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Old 09-08-2004, 06:42 PM   #9316
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HPI has these foam strips for the front of the micro. I used those.
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Old 09-08-2004, 06:49 PM   #9317
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The material I used was from BRP called Battery Nesting Tape. Their part number is 7546.

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Old 09-08-2004, 07:45 PM   #9318
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yeah i also use the brp nesting tape and have had good results, its cheap and works so you cant beat that
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Old 09-08-2004, 08:11 PM   #9319
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I was thinking...what about a (2) 4-40 screw with a plastic nut at the end?
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Old 09-09-2004, 12:51 AM   #9320
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Quote:
Originally posted by lazyeh
I just milled out my TC3 chassis and I was wondering what that black material is on the side to push the battery towards the drive shaft?

Aaron
Pick up an old rear arm support or two, and screw them to the side of the chassis. That's what I have done on at least half a dozen customer cars. They look very neat and hold the cells perfectly.

Have a look at the attached pic.
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Old 09-12-2004, 08:10 PM   #9321
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wow, this thread dropped down 3 pages back. Do we just let this thread die now that the TC4 is out.

Johnbull, thanks for the tip. Works like a charm
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Old 09-13-2004, 12:19 AM   #9322
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The tread may be dead but the TC3 certainly isn't.

We had 4 races this summer and son Josh won them all with his mod TC3, despite the fact that he refuses to come down and practice. The other guys may as well set up camp at the track, the amount of time they spend there testing and practicing.

I can't wait for the arrival of the TC4.
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Old 09-15-2004, 01:03 PM   #9323
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I got my IRS diff-outdrives and don't know which nut driver I need to assemble it. Will a associated driver be small enough to fit in the outdrive?
Thx!

greez, mc_rr
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Old 09-15-2004, 01:05 PM   #9324
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most likly will not fit, you should use the HG Titanium diff nut it fits right in and does not require a nut driver, if you use a nut it will be very difficult to set your diff tension

you could also buy he kit to build a steel diff (just the hardware)
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Old 09-17-2004, 04:23 PM   #9325
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Quote:
Originally posted by DRIVEN
wow, this thread dropped down 3 pages back. Do we just let this thread die now that the TC4 is out.
well its not available as of yet, so I say keep this thread alive...
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Old 09-19-2004, 12:42 PM   #9326
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Hey anybody got some extra servo and/or motor mounting screws for the TC3 lying around? I am dying to get mine up and running since I have some connectors on their way in the mail.

Oh and anybody got a good stock touring setup?
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Old 10-01-2004, 06:47 PM   #9327
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Default Rear shock tower up front?

OK, a local racer gave me some advice about running the rear shock tower up front. We were in between heats so I didn't get to chat long enough to find out why..?
What are the advantages of doing this? What else will I need to do after installing the rear shock tower in front? Should I run lighter/stiffer springs? Different oil? Will this affect ride height? What holes should be used for shocks/ camber links?

I tried reading through this thread and I'm sure the answer is in here somewhere. Could someone help me with this or point me in the right direction.

Thanks.
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Old 10-01-2004, 07:12 PM   #9328
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i dont know why its better but i know it is, i run a rear up front also and i think it just gives the shocks a better stance, i use the same oil and spring is i did with the front tower the only thing thats diffrent is the possition of the actuall shock
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Old 10-10-2004, 06:56 PM   #9329
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I was running 36/98 today with 59.5mm tires. I was looking to move to a larger pinion for some testing, say all the way to 40. I was having a very hard time with gear mesh with anything past 36. FT motors mounts. Should I be able to get a 40 with a 98?
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Old 10-11-2004, 06:41 PM   #9330
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Can anyone help me with a question on rear hubs. I was told a while ago to put losi 1 deg rear hubs on my TC3. what is the advantage. Right now I run a R2+2 rear mount,and do they go on r on right or do I need to put the L on the right to take toe out of the car. Its been a while since I wanted to make the change now I want to try it.
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