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Old 05-10-2005, 09:57 AM   #10021
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About 2 years ago I found some really neat parts from Schumacher (sp). I think they are called 'blades'. I regularly run a 9 turn double in my car and have had no mishaps as yet. also they cut the wear down to nothing and there is no slop in the composite shafts (bones) and the diff half.

http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/produ...ecnumber=57725

Try this web page. I guess now they come on the shafts already. Who knew?
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Old 05-10-2005, 04:48 PM   #10022
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thats cool i am going to use thous thanks
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Old 05-11-2005, 08:55 AM   #10023
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When i cut out the battery place am i ablke to ru it liek that? or do i need to stifdfin it out.
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Old 05-17-2005, 06:05 PM   #10024
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What is the difference between a tc3 gear case and a ntc3 gear case? Can I use the Ntc3 gear case on an electric?
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Old 05-17-2005, 06:09 PM   #10025
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The Diff Cases are all the same. (NTC3/TC3/TC4).
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Old 05-22-2005, 10:35 PM   #10026
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Anyone interested in a Warpspeed TC3? PM me with offers if you are, but be reasonable lol.
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Old 05-23-2005, 02:34 AM   #10027
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there sweet cars handle well when set up to
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Old 05-28-2005, 02:43 AM   #10028
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G`day ppl`s,

Just after a gear ratio starting point for a 19 Turn double.

Taking the step up from a Tamiya Sport Tuned..

Does does an overall ratio of around 6.5:1 sound okay

I ran a 27 Turn Monster Stock last meet with a ratio of 6.0:1 (30/72) & the motor was just warm after a race

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Old 06-04-2005, 11:47 PM   #10029
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Default Stripping Screws

Anyone here strip their factory team screws on the bottom of the chassis that hold the tranny case? Despite using a hex driver (a cheap one from Tower), I still managed to strip a bunch of them. I had to drill them out. Unfortunately, while drilling out one of them, the bit slipped and damaged the graphite chassis a bit. Now it looks like two holes over lapping each other. Any tech tip out there to fix this? My brother says I should just throw some glue in there to patch it up after I put in the screw. Any other tips? Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-05-2005, 01:45 AM   #10030
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A good way to prevent it in the first place is to use a tap, or even a steel screw(same exact size as the aluminum ones) and pre-thread each hole so that the aluminum screws will go in and out easier without putting too much stress on their allen hex that can easily strip.......you can just put some glue like your brother said but It might not look too good... and if the holes connect, the glue will probably break at some point.......I have a spare Factory Team chassis (that I have no use for) that has had the batteries moved twords the center just the right amount that your welcome to.......PM me if you want it .................Joe
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Old 06-05-2005, 03:59 AM   #10031
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joe is right.you can tap the whole or if you dont have a tap handy i usually put black grease on the threads of the screw when using aluminum screws because the screw heats up when you screw them in due to friction.this expands the screw and causes binding due to expansion of the screw.the grease will keep the screw cool so it doesnt bind and also not allow it to bind due to the lubrication.hope this helps.
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Old 06-05-2005, 07:36 AM   #10032
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Wow, I had never even thought of doing those things you guys mentioned. I didn't know the aluminum screws expanded as you screwed them in. No wonder the binding would take place right towards the end. Thanks for the tips guys!!!


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Old 06-05-2005, 04:31 PM   #10033
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no problem buddy.
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Old 06-05-2005, 09:43 PM   #10034
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Doesn't Lunsford make some kind of "thread lubricant" in a capsule form? I bought some like that from my LHS and they do the same thing.

What's the best way to lighten the TC3 chassis?

Warpspeed TC3 chassis for sale-make me an offer.
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Old 06-06-2005, 09:16 PM   #10035
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get a BMI chassis, its a little lighter and stiffer, if u try taking away material from the stock TC3 chassis you'll end up loosing stiffness
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