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Old 02-11-2002, 11:03 AM   #1036
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Quote:
Originally posted by Buda
You said you cant go wrong with a digital servo, I am between the KO and Hitec high speed digtal servos both around .08 sec. and 118 oz" any recomendations? Does anyone use these two models I belive the hitec is 5925 and ko is 2173 or 2743
I have 2 TC3's. One has a hitec 5925 digital servo and the other a KO 2123 digital fet (7.2V) servo. Both are great servos, but the KO is simply mindboggling (.06 sec at 132 oz-in) versus the Hitec (.08 sec at 128 oz-in).

here's the comparo:

Hitec uses a higher grade textured plastic and uses a rubber grommet to fully seal the servo. The Ko uses a much cheaper feeling smooth black plastic.
The Hitec makes a fair bit of high pitched noise, the Ko runs much quieter.
The Hitec geartrain feels smoother than the Ko.
The Ko has an edge in speed and torque but makes use of the 7.2V blue wire.
The hitec is about $20 less.
Both feel infinitely better than their analog counterparts.

KO also makes a digital (6V) 2143 which is much closer spec wise to the hitec 5925.

Concerning glitching, here's the ODD thing. Coupled to a LRP Quantum competition speed controller, my hitec 925 (analog) servo caused TONS of glitching. The Hitec 5925 (digital) does not. Weird, eh? And none of the servos glitch with my older cyclone.
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Old 02-11-2002, 11:08 AM   #1037
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Hara is only driving the off-road cars....sorry for the confustion.
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Old 02-11-2002, 12:39 PM   #1038
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also I saw that hitec has 2 or 3 year waranty
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Old 02-11-2002, 02:53 PM   #1039
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Default snetterton track

Here is the Snetterton track (Reedy Ero. Nationals) Only practiced there but it is really nice let me tell you just waiting for better weather
http://www.smmcc.co.uk/
click on on road and you can see a few pictures
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Old 02-11-2002, 02:56 PM   #1040
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That's a killer track....might have to take a trip overseas to check it out!!!


ROAD TRIP!!!!

ok, maybe not a total 'road' trip....
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Old 02-11-2002, 03:24 PM   #1041
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Diff housing > I dremeled it out to. I think the plastic ones are bigger or something. They steel ones would spin and the plastics would not. I also do not completly tighten the tranny case. This helps as well.

Servos > I have a JR Digital and its great! One of the best things i bought. I upgraded from a standard Hitec servo.

TP > You coming out to race this weekend, Lake Perris for some TV coverage?
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Old 02-11-2002, 03:28 PM   #1042
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I've found the trick with shocks is to half fill the shock cap with oil as well can egt a bit messy when you screw it on but if you're quick its ok.
If you want caps with a bleed screw then use Yokomo ones they are a direct fit
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Old 02-11-2002, 03:42 PM   #1043
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Wolf: Ya, I think so. Both days. Can I hook up with you and your EZ-Up???
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Old 02-11-2002, 05:00 PM   #1044
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Default snettterton

Yea they do both Nitro and Electric. Guess I may need to get a NTC3 so I can race both (how about hookin me up TP with your AE contavts, "Support your troops!) Talk to Corse-R he did the Reedy intl here. Controll tire for the track is the HPI belted slick B15-40 compound. They have a smallish shop here as well. Not many TC3 spares but usually have some bits. They are in the process of doing up an off road track now also, do I also hear a GS storm or Kyosho 7.5? Well I am seperated now so no one to say no!! only downside it is England and the weather can be wet but I do have a TC3 inner body shell for when I make it there.

Last edited by Buda; 02-11-2002 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 02-11-2002, 05:21 PM   #1045
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Has anybody ever thought about putting the NTC3's pivot ball suspension on the TC3?

I mentioned it to Blackstock at the Snowbirds and he sat down with both cars and had a long look at them. I could tell that his gray cells were working really hard at that moment :-)
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Old 02-11-2002, 08:45 PM   #1046
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thanks to everyone who responded to my post about shock rebuild...
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Old 02-12-2002, 01:02 AM   #1047
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I tried different spring setups at socal today.

F - 50wt, R - 40wt
0 toe out
2 camber
battery rear
ride height 5
Everything else is stock

F - red, R - blue - rear was little loose causing twitchy steering.
F - red, R - green - solid rear traction, best setup so far
F - copper, R - green - ice skating steering
F - gold, R - green - little unstable steering in the corners

I couldn't try more on last setup and silver in rear due to time constrain.

I was using 22/72 48p with 10x2 caliber.

In long straight, it was fast enough passing other cars many times.
But in the corners it was hard to keep up with other cars.
I think for this track (small indoor, hardbite smooth asphalt), 22 tooth is too overgeared.
I will go 20 or 21 next time.

After the run, motor was really burning hot.

Time to rebuild the shocks again.

I'll go 50wt front 30 wt rear.
red front, silver or green rear
sway bar front or rear (?)

Have anyone had bad rear hub carrier?
My new graphite ones are all bad.
I couldn't see it with my eye though if I put two bearings, axle and turn it with my finger it grind balls in the bearing.
Misalignment.

So I had to reuse old composite ones. They run as free as possible.
I wonder if all graphite hub carriers are bad.
Front ones also have slight misalignment though I decided to use them.
Oh man, maybe just a bad luck.

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Old 02-12-2002, 08:58 AM   #1048
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcruv


After the run, motor was really burning hot.


Have anyone had bad rear hub carrier?
My new graphite ones are all bad.
I couldn't see it with my eye though if I put two bearings, axle and turn it with my finger it grind balls in the bearing.
Misalignment.


I've had bad graphite front carriers before. I threw them away and bought some new ones and they were perfect.

Go down a tooth or two if the motor is burning hot.

What surface do you run on? I may try that setup out.
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Old 02-12-2002, 09:46 AM   #1049
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Agent99 - You could, but it's ALOT of work, and quite a bit heavier...
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Old 02-12-2002, 10:03 AM   #1050
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Default NTC3

TP how is the NTC3 dooing I dont know anyone with one. What is the spped, handling and durability like?
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