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Old 07-10-2006, 12:57 PM   #10996
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sorry cant help with the rear arms question but i had a question about the factory team tc3 and the rtr i beleive that i have a rtr but i have the blue metal shock bodies blue metal dog bones the blue screw kit and the blue metal camber/caster tie rods (i guess they are tie rods) well my question is what else do i need to do to turn it into factory team by the way im just getting into this stuff and the guy from ebay that i bought the car from all he said was tc3 o and i just orderd grafite front a arms and probly gonna by the rear arms to

all is appriciated cody
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:02 PM   #10997
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Originally Posted by RC Guru
hey guys...do any of you remember or have the link to that old tc3 mod website?
word, I was looking for it a month ago and couldnt find it in these forums, I know it was here but darn if I caould find it I must have spend 1-2 hours reading old stuff and didnt find it
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:14 PM   #10998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supradude
sorry cant help with the rear arms question but i had a question about the factory team tc3 and the rtr i beleive that i have a rtr but i have the blue metal shock bodies blue metal dog bones the blue screw kit and the blue metal camber/caster tie rods (i guess they are tie rods) well my question is what else do i need to do to turn it into factory team by the way im just getting into this stuff and the guy from ebay that i bought the car from all he said was tc3 o and i just orderd grafite front a arms and probly gonna by the rear arms to

all is appriciated cody
make sure the ar has bearings and not bushings, i have learned that with the tc3 none of that hopup stuff makes a huge difference, if the car is set up correctly it will compete with anything out there.
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:47 PM   #10999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyB
word, I was looking for it a month ago and couldnt find it in these forums, I know it was here but darn if I caould find it I must have spend 1-2 hours reading old stuff and didnt find it
yea i couldnt find it either...got a headache from scrollin down and moving my eyes back and forth for like 2 hours straight..
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:53 PM   #11000
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Old TC3 Mod website
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:13 PM   #11001
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Quote:
make sure the ar has bearings and not bushings, i have learned that with the tc3 none of that hopup stuff makes a huge difference, if the car is set up correctly it will compete with anything out there
so i wont need carbon fiber THIS and THAT?.... just set it up correctly ?.... what about motors and esc and all the electronics,...tires?
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:22 PM   #11002
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Default Diggity Designs XLR8 Conversion Kit for the Associated TC3 and TC4 kits

The Diggity Designs XLR8 conversion kit for the Associated TC3 and TC4 touring cars is Now available. Word on the street is that the Associated TC3 and TC4 touring cars are going under, but everyone seems to have forgotten how well a shaft car can handle and the amazing punch you get off the line and exiting corners. After 2 years of development and testing, we have produced a conversion kit that can turn your old TC3 or TC4 into a brand new competitive racing machine! The kit features a chassis that was layed out by weight meaning that it was designed around the most balanced set-up, we have lowered the drive line 1/4 inch from Associated's standard keeping the center of gravity very low and increasing speed, introduced milled aluminum components to keep the drive line accurate and to keep the structure if the entire kit well solid, carbon fibre components made from 3mm quasy layered panels from Kinetic Composites, new suspension geometry, new steering geometry, one-piece solid aluminum drive shaft for a more effecient drive line, along with many tuning options found on the newer touring kits i.e.(x-ray, corally). This is the ultimate shaft drive touring car available. Allot of TC3's and TC4's are laying around collecting dust right now, you can find some great deals on Ebay if you dont already have one.

Here are some pics: You can see more pics here: XLR8 PICS
You can purchase an XLR8 kit here: XLR8 ORDER
For more information visit: www.diggitydesigns.com







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Old 07-12-2006, 10:15 PM   #11003
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The aluminum looks great, but dont tell me you are beating anyone on the track with all the added weight.... yikes!
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:07 PM   #11004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onthegas
The aluminum looks great, but dont tell me you are beating anyone on the track with all the added weight.... yikes!

Acctually we have and we are, and will be allot this comeing season.. The XLR8 foam spec is weighing in at 51.5 - 52.5 ounces fully loaded with a mod motor and 3800's including body and tires, so we are right in the window of roar weight being 52 ounces for foam touring and the same weight as most touring cars today. It will all depend on electronics you use, mod or stock motor, 3300 or 4300 cells, and of course tire size etc.. No yikes here bro I wouldnt be driveing it if it wasnt the shiznit!
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:40 PM   #11005
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How durable are the arms? I wouldn't want to keep having to pay 15 bucks just to replace the arms. Also, anything other than 4+2?
Other than that, looks good.
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:58 PM   #11006
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I like the idea of 4+2 batt layout for shaft car regardless some idea of running 4-cells on TC,
is this conversion intended for indoor racing or also suitable for outdoor?
is that 1 piece drive shaft?
did you have any gear cover option?
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Old 07-13-2006, 12:00 AM   #11007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XrayFK
How durable are the arms? I wouldn't want to keep having to pay 15 bucks just to replace the arms. Also, anything other than 4+2?
Other than that, looks good.

The arms are very durable we used 2024-T6 Aluminum wich is rated at 125 hardness and a tensile strength of 68 ksi, where 6061-T6 aluminum is rated at 95 for hardness and tensile strength of 45 ksi. The ratings are similar to 7075 aluminum. You will bend the end of your hinge pin or just blast the hubs right off before you will effect the arms!

The prototype chassis had a configuration that included an optional 6 cell layout on one side or you could run the 4 and 2. After numerous testing at different tracks and different track surfaces we found that the car always worked best with the 4 and 2 set-up; this is also the exact location that the car was best balanced from right to left when we first started to design the kit. When running batteries all to one side we found there to be a difference in weight of 117 grams on the battery side, but with the 4 and 2 set up the difference from side to side was only 7 grams.. much better! so we decided to offer the chassis only in the 4 and 2 set-up to help people get better handling out of their XLR8
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Old 07-13-2006, 12:10 AM   #11008
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is this conversion intended for indoor racing or also suitable for outdoor?
is that 1 piece drive shaft?
did you have any gear cover option?
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Old 07-13-2006, 12:25 AM   #11009
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4+2 battery packs are a pain
What size are the threads in the arms for the shock mounts?
Also, was it not possible to fit a two-piece bulkhead in the space? Makes for much easier maintenance.
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Old 07-13-2006, 12:30 AM   #11010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faiz
is this conversion intended for indoor racing or also suitable for outdoor?
is that 1 piece drive shaft?
did you have any gear cover option?

The XLR8 has been tested both indoor and outdoor with promising results from both surfaces. When we tested outdoor we had no problems at all with the open diffs, at this time we do not sell a gear cover. Yes the drive shaft is a solid one-piece shaft wich minimizes drive line components and also keeps the drive line more effecient. Great questions.!

Here is a quote from Lane Wiley; one of the first guys that has purchased the XLR8:
Hey Damon,
The car worked and felt great. It definitly turned sooo much better than my tc3, without being twitchy or a hit of oversteer, it was the car because our traction was pretty low that day and normally I am fighting oversteer, not that day! awesome! I normally have to dial out steering but I had it cranked all the way on my radio and never felt like I had to touch it all day. It also felt more precise going down at the end of the straight. If you saw me push out real wide on some of the turns that was me not letting off the throttle in the turn, still working on my driving lol! I tried a couple of things but put my set up right back the way I had it when I first got out there, the next time we race I will try the associated rear hubs. The open diffs were not a problem at all I did not even blow my car off once, I needed to but I didn't have time , the diffs were always fine the car is very quiet.

Here are a couple vids he sent me of his first runs, he's the pink colored car: VIDEO1 VIDEO2
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