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Old 07-22-2004, 02:30 PM   #9001
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Will not be. I will be in Disney. I had planned on being there but with the reschedule, now I can't.
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Old 07-22-2004, 02:30 PM   #9002
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Excuse me gents,

Thinking ablot adding a TC3 to my driving stable. Any opinions as to which kit is the better purchase (team vs. factory)?

Any building tips besides shimming the diff. housings, etc.?

Also, is it recommended to open up the batt slots to shift them closer to the center line?

Is there still a problem with one side of the front shock tower being higher or lower than the other?

Thanks for you responses.

Eric
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Old 07-23-2004, 05:55 AM   #9003
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Honestly, if I had it to do over again. I would just stick with the racer kit. You put that car in the hands of even a good driver, and they will go just as fast as a FT kit. It now comes with an aluminum driveshaft and you wouldn't believe how many drivers run composite CVD's anyway. The one real gain I see you get in the FT kit are the gorgeous threaded aluminum shocks. So I would get a racer kit and slap a set of Tamiya TRF shocks on it and be done with it.
If you feel like spending money for the FT kit, go for it. It sure is pretty.
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Old 07-23-2004, 09:20 AM   #9004
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The TRF shocks are good but if you want to save some money, buy the Yokomo shock caps. Your shocks will build the same way as the Tamiya shocks and work just as well (and I think leak less).
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Old 07-23-2004, 10:24 AM   #9005
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F1FAN: This is a pic of the chassis i was talking about. Let me know whatcha wanna do! Later.

- DaveW
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Last edited by DaveW; 07-23-2004 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 07-23-2004, 10:29 AM   #9006
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Ok. Wrong friggen pic. lets try again.

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File Type: jpg chassis mod 5.jpg (158.7 KB, 280 views)
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Old 07-23-2004, 02:40 PM   #9007
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John- As a former CGM owner and looking at maybe getting a Tc3...wanted to ask a few questions.

1. Always heard of the hand fitting needed to free up the drive train....is this a fact and what all do you have to do to get it smooth?

2. AE have thier current setups available? I see HPI, Schumacher already have their nats setups online...are AE easy to get?

Thanks

Jeff
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Old 07-23-2004, 03:49 PM   #9008
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Yes it does take some work with sandpaper and toothpaste to free up the drivetrain, the bearings arnt a perfect fit and the gears like to be ran together. But if you are really really worried about having a freed up car I would suggest the warpspeed dif cases that are allready blueprinted.

And as far as setups go, AE does get them out, and if not Its very easy by posting on blackstocks thread here on rctech and he can get ya whatever you need. Typically the same day!

Also I would really reccomend a chassie upgrade like the BMI or Warpspeed. It will make you faster, faster.
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Old 07-23-2004, 07:29 PM   #9009
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Default Racer Kit

We run TC3 racer kits, one was a RTR, just spend a minute on your setup, & you will do just as well as anyone with all that tricked out chassis, (just looking for another krutch) excuses for bad driving, spending money for nothing B.S.. motor, batteries & tires are the most important. besides driving skills.
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Old 07-23-2004, 11:04 PM   #9010
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Hi guys,

I just got a ft tc3 off ebay and the mip cvds look damage so i need to cahnge them. my question is how do i take the wheel hex off the axle?

Thanks
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Old 07-23-2004, 11:21 PM   #9011
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I use a flathead screwdriver.....
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Old 07-24-2004, 12:06 AM   #9012
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Werner
John- As a former CGM owner and looking at maybe getting a Tc3...wanted to ask a few questions.

1. Always heard of the hand fitting needed to free up the drive train....is this a fact and what all do you have to do to get it smooth?

2. AE have thier current setups available? I see HPI, Schumacher already have their nats setups online...are AE easy to get?

Thanks

Jeff
Hi Jeff.

I'm not sure I agree with you changing from the CGM to the TC3, simply because the cars are so similar. If anything the CGM is a TC3 with the weak spots fixed.

I run both the Yoke which I race myself and the TC3 which my son races so I have had plenty of experience with both. They are both brilliant cars.

Now to answer your questions.

1. I have yet to build a car of any make that doesn't require at least some hand fitting. All I have ever done with TC3 diff cases is just not tightened the screws right up. I suppose you could play with the area where the bearings sit but that's about all. Certainly nothing dramatic.

2. Set Ups. If there's one car that's easy to set up, and easy to drive it's the TC3. The factory set up is almost right, and certainly a good starting point. I have prepared so many TC3s for customers and I now set them up all the same way, and they all handle perfectly - at least on our track.

Remember that almost all today's competitive cars have TC3 suspension geometry. I measured up my SD and my son's TC3 recently and if you put the 2 diagrams over each other you will see that they are almost identical. The HPI Pro 4 too has identical geometry.

The only problem in the States is that Yoke have a very small team of factory drivers so really good info is not so forthcoming as is TC3 info. As somebody already said Blackstock and Baker's set ups are readily available and these guys are quick.

But really, in my mind both cars are ballistic so I think you should go for whatever is best in your area in terms of parts and race information availability - which is probably the TC3 anyhow !

Sorry if I've confused you even more. And just to confuse you even further I can tell you that son Josh will do identical lap times with both cars - about a second and a half a lap quicker then I do with my own car !

Whatever you decide on, I can help.
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Old 07-24-2004, 12:16 AM   #9013
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCwerTA
Hi guys,

I just got a ft tc3 off ebay and the mip cvds look damage so i need to cahnge them. my question is how do i take the wheel hex off the axle?

Thanks
pull...
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Old 07-24-2004, 07:22 AM   #9014
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CHARLIEO: I agree a racer kit is all you need to go fast, my TC3 started as a racer kit. I will however say, the TC3 can be faster with some work. It isnt about making up for bad driving. I do know people that buy things (hop ups) thinking it can make up for bad (unskilled) driving, but i myself can turn consistent laps to the hundredths, so it isnt bad driving. There are people out there that do have skill, and can seem to drive the crap, out of a piece of crap. A former friend of mine, now sponsored by Losi is like that. You can give him a Traxxas and he would prolly beat 90% of the people at the track, and he doesnt even run TC. But when he isnt in "the mood" to race, he does very poorly, his double F main results at the Nats shows this. Its honestly in "your" head. Those of us that can "feel" every slight change in the car are handicapped in a way. Instead of dropping it down and driving the [email protected] out of it, we always think of a way to make it handle better. We are driving it around the track, thinking, "damn it pushes right there, i knew i should have swapped the caster". The facts are, though, there is some change to a stock TC3 that will make the car more efficient, in result, faster. If you are telling us there is no need for anything other than a racer kit to beat persay, Barry Baker, or Atsushi Hara, then tell me, have you actually raced against them? Those guys are blistering fast, and lemme tell ya, they DO changes to their car, to make them faster.

SCWERTA: Do you have the standard hex on your TC3? Like a black block of plastic? Or are yours upgraded? I know you said FT TC3, but you never know what you get off of ebay.

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Old 07-24-2004, 05:32 PM   #9015
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DaveW : the wheel hexes are the aluminium ones. i have been trying hard not to scratch them and i have been pulling them and levering them out with the flat head screw driver, and it doesnt seem to work. it seems like they were CA'd to the axle.
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