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Old 02-01-2002, 02:25 AM   #886
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Whilst I agree that the Powers 3000 gives plenty of time, I find that that time just cannot be converted into speed, no matter what you do with gearing, or what turn motor you use. They would be fine for 8 minute racing, but we race for 5 minutes.

What I have heard from many sources is that Panasonic cells don't last as well as Sanyo, in terms of number of cycles. certainly I find that whereas the old Nicad cells got better with use, these NiMH cells deteriorate with every cycle. Just take a note of the voltage increase with every charge. That should mean more resistance, which is bad news. Mind you, when racing, if you can do a season with a pack of cells, that's enough!
I have several SMH packs for my TC3. Some older and some newer. The older ones I use for practice before race and keep my best packs for racing (3 packs for practice and 4 for real racing).

For my pan cars 1/10 & 1/12 I use powers cells, this is done for the need of lasting 8 minutes on 1/12 and 5 minutes with strong packs on 1/10. I prefeer to have less 'battery kick' and bolting a little powerful motor on the pan car. My powers cells come from various sources: SMC, LRP and others. Panas come from only one source: Reedy.

My SMH packs are from the last season (the newer ones are from november). I think that I don't need new packs until June or July, just in time to the big races who I plan to go.
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Old 02-02-2002, 12:29 PM   #887
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Default TC3 with solid rear axle????

Lurking on the TA website I've found some part that is for the NTC3, but maybe (I said maybe) worth some testing on the TC3 if it's fits.

The part is item no. 1704 'NTC3 F/R solid axle'.

Maybe Tony or other TC3 driver with acess to this piece can say us if it fits on the rear of the TC3 matching on the front with a one-way.

For sure if it fits shouldn't be for the heart weak people, but on condition of very high traction (carpet and some asphalt tracks) should be very, very quick....

Just only thinking, but worth some testing no?
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Old 02-02-2002, 02:05 PM   #888
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Solid axles are sort of common with nitro sedans, I had one with my serpent. You use them on very big tracks because they will decrease your steering big time. If the traction is too high it will cause the car to hop, there needs to be some slide in there.
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Old 02-02-2002, 04:45 PM   #889
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Default out drives

I have the older steel outdrives and want to upgrade especially as our track is usually tight and twisty to increase accelleration. I know I can get the AE lite diffs but what about alum. and Titanium. Any one have some specs on weights for the 3 types? I would assume the alum and ti would be quite durable but if they didnt give that great weight savings then I dont know if it is worth it.
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Old 02-02-2002, 05:14 PM   #890
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Default Hinge Pins

3/32"
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Old 02-02-2002, 07:39 PM   #891
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I just got back from so cal.
It's smooth concrete indoor track.

Since I rebuilt shock, they too soft.

My rear was dancing like crazy in every turn.

What do you guys suggest?

Current setup.

Front: 50wt, red spring
Read: 30wt, blue spring

I didn't bring shock oil so I put in stiffer springs and spacer then it tamed a little.

Do I need heavier oil to gain more traction?
Or stiffer springs, or both?

Other things are stock.
0 toe in in front.

Thanks guys.
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Old 02-02-2002, 08:10 PM   #892
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It was fun.
At least my car was faster than many other cars in straightways.
Was it because they used stock motors?

It could be that I used 20 tooth pinion for 10x2. Accelleration was impressive. I thought I could go 22 or 23 if becareful.

I can't wait to try it with nitros, last time it sucked big times.

Right nerf wing bent upward. Wow, then next time I broke right rear hub carrier.
These composites are too weak. Where are you my graphite conversion kit?

BTW, I think I saw Mr. Kinward running yellow TC. I thought he only drives offroad cars.

His driving was really shining there. Flawless, constant. His car was running like it's on a rail.

It's a shame that I missed a chance to run my car by his to compare the speed.
Straightway speed didn't look that fast.

I gotta rebuild my shocks and work the setup.

Have to find out the way to get more speed and torque.

Any suggestion guys?

Do aluminum input shaft make big difference?

Composite out drives look too weak, is it a good idea to use aluminum ones?
I don't think there's a titanium ones or cf ones is there?

Thanks guys.
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Old 02-02-2002, 09:21 PM   #893
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rcruv - You may have seen Kinwald, he does drive on-road as part of his contract.
As for the graphite parts, they are not neccessarily stronger, they are more brittle.
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Old 02-03-2002, 12:41 PM   #894
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Default Re: out drives

Quote:
Originally posted by Buda
I have the older steel outdrives and want to upgrade especially as our track is usually tight and twisty to increase accelleration. I know I can get the AE lite diffs but what about alum. and Titanium. Any one have some specs on weights for the 3 types? I would assume the alum and ti would be quite durable but if they didnt give that great weight savings then I dont know if it is worth it.
I doubt that anyone makes outdrives on titanium for the TC3. Robinson and IRS makes some kind of aluminium outdrives.

Much people and me thinks that the plastic diffs are the way to go. Simply installing you feel the difference from the first pack. One point of attention: Installing plastic diffs is dangerous for your minimun weight it removes about 40 grams. Think on it if you plan to race and don't want to be penaltied by lowering the minimum weight.
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Old 02-03-2002, 01:07 PM   #895
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Hello guys.

I'm new to this thread and have just spend the last couple of days reading through the thirty pages you guys have build up.
It was captivating to say the least.
I have read some great ideas to improve the car and hope to learn much more.

I'm driving a Factory Team TC3 and have been driving for about one year now. My equipment is as follows: FTTC3 , corally pro modified 17x2 motor, novak Cyclone TC speedo, Futaba PCM receiver, Futaba 9450 servo, batteries mainly Corally 2400 Nicad street packs.
Back here in Europe we have two national classes, modified (limited to 12 turn) and a class more for beginners limited to 17 turn. In my club the TC3 was until recently the car of choice for most drivers. However lately we have seen a few changes in the direction of the Losi XXX-S and the new Schumacher Mission.
Both cars are competitive on our winter track which is a small, very technical track on carpet (best lap times are around 9.5 sec).

In about two months the outdoor season will start up again and I'm looking forward to running again on some larger tracks. A lot easier for a beginner like myself .

For the moment I'm looking into the purchase of a Robitronic motordyno. Looking forward to playing with that fancy piece of equipment.

I also have one question for :
-> John Bull from Malta:
are you still testing those Team Orion Pro LCS systems. How
are they holding up ?
How do you mount the infrared eye on your body ?

Looking forward to learning more from you guys !
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Old 02-03-2002, 02:26 PM   #896
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Quote:
I doubt that anyone makes outdrives on titanium for the TC3. Robinson and IRS makes some kind of aluminium outdrives.
A company called titanium racing based in England makes the as well as hinge pins, ballends etc for the tc3 and others. But they (diffs) are quite expensive around 30 pounds/ 50 dollars try this link http://www.titaniumracing.com I am unsure of the weight but I will still probably go with the AE composite as they are dirt cheap
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Old 02-03-2002, 08:25 PM   #897
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I also wanted to buy ti outdrives if they're cheap enough and easy to get here.

My rear outdrives already started wearing down, wonder how long it will last. And need new tires too.

I guess, I can use ti ones for practice and composite for the race, since people don't like them for being too heavy.

I tried different springs in the rear to solve the loose rear problem.
For some reason, stiffer springs worked the best.

Indoor parking log, smooth cement covered with lots of dust.
Front 50wt, red
Rear 40wt

I think I geared down too much.
10x2 caliber
20/72 (too low?)

Motor gets pretty hot and seems too much torque.
It's fun watching it accelerate fast though.

BTW, I'm very new to TC, so correct me if I'm wrong.
Only have 2 track time on my belt and my very first racing time yet to come.

This thing is really hard to drive because only one switch controls both steering and brake not like real cars or computer games.
Such as Colin McRae rally 2.0, my most favorite game of all time.

Need to work on the control I guess.

Steering to braking and back to steering fast.
Need to easy on the throttle, 'cuz TC3 accelerate very fast.

Any suggestion for newbies on controling guys?

While I was trying the setups at the parking lot, I almost hit a guy walking by, I didn't see him and he didn't see it and surprised hell of it. Everybody else laughed a lot though.

He said 'hit the wall'. haha.
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Old 02-04-2002, 12:26 AM   #898
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcruv
I tried different springs in the rear to solve the loose rear problem.
For some reason, stiffer springs worked the best.

Indoor parking log, smooth cement covered with lots of dust.
Front 50wt, red
Rear 40wt

I think I geared down too much.
10x2 caliber
20/72 (too low?)

Motor gets pretty hot and seems too much torque.
It's fun watching it accelerate fast though.

Any suggestion for newbies on controling guys?
Your setup resembles so much for a high grip track, but you don't talk about shock positions and camber link mounting holes.

Try this:

Front:
4 Degree caster block. (stock was 0 degree)
2 Degree kickup. (stock)
2 Degree camber.
Center hole upper shock.
50wt oil.
#2 piston.
Gold spring (stock).
Camber link positioned upper and inner (longer camber link).
Droop at #6.

Rear:
2 Degree anti squat. (stock).
2 Degree toe-in. (non stock)
2 Degree camber.
Center hole upper shock.
50wt oil.
#2 piston.
Silver spring. (or blue if the rear is bottoming out).
Camber link positioned upper and inner on the shock tower.
Camber link positioned on the upper hole of the rear hub carrier.
Medium wheelbase (stock).
Droop at #5.

Important: With this setup I've played with the bump steer adjustment. I've found with this setup, that installing two washers between the ball end and the hub carrier eliminates any variation of the steering geometry. Keep ackermann at it's stock settings (as mounting guide instructs you).

I've used this setup yesterday with one-way, if you use it with front diff, the car should be very docile to drive.

Rcruv: If you're starting on this hobby, driving a 10 turn is like giving fuel to a fire start with a milder motor, like a 19 or 17 turn and get control of it with this motor, you realize that sometimes with a milder motor, you are quicker than with a hotter motor (have you tested your car with a stock motor?). Maybe most of your break loose can be caused by the powerful motor.

If your radio permits, adjust the trotthle curve to a negative value, this can give a more controllable and progressive throttle. Sometimes I've used -40% on my KO EX-1 transmitter.

Test it and say us how you feel with this setup.
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Old 02-04-2002, 12:55 AM   #899
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Buda. Titanium outdrives and other TC3 goodies. As you say Titanium Racing in UK are the guys that produce them. I have given them a big order for stuff for TC3 and MR4, including outdrives.

As you are in UK you shopuld have no difficulty getting them. They sent me samples and boy their quality is 1st class. hey are smart, light, and strong. I recommend them.

Spillertwo. ProLCs. I sold my stock in 2 days. It's great. It gives you exactly the same info as the AMB does. Worth every penny.

We had a good day racing yesterday. Son Josh won both the "A"s with his TC3, and now leads the championship by 8 points. The second JOHN BULL RACING TC3 of Julian finished 5th and 3rd too, so you could say it was a good day....that's apart from the old man's performance. I did reasonably well to finish 4th in race 1, then 4th again in race 2 only be to disqualified for being underweight. I did exactly what I preach to everybody else not to do. Change things in between races. I put on a different set of tyres - with lighter inserts, and never thought to weigh it again. What am I!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 02-04-2002, 01:25 AM   #900
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Default John Bull

Yes their quality seems great but I dont really think for a price of 30 pounds each I can justify then right now. That would be 100 dollars for new axles. compared to just less that 40 dollars from AE. The 60 dollars left could be a new batt. pack. I kind of made up my mind last night on this. If I could get an idea on how long I can expect the composite diffs to last. any help on their durability factor for mod. racing John you seem to race a lot

Last edited by Buda; 02-04-2002 at 04:55 AM.
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