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Old 03-30-2010, 01:34 PM   #11356
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Build the aluminum and steel stiffs the same way. The plastic diff is different and uses d rings for the diff.

There are separate instructions in the TC4 manual for plastic and steel diff. Make sure you are following the correct instructions. Also make sure that you haven't ruined the t-nut.
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Old 04-13-2010, 12:10 PM   #11357
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Default April is TC3 Month

I notice that there hasn't been any forum action since the end of March. Is it possible that all the TC3 questions have been answered in the previous 750-odd pages?
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Old 04-13-2010, 12:16 PM   #11358
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I notice that there hasn't been any forum action since the end of March. Is it possible that all the TC3 questions have been answered in the previous 750-odd pages?
Some have probably even been answered twice!

LMAO
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:50 AM   #11359
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I notice that there hasn't been any forum action since the end of March. Is it possible that all the TC3 questions have been answered in the previous 750-odd pages?
A TC3 is like a TB-02.. it will go on forever.

If I was Assoc I would not discontinue it, but offer it as a starter kit.

It is much more solid than a TC4 and a TC5 is a HIGH END racer that was made to compete with all the other CURRENT HI end racers.

For Spec competition - I cant think of a better car than a TC3. I love mine and will continue to use it.

Once fully adjustable suspension made it into the industry there have not been ANY other significant advancements in car design. Everything else is for 1/100 of a sec a lap for the really fast guys.
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Old 04-14-2010, 05:28 AM   #11360
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A TC3 is like a TB-02.. it will go on forever.

If I was Assoc I would not discontinue it, but offer it as a starter kit.

Ditto that... i'm using one for VTA and the thing is a tank. My only suggestion to AE is to use the TC4 chassis braces and shock towers so that you have a little more adjustability with the upper links and call it good. Maybe rework the motor mounting cam to accomodate the larger pinions for brushless and call it the TC3.1

A car like that would be a great starter/spec class for tracks that need to draw people in. Heck, i think it'd be good for an oval spec/starter class as well.
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Old 04-15-2010, 05:26 PM   #11361
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I just bought my first brushless setup.GTB,NOVAK 10.5,5000-40C BATT.
They just started TC races on a smallish track at our dirt track.So I am dusting off my tc3.How will the above mentioned brushless setup work in the TC3.Will any weight's need to be added?Will the motor and batt. fit correctly?
I am running a 100t 64pitch spur ,I have the bottem taped so the spur is protected.What pinion works with the 10.5 and the 100t 64pitch?And also tell me about the tc5 with a brushless setup.I heard that the brushless motors stick out too far from the centerline, and that the lipo's don't fit correctly either.I am tempted to get TC5 .But I am waiting to hear more about it and brushless setups..

regards ..jimmy.p.
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Old 04-16-2010, 12:50 PM   #11362
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Originally Posted by tc3jp View Post
I just bought my first brushless setup.GTB,NOVAK 10.5,5000-40C BATT.
They just started TC races on a smallish track at our dirt track.So I am dusting off my tc3.How will the above mentioned brushless setup work in the TC3.Will any weight's need to be added?Will the motor and batt. fit correctly?
I am running a 100t 64pitch spur ,I have the bottem taped so the spur is protected.What pinion works with the 10.5 and the 100t 64pitch?And also tell me about the tc5 with a brushless setup.I heard that the brushless motors stick out too far from the centerline, and that the lipo's don't fit correctly either.I am tempted to get TC5 .But I am waiting to hear more about it and brushless setups..

regards ..jimmy.p.
It will all fit fine. As for gearing, I don't know much about gearing for a 10.5. The motor manufacturer usually has a recommended Final Drive Ratio. FYI, the internal ratio of the TC3 is 2.5. Once you get close, a lot of guys set a final ratio with a temp gun -- don't go over 160° and staying around 140 is fairly safe. If you run hot, use a smaller pinion.

The TC5 doesn't capture a lipo as neatly as a TC3, so some sort of tray or brace is recommended. You will have to add weight to the battery side to get the car to balance. The TC5 will be easier to drive with a 10.5 than the TC3.
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Old 04-20-2010, 02:41 PM   #11363
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just got a used tc3 that i want to build for rcgt, the front bonez are shot, will these work ? there steel so will be stronger then the plastic ones.

store.rcspeed.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34_35_38&products_id=265
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Old 04-20-2010, 02:45 PM   #11364
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just got a used tc3 that i want to build for rcgt, the front bonez are shot, will these work ? there steel so will be stronger then the plastic ones.

store.rcspeed.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=34_35_38&products_id=265
cant post a link, just add www


if these dont fit how long do the alumiunm FT ones last ?
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:24 PM   #11365
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might be getting a tc3 soon and it has a 19T motor on it what gearing should I go with on stock spur? I know my friend tried 29 and said it was pretty good but I was thinking maybe 33-35 or is that to high?
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:59 PM   #11366
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Smile RE...TC3

Nitroluver...search... RC10.com....Go to parts and acceseries, scroll down to excel, click on excel, on the left hand side of the screen you can find TC3, TC4, you can get exploded parts list, also you can down load complete original TC3 manual. There is consideable information near the back of the manual regarding baseline set up plus others pertinent "STUFF". For any one trying get gear ratios a 60T 48 pitch robinson spur fits perfectly and will allow much bigger pinions. You may have to dremel out the web in the bottom of the chassis to get clearance. I have installed as large as a 41T and the cam is pretty well centered, "GOOD LUCK". Have fun. As for parts supply Stormer hobbies has almost everything you will need for parts. If you don't have a spare steering rack, GET ONE!!!!!
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Old 04-21-2010, 09:33 PM   #11367
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thanks for the info bull I'll check it out
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:01 AM   #11368
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thanks for the info bull I'll check it out
BigBull is right -- the Associated site has a wealth of good info. Also, the 60T Robinson spur is the way to go for 48-pitch. I ran a TC3 with 35/60 for both VTA and RCGT with no issues. Two minutes of Dremel on the web under the pinion and you're good to go.
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Old 04-22-2010, 01:30 PM   #11369
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New to brushless tc racing .What are most people running for lipo's meaning: a 5000 40c ?what c rating ?I am running a 10.5 or a 13.5..
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:48 PM   #11370
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Please bear with me as I try to explain my situation with my TC3 that is set up for VTA. I'm having an issue with the droop and I'm hoping someone here has an answer for this.

The car is at the desired ride height of 5.5mm, but with the droop screws adjusted to the desired amount of droop (5mm) the springs do not make contact with the pre-load collars when the wheels are lifted off the ground. I guess to try to be more clear, the measured droop is only about 3mm, but I have to physically push the wheels down (with the car lifted off the ground) to show 5mm of droop, because with the springs no longer contacting the pre-load collars the downward travel of the tires/suspension arms stops at 3mm. I have to physically move the tires/arms down to make contact with the droop screws because the springs are no longer pushing on them.

This issue is the car is loose on power and I don't think I'm getting proper weight transfer to the rear with the front set up the way it is. If I measure ride height it's at 5.5mm. When I raise the front of the car up to the point the front tires just leave the ground it's only measuring 3mm of droop, but if I push the wheels down past the point where the front springs stop making contact with the pre-load collar and get that extra bit of travel the droop will measure 5mm when the arms are on the droop screws.

What I think is I'm not getting the desired setting of 5mm of droop in the front, I'm only getting 3mm. So when I get on the gas the front can't raise up as high and transfer the weight to the back of the car. What I was thinking of doing is to internally limit travel of the shocks, then the shock shaft travel would not be longer than the spring, and I would hopefully eliminate the issue of the spring losing contact with the pre-load collar and achieving proper suspension extension in the front and allowing proper weight transfer.

Has anyone ever experienced this, and would limiting shock travel via internal spacer fix this issue?
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