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Old 08-26-2004, 08:07 PM   #9241
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Default Re: Re: TC3 Q's:

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Originally posted by calstarjig90j
As an alternative to buying more hubs you can get the losi set screw that they use for their similar hinge pin setup. It is much larger and it will work perfectly while creating new grooves that won't strip as easily. Saves you money too. Another alternative is to buy the losi hubs. You can buy the graphite parts with different caster angles and still be cheaper than buying regular associated plastic 2 or 4 degree hubs. It's the 2 or 4 degree kit for the xxx-s. Comes with set screws also.
any part no by any chance?

Bryan
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Old 08-26-2004, 09:51 PM   #9242
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my rtr kit came with some little white disc that are replacments for the ones allready in the shocks and they have some with a number 2 on them and others with a number 3 on them, whats that about?
does a certain number affect proformance?
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Old 08-26-2004, 10:30 PM   #9243
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each disc has a different resistance for the flow of the oil through the shock..
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Old 08-27-2004, 01:09 AM   #9244
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I hear a news of TC4 will release on 12/04
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Old 08-27-2004, 02:27 AM   #9245
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Im just wondering is the TC3 as old as the B3 buggy?
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Old 08-27-2004, 06:03 AM   #9246
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KH15: Each white part is a shock piston. There is one in each of your shocks attached to the shock shaft with two E-clips. The pistons are numbered in succession from less pack to more pack, or resistance... as earlier mentioned. The number 1 piston has the biggest holes, which allows the oil in the shock to flow through these holes at a certain speed. The number 3 piston has the smallest holes, allowing the oil to flow at the slowest speed, in comparison to the number 1 piston. The number 2 piston is of course in the middle, allowing the oil to flow a little slower than the number 1, but a little faster than the number 3. This feature when combined with the different available weight oils let you tune your shocks to handle differing track conditions. Generally, the larger hole pistons are used for a track that has little traction and is bumpy, like an unprepared asphalt parkinglot. The smaller hole pistons are for high bite tracks, such as carpet. Again this is a generalization, as i am sure the number 1 pistons are rarely used by any TC3 owner. The number 2 and 3 pistons are used most, with oil viscosity from 30wt to 80wt commonly used. The "black art" of shock tuning, or knowing when to use a certain oil with a certain piston and spring on a certain track is one of the many combined things that separate a fast guy from the slow guys. I dont say that in any way to insult anyone, but it is racing, and at every race, there is one winner, and technically, the rest are losers.

If i am not mistaken, the number 2 pistons are put in the RTR TC3 both front and rear, and 40 wt oil is also in all four shocks. You can use these pistons in your shocks in most racing conditions. If anything you will change the shock oil, both for maintenance purposes, and tuning. A popular setup used with the number 2 pistons is 40wt oil in the back, and 60wt in the front, the rear having blue springs and the front having red springs. Build and bleed the shocks in accordance with the manual and you will be pleased.

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Old 08-27-2004, 08:31 AM   #9247
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wow thanks for taking the time, that cleared that up for me!
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Old 08-27-2004, 09:19 AM   #9248
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Default Wheel problem.

My front left tire, when Tightened down with the wheel nut, is now becoming locked down. As in, It will not roll. If I loosen it enough that is rolls, but is still able to hold the wheel on, it quickly comes off.

Anyone understand what I have said? I know that it is not the best explanation, but I am not used to asking for help with problems like these. I have tryed a few things to solve my problem, all in vain.

HELP ME, FOR GOD SAKES PLEASE< ANYONE WITH A HEART.


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Old 08-27-2004, 09:29 AM   #9249
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you dont have the spacer between the bearing and the hex deal that you put your wheel on
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Old 08-27-2004, 09:30 AM   #9250
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Default Re: Wheel problem.

Quote:
Originally posted by rpmmaxxed
My front left tire, when Tightened down with the wheel nut, is now becoming locked down. As in, It will not roll. If I loosen it enough that is rolls, but is still able to hold the wheel on, it quickly comes off.

Anyone understand what I have said? I know that it is not the best explanation, but I am not used to asking for help with problems like these. I have tryed a few things to solve my problem, all in vain.

HELP ME, FOR GOD SAKES PLEASE< ANYONE WITH A HEART.


Whoever helps me will get a cookie.
My guess is that you are using plastic hubs and the pin in the axle has embedded itself into the slot deep enough that the hex is now binding against the bearing. Replace the hub and it should improve.
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Old 08-27-2004, 09:36 AM   #9251
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Default Re: Re: Re: TC3 Q's:

Quote:
Originally posted by tornado
any part no by any chance?

Bryan
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it's the 4 degree graphite kit that includes c-hubs and spindles and set screws for front only.
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Old 08-27-2004, 09:40 AM   #9252
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Default Re: Re: Wheel problem.

Quote:
Originally posted by SammyXp
My guess is that you are using plastic hubs and the pin in the axle has embedded itself into the slot deep enough that the hex is now binding against the bearing. Replace the hub and it should improve.
Try also replacing your hex nuts. The plasitic inner part of the hex nut might be worn out and tightening a worn out hex nut only brings the hex adapter too tight against the bearings which squishes the bearings.
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:21 AM   #9253
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Quote:
Originally posted by Loman
I hear a news of TC4 will release on 12/04
Anyone got any news on the new car as im planning to get a new kit in the spring next year but dont want one that will be replaced every year as i need to cut back on my spending and as the TC3 has been out for so long its replacement should be the same.
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:28 AM   #9254
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hey rpmmaxxed are you using the little blue bearing shims that goes on the axle between the bearings. If not then give those a try. On my tc3 I use the shim plus a thin washer and I could crank down on the nut without binding up the drive train. You should try the trinity thin lock nut. They work really well.
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Old 08-27-2004, 01:42 PM   #9255
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Quote:
Originally posted by weekendracer_uk
Anyone got any news on the new car as im planning to get a new kit in the spring next year but dont want one that will be replaced every year as i need to cut back on my spending and as the TC3 has been out for so long its replacement should be the same.
You could get a Xray FK or T1R but both are amazing

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