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Old 09-01-2004, 09:15 PM   #9286
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Dave,

I've got another question for you.

Saturday our track (parking lot) had a long, wide right hand sweeper leading in to the backstretch.

The car was decent enough on the sweeper- no push, a bit of oversteer. I could run it wide open unlike some others. Once the turn straightened out, my car would sway back to the right around mid-way down the straight.

So my question is, am I running the car too soft? My setup now is:

Front:
Gold Spring, 40W, #2 piston, middle tower shock mount, inner arm mount, inside lower camber mount, 0* kickup and 4* caster
stock sway bar. Stock droop

Rear:
Silver Spring, 40W, #2, Middle tower, outer arm, upper inner camber mount, 3+2, stock droop

It seems like I should be running thicker oil or maybe a swaybar on the rear. For a parking lot, it's pretty smooth, and treated as well

Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2004, 06:35 AM   #9287
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Dave.

I've put my comments in the TC4 column - and they're all good.

How nice to see a manufacturer that does it properly. Develops all the bits for years then puts them all together to make a brilliant package.

They did that with the TC3 5 years ago. Now they have done it with the TC4.

I've put a couple on back order today.
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Old 09-02-2004, 08:16 AM   #9288
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BADSIGN: It sounds like to me its a combination of a few things. If it was me, the first thing i would do is change the camber link location. If there is a good amount of bite on the track, then i would move the front camber link to the upper/inner hole on the tower. If there isnt that much bite, then i would move the rear camber link to the lower/inner hole instead. The oil may be a bit soft, try 50wt front and rear. If you arent running bladders in your shocks, you may need to swap to 60wt instead to help compensate. Those bladders make a HUGE difference in shock action. (with that said, you may want to goto red sprong front and blue spring rear) Also change the front shock piston to a #3. The kickup would be the next biggest change. Swap it to the F-2 degree block, and change your carriers to the 2 degree blocks to keep caster the same. The camber link change will make the biggest difference, the kickup/caster will be the second biggest change. The two combined will make the car better, but changed alone/separately can make it feel worse. Oil will be third, because it affects both ends of the car, with the shock piston being last, which will smooth out the front transitioning rate. A rear swaybar would definitely add more steering, so i would stay away from that until you try the other changes. The goal should be to set the actual chassis up first, meaning, any part of the chassis that affects weight transfer. Camber links control the rate of weight transfer through corners, hingepin mounts do this for the arms. Shocks and swaybars are fine tune adjustments. If you have a loose condition created by no rear toe, short or too high a camber link, or the wrong caster/suspension mount on the front (just to name a few), then you would have to goto extremes with shock/swaybar settings to compensate. If you fix the chassis settings first, then the rest of the car will setup easily, with changes easily felt on the track. This is what is meant by a "free" handling car - through the corners. The chassis doesnt "bind up", but turns efficiently and consistently. I hope that all made sense. Let me know how it works for ya!

JOHNBULL: I agree totally on the TC4. I think its a great release, one us diehards were expecting! I will not however be buying a TC4. I read on the AE website that there was little/no change to the driveline. Since i have already done so much work to the driveline of my TC3, i will be buying the few parts necessary to "convert" it to a TC4. The driveline is by far the most expensive part of the car, i have over $400 USD tied up into it. I see no need to pay for it again. I am however impressed with AE's decision to massage the car that made this sector of the hobby what it is. As always, i will be proud to put my cars on the track!

KH15: Sometimes it is best to go ahead and save a few more bucks for the better product. In this industry, its generally true what they say, you get what you pay for. Im in no way trying to steer you from buying any certain product, but just giving you food for thought. All these years in this hobby, i never got better at it by buying the cheaper product, just bought myself more problems. Remember, when you buy something like that, it is geared more for the person that really isnt into hardcore racing, if that is the case then you are headed in the right direction. There really are two types of r/c buyers, those that buy for fun, and those that buy to win. As long as you keep that in mind, you will always know what you need to buy to satisfy your needs. I personally am itching for a Traxxas Revo... i would LOVE to thrash that thing!! Can you imagine that thing 15 feet in the air off of a motorcross style jump?! My TC3 would die if i tortured it like that!!

- DaveW
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Old 09-02-2004, 09:11 AM   #9289
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Default Can't wait....

For the TC4!!!
It's good that they carried over the drivetrain(diffs/shafts etc) to the TC4. Until a FT version comes out. The TC3 reigns supreme in my book!!!
But...

I promise myself and to the RC God's I will not do this to my TC4 and just keep it stock!!! Well, maybe factory upgrades.
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Old 09-02-2004, 06:13 PM   #9290
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dave w, yea i agree but i'm only about 2 months into the electric touring car hobby and i really love my tc3 but i'm not satisfyed with the top speed i'm getting with my 19t mod so i figure i can put a lower turn motor in and take it to the local track to race, i'm not to seriouse yet but maybe one day i will be so i figured that would be a good one for weekend races and just good ol' parking lot races with friends?
as far as qualitty i dont think its gonna just break and give me horrible proformace i have read review that have said its not bad, and it has a nice traction feature
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Old 09-02-2004, 06:25 PM   #9291
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what purpose do the brp nurf wings serve???
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Old 09-02-2004, 06:29 PM   #9292
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The nerf wings are there to get your body hung up if someone taps you in the side. More trouble than they're worth
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Old 09-03-2004, 07:01 PM   #9293
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Default diff/ driveline rebuild

To All:
I'm about to rebuild my diff and possibly look into a whole drivetrain update in the process. I know how much a difference the weight savings will make (I'm an oval racer ). What would you recommend? I'm definately going with ceramic diff balls and possibly bearings as well. Any help would be great.

John: Thanks for the chassis tip. These things are so much more complicated then a pan car, yet seem less sensitive to change (or maybe noticeable would be better).
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Old 09-04-2004, 12:00 AM   #9294
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Default Your Setup

I'm just curious how come when posting a setup here, the type of motor (stock, 19T, Mod) used is not included. Does it really not matter? I mostly run stock and would assume that the setup will be different if I ran Mod.
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Old 09-04-2004, 04:48 AM   #9295
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BADSIGN: Ceramic diff balls are a godsend. If you are an oval racer then you should have great luck finding them on RC4LESS. Ceramic bearings on the other hand, i wasnt too impressed with. They were very tight to begin with, and took more runs than the stock bearings ever would to break in. Of course, they were a much tighter fit, and im sure the longer wear in time was directly connected to the precision of the bearing. I keep going back to the teflon sealed bearings, even though they seem to be going extinct. I just buzz them up with a dremel tool and some toothpaste (mothers metal polish works better, but harder to rinse from the bearing) for SMOOOOTH bearing action. (remove the shields, pack the bearing races with toothpaste like grease, use a soft cone shaped bit in your dremel, hold the outer race with your fingers and use the bit for the inner race, rinse and repeat!) Unfortunately, the factory bearings DO develop slop a bit faster.

DRIVEN: You would be surprised how close the setup will be going from stock/19T to modified. It just depends on how you drive your car... do you use alot of brake, or do you coast thru the turns? Avoiding a discussion about the best/faster driving style here, driving style would dictate a few factors when going to mod, but it isnt the whole setup. Setups have been going softer over the years, the tendency when the TC3 first came out was to add the stiffest swaybar and spring/oil combo you could get. This is true in both stock/19T and mod. OK. Going to the track fellas... have a good weekend racing!

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Old 09-04-2004, 09:53 AM   #9296
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I just recieved a Roar Binary Stock motor with a 100 tooth spur what pinion should I use for this motor, Im currently running a TC-3 with rubber tires on a med/small sized track any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-04-2004, 03:33 PM   #9297
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Default Tamiya SHocks

Hey Guys,

Anybody using the tamiya shocks on their tc3? I just picked up a used tc3 and it has tamiya shocks on it. I rebuilt them last night but noticed that the stock associated pistons wont fit in them. Should i just stick with the tamiya pistons or is there a better alternative?

Thanks,

Blake
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Old 09-04-2004, 10:40 PM   #9298
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I'm not a TC3 fan but I took some pictures of this one at the track last week. Looks awesome.

Blue TC3 pic 1
Blue TC3 pic 2
Blue TC3 pic 3
Blue TC3 pic 4
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Old 09-04-2004, 11:03 PM   #9299
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i got the new touring car mag today and they had the best 3 things you can do to free up your tc3 drivetrain and i did all three and now my drivetrain spins for 20seconds! before i couldent even get it to do 5!!!! i took the shims off the out drives, pulled the INSIDE seal of all outdrive bearings, and with razor blade i carfully shaved the edges off the top half of the diff case so when you put the bearing in that little half moon thats its supposed to sit in it falls out under its own weight, i recomend doing this!!!

Qwiglee: that tc3 is FULLY hopped up! thiers nothing left that is stock
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Old 09-04-2004, 11:07 PM   #9300
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Quote:
Originally posted by Qwiglee
I'm not a TC3 fan but I took some pictures of this one at the track last week. Looks awesome.

Blue TC3 pic 1
Blue TC3 pic 2
Blue TC3 pic 3
Blue TC3 pic 4
I saw that EXACT TC3 on Ebay a month or two ago...even through a bid on it for kicks
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