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Old 06-30-2005, 12:45 PM   #10096
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does anybody here have a problem with the ally under chassis screw heads stripping? i go through loads of blue ally screws in a season cause they strip and don't come out, but they are essential to go with me blue chassis si i cant go to the old ones. Anybody got any idea or is it just me overtightening them?
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Old 06-30-2005, 12:49 PM   #10097
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overtightening would cause that, as well as if your tool has a rounded tip (keep it clean sickos!) make sure your tools are not worn
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Old 06-30-2005, 12:50 PM   #10098
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Be sure to clean out the socket where the tool goes. If it has dirt in it then the tool won't go all the way in and will slip/strip.
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Old 06-30-2005, 12:52 PM   #10099
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Also, where can i get the clear sedan wheels at they looked awsome and i would like to have a set in blue for my car. Would like to find a tuning guide for this car too..mabe it will help me stoip sliding
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Old 06-30-2005, 03:14 PM   #10100
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Default Screw Stripping

One of the gurus here before helped me about before on this issue.

I was doing some work on my TC3 and the screws on the bottom of the chassis stripped on me. I had to drill some out. The guys suggested that when I put the new tranny cases in to first use a tap or a steel screw then put in the aluminum team screws. Apparently, these strip quite easily and tend to heat up and expand as you screw them in, thus getting tighter and tighter to put in then stripping occurs. I did what they suggested and it worked like a charm. I also got away from using the L shaped hex wrenches and bought some decent duratrax ultimate drivers
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Old 06-30-2005, 10:18 PM   #10101
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come on, lets type out there, SOMEONE's gotta know about these wheels??
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Old 07-01-2005, 03:12 AM   #10102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aries326
One of the gurus here before helped me about before on this issue.

I was doing some work on my TC3 and the screws on the bottom of the chassis stripped on me. I had to drill some out. The guys suggested that when I put the new tranny cases in to first use a tap or a steel screw then put in the aluminum team screws. Apparently, these strip quite easily and tend to heat up and expand as you screw them in, thus getting tighter and tighter to put in then stripping occurs. I did what they suggested and it worked like a charm. I also got away from using the L shaped hex wrenches and bought some decent duratrax ultimate drivers
Thats understandable about using a steel screw first but how does an aluminium screw expand from only screwing it in? I could understand if you held it up to a blow torch.

Sean
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Old 07-02-2005, 09:53 PM   #10103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Duratrax
Thats understandable about using a steel screw first but how does an aluminium screw expand from only screwing it in? I could understand if you held it up to a blow torch.

Sean

Friction? I really don't know to tell you the truth. All I know is that the steel screw trick worked when I installed my new tranny gear box.
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Old 07-03-2005, 03:39 AM   #10104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trx1
come on, lets type out there, SOMEONE's gotta know about these wheels??
The transparent colored dishes you're looking for are made by OFNA. They have them in a couple colors too. Tower Hobbies carries them, just do a search for "clear wheels", it'll come right up.
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Old 07-03-2005, 07:34 AM   #10105
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just to explain the binding aluminum screws for you guys.aluminum heats up very quickly and also disapates heat very quickly.the tranny housings are a graphite impregnated molded plastic which is extremely abrasive.from screwing the screw into the housing,the friction creates a ton of heat being that there is no lubrication.aluminum has a tendency to heat up and expand quicker than steel due to its properties therefore when it it expands it will more or less weld itself in place.(not really weld but you see where im going with this ).now what you can do to avoid this is to put a lubricant on the thread to minimize the friction causing the heat and expansion,use a tap that will cutt the threads into the hole instead of roll forming it with the screw,or use a steel screw which will not expand as fast as the aluminum.i,however,get lazy and just lube the screw so i only need to do it 1 time.
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Old 07-03-2005, 07:46 AM   #10106
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a good place to get all colors in aluminum screws,nuts and washers is fastener-express.com
very good prices
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Old 07-03-2005, 07:22 PM   #10107
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Default tc3 victiry

Came in 1st today with my tc3 over a jrx-s/xray/pro4 and i had tq and i ran 23 laps and they ran 22 laps! just wanted to share my victory, bcuz the tc3 is still winning! and this was in the pro class not rookie!!

L8er
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Old 07-03-2005, 09:13 PM   #10108
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thats great buddy.im putting my tc3 back together now.i missed it and it always handled so well
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Old 07-03-2005, 09:50 PM   #10109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crACkeD ChaSsiS
Came in 1st today with my tc3 over a jrx-s/xray/pro4 and i had tq and i ran 23 laps and they ran 22 laps! just wanted to share my victory, bcuz the tc3 is still winning! and this was in the pro class not rookie!!

L8er
Funny you should say that, i just did the same here in MD. I'm in the "pro" class versus jrx-s/x ray/ and pro-4's too. Of course having the BMI chassis didn't hurt
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Old 07-03-2005, 10:12 PM   #10110
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Default tc3 factory

im not running the BMI chassis. just the factory tc3 with batts moved to centerline! ill get the bmi once i really start to get faster, and then ill see if i can improve even more with the bmi chassis!!

oh ya and in 1 race i was running a 3000 and i won that race! but in the
A-main i ran a 3600!!!
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