by vti-chris View Post
Any problems with the part availability of this car?
Will i be better off with a TC4??
There are TONS of parts still available for the TC3, but you'll find that you're spending lots of time on ebay to get them.
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:09 PM   #11642
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Default Help with Gearing on TC3 for Carpet

I was looking for some advise on gearing my TC3 for Carpet.
It has been suggested to run a Final Drive Ratio (FDR) of 4.0 or as close to that as possible.

I currently have the stock (72t?) spur gear and no selection of pinions. I am ordering a LRP Stock Spec V2 ESC with X-12 17.5t motor from tower and would like to add the appropriate spur/pinion combination to the order.

I would like to have it fit the TC3 with little or no modifications to the chassis (and achieve as close to the FDR of 4.0) without overheating the motor or esc.

I will be running a 2 cell lipo with Sorex 32 or Sweep 28 slicks or similar.

I dont know alot about it and did alot of searching for an answer that I'm sure is here somewhere, but must be using the wrong terms to locate some concrete answers.

So far I was considering a 69 tooth spur and a 43 tooth pinion

Clearly Im confused and any help is much appreciated.
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:32 PM   #11643
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Originally Posted by RussF View Post
I was looking for some advise on gearing my TC3 for Carpet.
It has been suggested to run a Final Drive Ratio (FDR) of 4.0 or as close to that as possible.

I currently have the stock (72t?) spur gear and no selection of pinions. I am ordering a LRP Stock Spec V2 ESC with X-12 17.5t motor from tower and would like to add the appropriate spur/pinion combination to the order.

I would like to have it fit the TC3 with little or no modifications to the chassis (and achieve as close to the FDR of 4.0) without overheating the motor or esc.

I will be running a 2 cell lipo with Sorex 32 or Sweep 28 slicks or similar.

I dont know alot about it and did alot of searching for an answer that I'm sure is here somewhere, but must be using the wrong terms to locate some concrete answers.

So far I was considering a 69 tooth spur and a 43 tooth pinion

Clearly Im confused and any help is much appreciated.
I guess this is for zero timing (blinky) usage, 69 spur is the smallest available, I came accross a 65 but I am not sure if it will fit in TC3 screw holes, as for 43 pignon, I have yet to find something that big, so far I came accross a 35, but I have heard of bigger sizes, but watch it that you do not order 64 dp instead of 48 dp.
to calculate, spur gear teeth divided by pignon teeth multiplide by 2.5 (TC3 internal ratio is 2.5) so 69:35x 2.5=4.92.
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:29 PM   #11644
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I run a 77T spur and 47T pinion for a 4.10 FDR with a Losi Xcelorin 17.5 motor. Seems to work fine, is fast and no overheating.
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:33 PM   #11645
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Is there a consensus on the best aluminum steering blocks? I'd like to get a couple of sets. Tired of the ball end stripping out on my TC3's. I see some on ebay, but I don't know what's good and what isn't. Thanks!
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:36 PM   #11646
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Originally Posted by vti-chris View Post
Any problems with the part availability of this car?
Will i be better off with a TC4??
I've found that I can get many more parts and do-dads for TC3's. They were out longer. Some feel like the "improvements" to the T4 were really not that big of a deal. I'm used to my TC3's. They have some quirks, but once you get those understood, they are good to run.
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:34 PM   #11647
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I guess this is for zero timing (blinky) usage
I dont recall what the rules were but I think I can advance the timing if I want. Does that change your gearing suggestions?


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69 spur is the smallest available
Do you mean the smallest spur that fits the TC3? I've seen some spurs as small as 49t for Associated, but have no idea if they will fit the TC3.

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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
as for 43 pignon, I have yet to find something that big, so far I came accross a 35, but I have heard of bigger sizes, but watch it that you do not order 64 dp instead of 48 dp.
I found some Robinson Racing pinions as high as 47 tooth on Towers site similar to the 43t that I linked. All are 48p. Since I'm looking to replace both the spur and pinion would it make more sense to go with a 64p set anyway?

Thanks again for your response and help.
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:39 PM   #11648
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I run a 77T spur and 47T pinion for a 4.10 FDR with a Losi Xcelorin 17.5 motor. Seems to work fine, is fast and no overheating.
Sounds good.
Any particular brand? Does it fit right into the unmoded chassis? Got a link on Tower?
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:42 PM   #11649
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If you are willing to run 64p I ran a 4.0 FDR in my VTA TC3 using a 80 spur and a 50 pinion. You might have to slightly clearance the chassis with a Dremel or hobby knife for the pinion, not sure as my used chassis has been done already. Not a big issue though.

TC3 parts are still easy to get, some hobby shops have parts at reduced prices too which is a bonus. TC4 parts not so much as there is not a strong following like there was for the TC3 based on what I read here and local racer input.
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Old 12-12-2011, 05:39 PM   #11650
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Tower and Stormer carry about every TC3 part, no problems.

If you dremel out the webbing, the chassis can handle drive ratios near 3.0. I run 64 pitch, 76 spur and pinions from 40 to 60+ will work.

As for carpet, I ran a TC3 at this years Vegas IIC amateur class; cool racing a 12+ year old car when nobody else's car was more than 2 years old! Beat all my friends running modern cars; we were roughly equal drivers, but they were all amazed how well set up my TC3 was on massive traction carpet. Mine was the stock kit Racer kit with only bearing upgrades; even used the clips on the stock plastic shocks. Lay down the shocks, stiffer oil and springs, less droop than asphalt, drive clean!

TC3 is still a great race car.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:34 PM   #11651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussF View Post
I was looking for some advise on gearing my TC3 for Carpet.
It has been suggested to run a Final Drive Ratio (FDR) of 4.0 or as close to that as possible.

I currently have the stock (72t?) spur gear and no selection of pinions. I am ordering a LRP Stock Spec V2 ESC with X-12 17.5t motor from tower and would like to add the appropriate spur/pinion combination to the order.

I would like to have it fit the TC3 with little or no modifications to the chassis (and achieve as close to the FDR of 4.0) without overheating the motor or esc.

I will be running a 2 cell lipo with Sorex 32 or Sweep 28 slicks or similar.

I dont know alot about it and did alot of searching for an answer that I'm sure is here somewhere, but must be using the wrong terms to locate some concrete answers.

So far I was considering a 69 tooth spur and a 43 tooth pinion

Clearly Im confused and any help is much appreciated.
4:1 FDR would be for blinky. If you plan on boosting, you would need to be closer to 6:1 FDR. Robinson & Epic make really big 48P pinions and Robinson makes 48P spurs in 66, 60, 55, 52, & 49 teeth. You have to go between Tower and A-main to find them all but they are there. If you are changing both, you should switch to 64 pitch, its much smoother and you can make more incremental changes without changing the spur. I found Precision Racing spurs / pinions to be the best ones out there. I've had inconsistent stuff from Robinson with some wobbles when brand new and the Epics tend to be heavier. A 64P 51/82 combo will give you a 4.02:1 FDR. A 50/84 combo will give you a 4.2. I think both will fit the car with no modification but it's been a long time since I've had a chassis that wasn't milled out under the pinion so my memory might be failing.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:47 PM   #11652
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Is there a consensus on the best aluminum steering blocks? I'd like to get a couple of sets. Tired of the ball end stripping out on my TC3's. I see some on ebay, but I don't know what's good and what isn't. Thanks!
Use Losi front end parts from the XXX-S, JRXS, or JRXS-R. Use both the uprights and the steering knuckles. If you can find the graphite ones, they are extremely durable, but the EA3 is good too. For some reason, they don't loosen up and strip out as easy as the Associated ones. I could never figure this out. I have to keep checking the tightness of both the bottom shoulder screw and the ball stud with the Associated stuff but the Losi never loosens up. Aluminum is crap. I have two sets of GPM ones. One hit and they are done. They don't break, but they bend terribly. Straightening them is an art form and they become softer with each hit. I've yet to break a Losi graphite one. The only thing is that you may need to do a little filing or shimming for a good fit and the Ackerman changes a little. You get two hole choices on the newer Losi steering knuckles, neither is a match for the stock ones. The short holes are a closer match but the long holes work better for faster rubber classes. I've also drilled a center hole on some that worked very well on my VTA car last summer.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:48 PM   #11653
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Questions??

Does anyone have more steering to one side then the other? Im looking at the front C hubs and one side is thicker then the other where the drive axle goes thru.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:52 PM   #11654
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For 17.5t motors, the 55t spur gear is perfect. For 13.5t the 60t spur gear is fine, and you will need to grind the tub chassis as necessary. All the spurs fit , and you only need two screws to hold them to the adapter. As for pinions, you'll need from 34t to 47t .....good, luck......
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:37 PM   #11655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerfan View Post
Use Losi front end parts from the XXX-S, JRXS, or JRXS-R. Use both the uprights and the steering knuckles. If you can find the graphite ones, they are extremely durable, but the EA3 is good too. For some reason, they don't loosen up and strip out as easy as the Associated ones. I could never figure this out. I have to keep checking the tightness of both the bottom shoulder screw and the ball stud with the Associated stuff but the Losi never loosens up. Aluminum is crap. I have two sets of GPM ones. One hit and they are done. They don't break, but they bend terribly. Straightening them is an art form and they become softer with each hit. I've yet to break a Losi graphite one. The only thing is that you may need to do a little filing or shimming for a good fit and the Ackerman changes a little. You get two hole choices on the newer Losi steering knuckles, neither is a match for the stock ones. The short holes are a closer match but the long holes work better for faster rubber classes. I've also drilled a center hole on some that worked very well on my VTA car last summer.
How did you ever figure out all the Losi stuff works? Amazing! Thanks. I'll see what's in stock at my LHS or order from someone online. Good advice on the aluminum. I didn't know about the bending. Guess that makes complete sense now that you say it.
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