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Old 03-03-2006, 01:32 AM   #10936
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Make sure you built the shocks correctly?...

Maybe while putting the shock together you're pinching the O-rings with the shock shaft? Thus making it leak? For me, I basically build the shock exactly how the manual says to... Lesser the foam around the white block above the O-rings. (How it was explained to me, was that the foam was to give the shock it's rebound... But after a rebuild or two, the foam is useless because it's stuck full of shock oil. So eventually, it becomes of no use. But to get the rebound back, I believe that there has to be enough air in the shock for the shaft to come into the shock body.)


You don't want to get a stupid nick-name like Bubbles or anything... Hahahaha.




Wouldn't you have to take out the shock oil in order to change the O-rings in the first place...?
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Old 03-03-2006, 06:22 AM   #10937
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I coat the o-rings on the shock shaft with Associated green slime before I dropping them in. Helps prevent 'em from getting pinched and seat right. If it's not the o-rings or the shock shafts I don't know what to say. The only time I've had one leak was when they wore out and one time I had pinched the o-ring rebuilding it.

Last edited by Brent Owen; 03-03-2006 at 06:40 AM.
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Old 03-07-2006, 03:10 AM   #10938
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What a mine field of information! Im collecting all useful info and copying into a note pad document for future reference,currently got to page 60 - I could be some time!

I have the team kit and was wondering if its advisable to do the bearing trick on the diff bearings for this model,or is it only better with the racer kit with the rubber inserts to the bearings?

Also,what is the best way to shave some weight off this car? as mine is quite heavy.

Thanks all,keep it up with the useful info!
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Old 03-07-2006, 09:40 AM   #10939
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I'm pretty sure that the berrings were more for the steel outdrive diff's. I don't believe that it enhances performance in a plastic outdrive diff.

Shaving weight... At 2004's Reedy Race, I ran a FT TC3 with a cut out motor bay, the center truss' were cut half-way on the "X"s and I was taping my batteries in. I ended up having to add half an ounce to make legal weight.

BUT, if you're THAT mind set at shaving weight... You could cut out the right side of the chassis, where the electronics go, to mock that of the TC4. You could also cut out the underside of the motor bay. Take a little out of the center's of the battery catche's(better description of this?). Tape your batteries in. Other than that, I wouldn't worry too much. =]
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Old 03-08-2006, 02:21 AM   #10940
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Interesting. So doing the bearing mod on plastic outdrives isnt a good move/isnt beneficial? Or simply not AS beneficial?

Surely if I run the plastic outdrives with the bearing mod i will have the lightest,smoothest drivetrain? Or does logic not come in to the given situation?

Will cutting out the motor bay area weaken the chassis a lot? Im keen to make the chassis lighter as I dont have the FT kit.

Hmm,yes I could cut the chassis to replicate the TC4,good thinking. Leave just enough chassis to mount the electrics,cut under the servo etc.

BUT! what is the best way/tool to cut the centre chassis X brace and other parts?

Thanks for the input
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Old 03-08-2006, 10:48 PM   #10941
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Personally, I have never seen/felt a difference between the berrings and the bushings in my diff's. I am also pretty sure that the bushings are slightly lighter than the berrings...

Weakening the chassis by cutting the motor bay... I don't think so?. Let's just put it this way... The amazing air and spins that my car achieved going through the dog-leg at Reedy, and flying over half of the track, only caused an upper camber link to pop off. Besides, as long as you leave the little wall to the right of the motor, the clamping device should hold up to anything you throw at it. The only problems I've had in the motor mount area, are cams breaking in half...

There are four versions of the TC3...

TC3 RTR
TC3 Racer Kit
TC3 Team Kit
TC3 Factory Team Kit

The RTR was just a Racer Kit that was pre-built. Only the RTR's and the Racer's came with plastic parts. The Team and Factory Team came with all the graphite goodies. The Team/Factory Team differed in; Steering rack bushings/berrings and aluminium/threaded aluminium shock bodies.(If I left differences out, please feel free to correct me.)
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Old 03-09-2006, 03:40 AM   #10942
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Ok thanks for the input

Well,i'll be looking into a few things and seeing what works. Trial and error I guess!
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Old 03-10-2006, 09:23 AM   #10943
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Does anyone know if the aluminum FTTC4 suspension mount pieces will work as a replacement for the nylon ones on the TC3? Or is there another company that makes some? I've searched around, and am either blind or dumb, but I couldn't find any.........
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Old 03-10-2006, 10:53 AM   #10944
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Stig, if you use FT TC4 arm blocks you'd have to upgrade to the TC4 control arms, hinge pins, etc, because the TC4 has larger hinge pin diameters with a ball cup type of setup in the arm mount blocks.

I think aluminum blocks were available but not sure who produced them, if they're still available. I always ran the plastic/nylon mounts with my TC3, if one got whopped out I just replaced them with new ones for $5-6. I replaced the blocks a few times over a couple years and it was much cheaper than buying $12-16 per block for aluminum.
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Old 03-10-2006, 12:40 PM   #10945
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Cool. Thanks for the info Brent.
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Old 03-10-2006, 02:55 PM   #10946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Stig
Does anyone know if the aluminum FTTC4 suspension mount pieces will work as a replacement for the nylon ones on the TC3? Or is there another company that makes some? I've searched around, and am either blind or dumb, but I couldn't find any.........
also, the FTTC4 aluminum arm mounts screws are spaced farther apart than the TC3 holes. so they are not a direct fit without doing some work.
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Old 03-10-2006, 08:11 PM   #10947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJae
also, the FTTC4 aluminum arm mounts screws are spaced farther apart than the TC3 holes. so they are not a direct fit without doing some work.
Work I'm sure I'm not up for
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Old 03-19-2006, 11:37 PM   #10948
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Does anyone still have success with this car???

After picking up my TC3 RTR three weeks ago, I took it apart, rebuilt it with threaded shock bodies, installed my One-Way, and installed TC4 aluminium dogbones up front. Because of my school, work, and other hobby schedules I've only been able to race twice with the car. It's starting to annoy me, as I've TQed both times, but placed second both times as well. Although I enjoy seeing the looks on the faces of the people whom I beat, when they realize that the car that out qualified them was a TC3 RTR!
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Old 03-20-2006, 12:14 AM   #10949
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Does TC4 chassis brace fits TC3, I like those built in upper arm mount on TC4 chassis brace.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:54 AM   #10950
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I run a BMI TC3 and do pretty good with it.
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