Here are a couple of responses to recent questions in this thread:
Originally Posted by danketchpel
It says qty = 3 ??? why not 4? Am I missing something here?
I just bought a set of the #6943 nuts......., oh well, I can still use them on my NTC3.
Team Associated Part #3438 (low profile wheel nuts) only seem to come in packages of 3. Team Trinity also makes lower profile blue wheel nuts which came in a package of 4, but I think they are now discontinued.
Originally Posted by TomElEctric!
is the tc3 discontinued?
Yes, the TC3 has been discontinued for quite some time. However the TC4 tub chassis is still available through hobby stores as a RTR kit. Here is a link on TowerHobbies for the RTR TC4 (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SEARCH=tc4+rtr
Originally Posted by gramm
....I'm still chasing a bit of binding in the front gearbox though. I tightened the gearbox cover down softly but it's still a bit
. I imagine the car should roll a fair way on the ground when pushed with the motor removed? Thanks for your help
You will find on the older gearbox cases that they may pinch the bearings when you tighten them down. A quick solution is to tighten down the screw fully and then back out the screw 1/4 turn. I also replace the 3/8" screws with 1/2" screws on the diff cases. I also use 1/2" screws on the drive shaft bearing cap. I would also recommend at least cutting the threads on the diff cases with a steel screw (or using steel screws) as this will help prevent the inevitable cross threading that happens on the diff cases.
Another thing you can do is to sand or dremel the diff cases where the bearings sit so that they aren't as pinched. Personally I would just purchase a new set of gearbox cases. When the Nitro TC3 came out, they slightly modified the gearbox cases. The newer cases don't seem to pinch the bearings. The NTC3 gearbox case has an extra mounting hole on the top half. If you don't have the extra hole, you have the original case.
Here is a photo of the newer cases
You can also use the extra hole on the front case to mount a turnbuckle and create a front bumper brace. Another issue with the TC3 is over time the front bumper tends to droop down due to accidents. Having a turnbuckle mounted to the bumper will help maintain the life (and flatness) of the plastic bumper.
You can also purchase a blue aluminum gearbox case made by RD Logics. If I recall correctly they marketed it as being "blue-printed" so that it fit original factory specs. Here is a link where you can purchase one (http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/cate...381&type=store
). I can't say that this will improve performance, but it might look nice on a shelf-queen.
Originally Posted by Takt
I'm running a TC3 VTA car ...
I'm running lipo, 21.5 - Novak GTB, Futuba digital servo (reg size) and Spektrum receiver (larger one).
I'm 200g overweight (1600 range) with the lip battery and counter weight.
I'm wanting to lose some of that weight so I can be more competitive. (And, yes, before someone says it ... I ran at a big race warm-up on Jan 1 ... ran a perfect race - the best I can do - and was beaten by 5 other guys. And in my opinion, I was losing time during acceleration, so I think it is the weight)
I'm running a tub chassis TC3 and I tend to paint with a heavy hand. My TC3 with aluminum shocks, cvds, drive shaft, and battery brace weighs in around 1550 grams with a Camaro Body. I have a few weights on my car for balance, but not much.
I had the same problem being beat down the straight, but figured out I had the car setup too stiff. The USVTA class comes down to tires more than anything else. The HPI Vintage tires are a harder compound and take a bit to break-in. If you setup your car softer you will find that you get better forward traction. I'm currently running silver springs up front with green springs in the rear as a starting point.
Last big VTA race I was at was the USVTA Great Lakes series in Ft. Wayne, IN. I qualified 4th and actually had the 2nd fastest lap in the A-Main using my tub chassis TC3. My car was just as fast down the straight as the top 3, but I drove a poor main. I was geared around 4.35 FDR and had no problem keeping up.
If you feel you are lacking acceleration with the 21.5/Lipo combo, you can also adjust the punch settings in your speed control.