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Old 10-19-2005, 03:55 PM   #10411
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oh so you just drift when ever you cant race good idea so you wont get bored... anywayz ya iv been drifting for about a year or two with r/c cars, games(favorite game for drifting is Gran Turismo 3) and with real cars so ya if you were wondering how i was drifting with r/c cars for a year or two is beacuse i used pvc or water bottles but ya youll noticed a bunch of factors in drifting(itll be alot of fun )
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Old 10-19-2005, 04:03 PM   #10412
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lol awsome, yea its great just bag it all up peak the cells and go rip it up infront of a supermarket lol me and me mate both drift so we do like the real guys do and try to copy each other and do bigger and better stuff than the guy infront its great like a tandom drift team lol
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:17 PM   #10413
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Ya dats pretty much what we TEAM SYDWAYZ do so ya its pretty cool ... is it just you and your friend that drift together(friends)? not like a drift meet but ya thats kool
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Old 10-20-2005, 04:30 AM   #10414
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Why do ypu think that you fried your diff's? Mechanical failure? or does drifting torture them that bad?
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Old 10-20-2005, 02:13 PM   #10415
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err i was running a 19 turn with a small pinion and the diffs were a bit on the loose side lol im using the steel ones ( built propper) and there fine it was just me lol
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Old 10-20-2005, 10:37 PM   #10416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony390
oh ya aries326 i cant find it... i just tried to look for it and i cant find it and so ya your not drifting for a while huh it just started raing here but rumored it wont rain anymore
here are the losi #'s 1/2 deg 9852 1 deg 9853
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Old 10-20-2005, 10:42 PM   #10417
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Default Diff Rebuilding

Ok, I've got a question on rebuilding diffs. I noticed that the method of building diffs in my TC3 manual is different from the one I downloaded online.


Method A:
The manual from online (2001) uses the diff spring on the same side as the diff bolt, sitting on top of the thrust balls, it first goes through the long outdrive then through the short outdrive with the locknut holding it in place. This version has the d shaped drive ring.

Method B:
The version in my manual (1999) shows the diff bolt with the thrust balls, it goes through the short outdrive then the long outdrive in which the diff spring sits and the t-nut holds it in place. This version has the complete circle drive ring.

My steel outdrives look like the old version wherein the circular drive rings are used. My question is, should I use method A or method B in making these two new steel diffs or doesn't it matter? Also, what advantages do the d ring shaped drive rings have over the complete circle drive rings?

I searched the forum for help on this topic but none of the posts really addressed which method was better for building diffs with steel outdrives using the regular diff rings. Thanks for the help!
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:02 AM   #10418
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Ive found from using plastic which have the D shaped ring and the steel and lightweight ally ones that have a O ring that it doesnt really matter which way, i do it from the short side cause its easier to access with the wrench if i need to tighten when racing saves taking the whole diff out to tighten or loosen. also why the hell do they use different types of ring on the plastic and steel!!??? I recieved some TC4 lightweight steel diffs today tried to build em and i cant cause i aint got any spare O rings cause there in my drift diffs

oh yea also dont use the D rings on the O ringed diffs cause as i found it DOESNT WORK! it fits together but you have no diff action at all so its a no no
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:27 AM   #10419
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Default Diff Rebuilding

PaZ, thanks for the help. That's exactly the answer I was looking for. It looks like I'll be rebuilding these from the short side.
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:31 AM   #10420
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happy to help
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Old 10-21-2005, 08:37 AM   #10421
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I think ive built my front and rear diffs both ways. And ive found i dont have to take the diff out to do any adjustments. Take off a tyre, and the suspension linkage, and put your driver in. The front is the hardest. Also just remember which side is the adjustment. Not good 2 mins before a heat, to attempt to adjust the diff and take apart the wrong side!

Most of you probably already knew this, but i was amazed by my new setup on the FT. Coming from a rubber / asphalt background, im now running carpet with foams so i was out of my element. needless to say, i had no idea on setup. Ive now gone to one serious soft setup, less caster, hardly any camber etc, 40w oil all round, and ive picked up literally 2 seconds a lap. Previously i was trying to stiffen the whole thing up to get rid of grip.... but damn! Its amazing how many times the complete opposite works better.....
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Old 10-21-2005, 10:25 AM   #10422
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[QUOTE=axle182]I think ive built my front and rear diffs both ways. And ive found i dont have to take the diff out to do any adjustments. Take off a tyre, and the suspension linkage, and put your driver in. The front is the hardest. Also just remember which side is the adjustment. Not good 2 mins before a heat, to attempt to adjust the diff and take apart the wrong side!

take some paint and make a dot or some kind of mark so that you dont have to think about what side you put it on
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:55 PM   #10423
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One more question...when you install screws in the chassis bottom for the servo, do you use flat or round hex screws and if so what size?
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Old 10-21-2005, 07:15 PM   #10424
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yes the suface is flat but the underhead of the screw is v-shaped and it is a allen wrench screw
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Old 10-21-2005, 09:15 PM   #10425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony390
yes the suface is flat but the underhead of the screw is v-shaped and it is a allen wrench screw
lol...thanks... But what size is it?
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