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Old 07-21-2004, 01:29 PM   #8986
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
...
Sundays race i tried running rubbers instead of foams, but i had to drive the car rediculously smooth to be as fast as the other guys running foams, not holding as smooth of lines. On average i was almost a tenth slower per lap than the guys with foams. (incidentally, i hit fast lap of the day on rubber, only 3 tenths on the 6th lap of the qualifier, go friggen figure)...
You know - that is very interesting. Sometimes having less grip can actually make you faster since you are more careful about carrying more speed through turns, smoothness with no unecessarily rapid weight transitions, etc.
Makes you wonder how fast you could be with high grip and the same careful line.
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Old 07-21-2004, 01:35 PM   #8987
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SAMMYXP: I would have to agree with you. It is easier for me on asphalt because of the lack of traction, comparitively speaking. I guess it is my years on the dirt that helped there. I have to work harder on carpet to be as smooth. It gets easier to toss the car in and out of the corner with that much grip. My all time favorite class is 4WD offroad, electric of course. Its TC with jumps! YEAH BABY!

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Old 07-21-2004, 01:37 PM   #8988
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You guys ground down the motor mount heatsink for weight distribution purposes right? How much weight do you shave by doing this?
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Old 07-21-2004, 01:46 PM   #8989
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BLACKKAT: If i remember correctly, JOHNBULL bought his, but i dont remember who or which company he got it from from. its a few pages back, or im sure he would be glad to tell ya when he gets online. Grinding down the stock AE part saved closer to 3/4 oz. Thats alot of weight on a tweak board, especially if it puts you over the limit.

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Old 07-22-2004, 02:37 AM   #8990
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

Lots of interesting contributions since I last logged on yesterday.

SPOOL. I have the IRS one. It's an alloy one so you will need some form of cushion on the dog bones. I use Corally Assassin dog bones with Corally blades. They work fine, even with wild motors. I started out using the IRS pin cushions but found them too fiddly.

F1 FAN. We seem to have found a great set up with the spool. In fact apart from my son's TC3 which is always the guinea pig for testing new stuff, I have now prepared 3 or 4 customer cars to the same spec, and the owners are very pleased with the way they handle. The nicest thing I find about the TC3 is the fact that no matter when you put it on the track it is always right.

DAVE. I see you are using Schumacher ball grippas too. They are brilliant, aren't they. The spacing for bump steer is only necessary with the 2 deg blocks. We use 4 degree C hubs with the spool set up, and a back tower in front.

To answer your question about the fan, yes I have rounded off the chassis so that the fan blows more air at the motor. It all helps!

BLACK CAT. The main reason I don't use a motor heat sink is that according to my way of logic - which may or may not be correct, it allows the cool air from the fan to flow right along the motor can and doesn't retain any heat. The object of a heatsink is to dissipate heat but it doesn't actually get rid of it. Dave's system and mine actually blows the heat away, both outside the can and inside. With the fan blowing straight at the brush hoods it keeps that whole area so much cooler too.

Keep it up boys.
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Old 07-22-2004, 03:47 AM   #8991
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The grippa's is their number U-1704?
Is that correct for the plastic parts (ie not metall ball part)?
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Old 07-22-2004, 06:45 AM   #8992
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I'm afraid I don't have the number for the plastic parts only.
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Old 07-22-2004, 09:59 AM   #8993
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
JOHNBULL: This is what i mean about the inline schottky. It aint pretty, but its efficient using less speedo wire, and puts it out in the air to cool faster for better brakes. Did you dremel the brace that your fan is attached too so the air off of the bottom of the fan hits the motor? I have yet to curve it out for the best airflow. It will get done on the next rebuild.

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Dave,

What is that circuit board looking thing over your capacitor?
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Old 07-22-2004, 10:22 AM   #8994
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RAFFAELLI: That is a Novak schottky diode. It comes soldered inline on a GT7 with close to a mile of wire. Not really a mile, but it is inconvenient at best. I just took off the heatshrink, desoldered it from the wire, clipped the leads off of a regular schottky, and soldered them in place of the wires. The board is marked + and - for simplicity. Be sure and use a soldering heat sink to avoid damage to the board. It heats up pretty fast.

PIZZA: I wish i knew the part #, i got them when i was in Florida for the birds. Superior Hobbies there has an awesome shop. I had to buy the packages with the ballstuds. As Johnbull said, grippa cups are awesome, but scarce at best. Our LHS has had them on backorder for months. Good luck!

JOHNBULL: It made sense to curve that area out for maximum airflow, i was just sick and tired of working on that chassis by hand.

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Old 07-22-2004, 11:12 AM   #8995
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Johnbull,

I have not read this thread since March (when I started getting ready for the nitro season). Now that electric on carpet season is just around the corner, I jumped back into this tread to see what is going on with the TC3's. Your information is very valuable, thanks for sharing.

I have a few questions about your son's car.

What is on the chassis in front of the fan behind the speedo?

What is the purpose of moving the rear camber link to the chassis brace? What is the total dimension of spacers, if any, you have under the ball?

Where is the fan powered from?

Regards,
Chris
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Old 07-22-2004, 11:14 AM   #8996
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Dave, thanks. I have a Quantum 2. Diode needed?
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Old 07-22-2004, 12:29 PM   #8997
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CHRIS RAFAELLI.

I'll try and answer your questions.

The "THING" between the fan and the speedo is the Schottky Diode Dave has just been explaining about. I solder then straight onto the metal tags on the GT7. It looks neater and keeps it as low as possible. I have the same set up on my Yoke - have a look at the pic attached. Sorry about putting Yoke pic on TC3 thread !

The main reason I moved the rear camber link is because it makes removing the diff case lots easier. The geometry is the same as though it was on the top inner hole.

The fan wires go to the red and black terminals + and - on the capacitor. This way you can keep the fan running after you have finished a run and everything is red hot, and still switch the speedo and all the electrics off.

DAVE. I've just spent the last 45 minutes preparing a new graphite chassis for a customer. I did the battery job - moving the cells towards the centre, enlarged the motor hole at the bottom, and rounded off the upright for the fan to blow clear. All in 45 minutes. I'm getting this down to a fine art !

It's been a busy day today. Sold an RTR TC3 this morning, did that chassis, and built a new Yoke CGM for a customer. Just the shocks left to do.

It's 8pm now and time to call it a day.

Cheers.
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Old 07-22-2004, 12:41 PM   #8998
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Thanks!
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Old 07-22-2004, 02:46 PM   #8999
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PizzaDude, that is the correct part number.

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Old 07-22-2004, 02:49 PM   #9000
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Chris- Are you going to be at Marcy's regional?
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