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Old 01-20-2005, 02:07 PM   #9511
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There very nice, im running the IRS ally ones there alot like them, I found that running the ally ones especially if there the light ones are very good, very strong and light a good place to go stronger
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Old 01-20-2005, 02:12 PM   #9512
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They are cheaper than the IRS outdrives, but they may be softer, I don't know.
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Old 01-20-2005, 02:15 PM   #9513
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yea, hardcore racing do make good quality parts, theres quite a few parts i would like but it works out very expensive getting them shipped to the UK as there isnt many hardcore racing parts here
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Old 01-20-2005, 02:30 PM   #9514
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Quote:
Originally posted by kh15
what do you guys think about these?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEJD9&P=7

my outdrives now are looking a little ruff i got a rock or something jammed up in the rear out drive and it just chewed that little part that sticks out of the diff case all up
I just finished installing my new hardcore outdrives that I got from Tower, they look super (I got the blue ones) and feel real strong. They are also a lot lighter than the steel parts. my car doesnt seem as loose after installing them, I use to spin free for about 12 seconds, now I only get 5. Its probably just shimming though.

after building these diffs, they feel super smooth and rock solid. no slipping and a very smooth action, very high quality manufacturing. Probably the best my diffs have ever felt
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:04 PM   #9515
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did you pretty much follow the AE manual for building them? tighting the screw till the spring is fully compressed and then back it out a 1/2 turn?
i wish i could get my tc3 that free, i can only get about 4 seconds of free spin right now and i have shaved the diff case but im not running any shims?
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Old 01-21-2005, 05:33 AM   #9516
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Put 1 shim on the long side of the diff, that will help your spin.
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Old 01-21-2005, 08:11 AM   #9517
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Quote:
Originally posted by SA_Racer
I just finished installing my new hardcore outdrives that I got from Tower, they look super (I got the blue ones) and feel real strong. They are also a lot lighter than the steel parts. my car doesnt seem as loose after installing them, I use to spin free for about 12 seconds, now I only get 5. Its probably just shimming though.

after building these diffs, they feel super smooth and rock solid. no slipping and a very smooth action, very high quality manufacturing. Probably the best my diffs have ever felt
Since they are lighter, the drivetrain will have less inertia (momentum) and it will not spin as longs. I never understood the trying-to-get-the-drivetrain-to-spin-as-long-as-possible-thing. I guess its good to test if you have freed up the drivetrain, but only if the mass hasn't changed.

A drivetrain made of lead would spin forever, but would take much more work to get up to speed.
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Old 01-21-2005, 08:51 AM   #9518
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well said that man
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Old 01-23-2005, 12:12 AM   #9519
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1. Someone at my LHS was trying to get me to buy some Ceramic bearings for my TC3. Would that be wise?
2. TC4 diff cases will fit the TC3? What would be the advantage to that?
3. Any advantage to using the blue aluminum hex drives for the wheels vs. plastic? (Besides "Looks cooler!")
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Old 01-23-2005, 01:08 AM   #9520
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the ceramic bearings from what i hear are alot smoother and longer lasting then your standard metal shielded bearings but i have never tried them?

i'm wondering the same thing about the tc4 diff cases? because i heard that thier alot smoother and no shaving or dremel tool work is required

no chance of stripping out and yes they look very cool!
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Old 01-23-2005, 04:17 AM   #9521
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the ceramic bearings are expensive but from what i hear are very good

Ive got the TC4 cases they are the same fit as the TC3 but massivly better no need to dremel they are perfect

The Ally hexs look sweet and i fond that my foams are a tighter fit than plastic
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Old 01-23-2005, 04:50 AM   #9522
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one of the main reasons of having clamping hex hubs is that you no longer put a strain on the pin in the axle.
Too much pressure would eventually gave the pin rub on the bearing and add drag and/.or damange the bearing.

I use the atlas clamping hubs and i can tighten my wheels all the way and no binding.. impossible to do with the stock setup.

It s one of the rare pieces that "look cool" but also DO help the reliability
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:21 AM   #9523
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the TC4 diff cases are killer. I have them in my TC3 and TC4. you get a free spinning drive train with no dremel work!
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:36 AM   #9524
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while im in here....u guyz recommend any servos? if you do PLEASE POST PRICE TOO!! hehe =]
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:37 AM   #9525
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Quote:
Originally posted by PaZ
naaaa dude thats just the FT kit if ya gonna blue up ya TC3 do it properly, this is how far i got so far. Im very tempted to get the Blue BMI conversion to finish it off took me all year to get the parts this is about as much as i can get in the UK and it was a bog standard racer kit! And it has made a improvement in the way it handles it feels alot stiffer and i can get more grip out of it than my mate who has the team kit no mods added so it does improve it. what u cant see are the ally lightweight diffs or driveshafts. and the blue tape is to stop the LRP V7.1 from cummin out double sided tape is crap!

Naaah, you gotta make it RED. Everybody has blue.


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