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Old 02-10-2010, 07:37 PM   #11311
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Good afternoon all,
Rather than search through all the 11,000 + posts Or try to search through the countless threads which I have already done. I figured I will just ask here. I bought a TC3 roller from a guy off here. Now I though I would just put my electronics from my T3 into the car and be on the road. I figured wrong. It seemed like everything was too big. And the motor dosen't fit in the saddle correctly.When I put the motor in the saddle (at least I think thats what its called) and I put the pinion gear on the end bell. The pinion gear almost comes in contact with the spur gear. Am I missing something? I looked online and it looks like amain sells micro E.S.C. and motor combos. Is that what I need to get the car running? Is there a specific servo I should be using as well? Any info is as always appreciated Thanks
Standard size electronics will fit in the TC3 and I would guess that the motor cam is incorrectly mounted if your having troubles with the fit, the shaft should be centered in the motor cam.
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:06 PM   #11312
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The TC3 Was designed back in the days of larger ESC's (over1" footprint), so there should be plenty of room- although not as much as you'd find in a truck like the T3. What electronics are you using?
I was using a stock 20T motor and a Dynamite brushed E.S.C. along with a 27 mghz radio. But after lots of searching and many headaches I gave up with the TC3 and when back to my T3. Until about a couple of days ago when I sold my T3. I'm back to my TC3 plus a new on-road track is opening near my work. So there is more pressure than ever to get the car run able.
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:10 PM   #11313
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Standard size electronics will fit in the TC3 and I would guess that the motor cam is incorrectly mounted if youre having troubles with the fit, the shaft should be centered in the motor cam.
The motor shaft will ALWAYS be centered in the motor cam... no matter what holes are used to mount the motor to the cam. Hole choice with the motor cam and motor can are for proper placement of the motor endbell for wiring. Turning the cam in the cradle adjusts gear mesh... or motor shaft centerline in relation to the main shaft centerline.
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:19 PM   #11314
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The motor shaft will ALWAYS be centered in the motor cam... no matter what holes are used to mount the motor to the cam. Hole choice with the motor cam and motor can are for proper placement of the motor endbell for wiring. Turning the cam in the cradle adjusts gear mesh... or motor shaft centerline in relation to the main shaft centerline.
Okay I'm sorry man I am still new to the R/C lingo. So the motor shaft will always be in the center of the motor right? So do I need a larger pinion gear than I have now? If so I am pretty sure the TC3 roller I have is bone stock. Does anyone know what size pinion gear I should be using with the stock spur gear? Also does anyone have any good recomendations on a servo? Lastly are there any parts I should be stocking up on,or at least ones that break fequently. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:46 PM   #11315
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Okay I'm sorry man I am still new to the R/C lingo. So the motor shaft will always be in the center of the motor right? So do I need a larger pinion gear than I have now? If so I am pretty sure the TC3 roller I have is bone stock. Does anyone know what size pinion gear I should be using with the stock spur gear? Also does anyone have any good recomendations on a servo? Lastly are there any parts I should be stocking up on,or at least ones that break fequently. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks
Hello brader.. Stock TC3 afaik comes with 69T Spur (cmiiw), with 20T motor you may start with about 25T pinion, simply just figure out how to put the motor in chassis refer to the manual book..
rather that scrolling down ten thousand plus-plus post above.. Cheers..
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Old 02-11-2010, 05:44 AM   #11316
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wrong. The stock spur is 72 teeth.

Could you post a picture of the motor ? I think it would help in telling you which pinion to use. 25 teeth seems like a safe starting point though, maybe lacking top end.
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:23 AM   #11317
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Be sure to buy a Parma bumper for your TC5 or you can just buy a whole bunch of caster blocks.
I don't wanna go off into TC5-land, but I've heard that the Parma is the ticket for someone who drives like me.

Regarding TC3 bumpers, I almost threw a couple of RPM bumpers away because of the sagging problem that they seem to have. But I clamped the part that mounts to the chassis in a vise and hit the rest of it with a heat gun until it got al dente (kind of like pasta). I then used a couple of small bungies to hold it in a nose-up attitude until it cooled off. I'm amazed to say that it holds its new shape perfectly. I'm sure it will sag again at some point, but now that I know the fix, I wont have to go LHS-hopping to find another.
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:50 PM   #11318
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The RPM bumper is great for what it is, but it does sag over time. Even if you dont hit things it still sags. The heat gun trick done every week while its still on the car will keep it in shape. Cutting a piece of kydex to help support it helps too. A bumper for a bumper... lol.
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:19 AM   #11319
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I was given a RPM bumper and never felt the need to use it instead of the stock one, thanks to the tip in this link :

TC3 Forum

After some time, the bumper stops falling , it remains in a lift up position and you can just forget about it and save some grey cells for more interseting things such as setting the car up.
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Old 02-12-2010, 07:15 AM   #11320
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I was given a RPM bumper and never felt the need to use it instead of the stock one, thanks to the tip in this link :

TC3 Forum

After some time, the bumper stops falling , it remains in a lift up position and you can just forget about it and save some grey cells for more interseting things such as setting the car up.
You obviously drive better than I do. The stock bumper you show leaves the front corners vulnerable to detachment via contact with immovable objects. Because it's so wide, the RPM bumper does a pretty fair job of keeping the front wheels attached to the car, even during meetings with the aforementioned immovables. The material is also pretty flexible, so it takes a good punch. Since I usually opt for a little push in my car, it's the front end that hits the wall first. So for a hacker like me, the RPM is a definite parts-saver. The only downside to the RPM is the sag issue, and since I stumbled on a good fix, I thought I'd pass it along.

I too, would like to spend more time on setup and practice, but when you're fixin' it, you ain't runnin' it. Since I haven't yet figured out how to keep it off the fences, the least I can do is try to keep the wheels on it.
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:56 AM   #11321
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You obviously drive better than I do. The stock bumper you show leaves the front corners vulnerable to detachment via contact with immovable objects. Because it's so wide, the RPM bumper does a pretty fair job of keeping the front wheels attached to the car, even during meetings with the aforementioned immovables. The material is also pretty flexible, so it takes a good punch. Since I usually opt for a little push in my car, it's the front end that hits the wall first. So for a hacker like me, the RPM is a definite parts-saver. The only downside to the RPM is the sag issue, and since I stumbled on a good fix, I thought I'd pass it along.

I too, would like to spend more time on setup and practice, but when you're fixin' it, you ain't runnin' it. Since I haven't yet figured out how to keep it off the fences, the least I can do is try to keep the wheels on it.
I hit the wall not very often but pretty hard ...

The durability has definitely gone up with today's cars. Still loving this car, I just can't get tired of it.
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Old 02-15-2010, 12:32 PM   #11322
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.

Last edited by heretic; 02-16-2010 at 02:18 AM. Reason: huh ?
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Old 02-15-2010, 04:25 PM   #11323
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Default Rear toe

I measured the rear toe on my TC3 with 200mm arms and saw 3 on one side and 2 on the other. Each side has about a half degree of slop, which I took into account, but there's still a difference right to left.

Any hints on how I could make a 1 adjustment?
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:36 PM   #11324
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That's normal on the TC3. For some reason the toe is one degree off from the other. They do have blocks that have an even amount of toe for the rear.
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:51 PM   #11325
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I thought the issue with rear toe was related to the original chassis, but that they fixed that in later versions of the car. I have a newer chassis and it doesn't seem to have that issue with rear toe.

I know my original racer chassis (without drop screw tabs) did look like it had uneven toe-in.
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