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Old 04-04-2005, 03:17 PM   #9811
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Default Re: bearings

Quote:
Originally posted by tom235
when you spray out your bearings do you spray out the ones on
the wheels or do you just leave them alone
I clean all my bearings when i do it. I let them soak in my integy bearing blaster and then use a light bearing oil and them re assemble the car.
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Old 04-04-2005, 05:11 PM   #9812
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thanks
do you think it makes that much of a diff. with the 8 bearings
not cleaned out?
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Old 04-04-2005, 05:16 PM   #9813
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i know for a fact that it does, but it matters how bad they are. i know a guy that cleaned his well in the middle of a race day and accually consistantly ran 0.2-0.3 seconds quicker
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Old 04-05-2005, 09:26 AM   #9814
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the wheel bearings get dirty faster so it is much more important to keep those clean!
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Old 04-05-2005, 09:57 AM   #9815
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thanks guys i will have to try that.
does anyone have some more speed tips? i have all ready done the diff bearings and the housings and move the bat. to the center.
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Old 04-05-2005, 11:31 AM   #9816
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what kit is it. is it a factory team? because if so there is not much you can do. unless you are running on carpet. then if you want to spend the money i would look into getting an IRS carbon chasis or a BMI to look into stiffining the car up. but if your not a team car then getting the graphite converson kit would be a great start. I am selling an IRS TC3 take a look >>>> TC3 Factory Team with IRS Carbon Chasis
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Old 04-05-2005, 11:46 AM   #9817
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Default Carbon Fiber Shock Towers for Elec TC3

Ok... so I searched the archives & the only carbon fiber shock towers that I can find are made by Square R/C and those only seem to be available at Speedtech R/C . Does anyone know of any other brands or places to pick these up? I'd appreciate any leads. Thanks in advance for you help.

Adam
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Old 04-05-2005, 11:51 AM   #9818
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Penguin R/C makes them as well. You can also get those through speedtechrc
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Old 04-05-2005, 12:48 PM   #9819
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I am new to touring car racing and I have a TC3. When setting the front droop do you set it to the flat part of the arm or the dimple in the middle near the outer edge?

Thanks
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Old 04-05-2005, 12:54 PM   #9820
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Go to AE's site, and look at the manual, it will show you how to do it. You can also print it if you want.
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Old 04-05-2005, 01:09 PM   #9821
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Quote:
Originally posted by fjm9898
what kit is it. is it a factory team? because if so there is not much you can do. unless you are running on carpet. then if you want to spend the money i would look into getting an IRS carbon chasis or a BMI to look into stiffining the car up. but if your not a team car then getting the graphite converson kit would be a great start. I am selling an IRS TC3 take a look >>>> TC3 Factory Team with IRS Carbon Chasis
it is the FT. i run on black top with rubber tires.
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Old 04-05-2005, 01:15 PM   #9822
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then the Ft is great for out doors. really the only major things left to get speed are high voltage batteries, tuned motor, driving skills, and having the right set up for the track. those will make the most difference but there are still other little things such as ceramic bearings but only hard core racers use them because they dont do much, they are very expensive, and they break easily. the moral is driving skill and set up cuz they dont cost much (if anything) and they make the most difference
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Old 04-05-2005, 01:42 PM   #9823
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Quote:
Originally posted by DOTMAN
Penguin R/C makes them as well. You can also get those through speedtechrc
thanks, DOTMAN... i appreciate that... i'm checking them out now... anybody else with any ideas?
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Old 04-05-2005, 03:04 PM   #9824
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thanks fjm9898 for all your help
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Old 04-05-2005, 04:45 PM   #9825
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Default Diff Thrust Bolt Question

Hi People,

I'm building up a diff using the IRS lightweight alloy outdrives. It calls for a combination of AE parts from the lightweight kit ("D" rings) and the heavy duty kit ("T" Washer) and I have a question about tightening the thrust bolt.

Per the manual, you tighten until the spring is totally compressed then back off a half turn. However this is for the lightweight diff with the "captured" thrust retaining bolt.

When using the "T" bolt, this seems to me to give a pretty loose diff, and I'm wondering if this is correct? I know with the off road diffs, they use the same "T" bolt, and they call for the bolt to be nipped up and then backed off 1/8th of a turn.

Can anyone give me any ideas about an initial setting for my setup, using the "T" bolt?

Thanks
MIKE
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