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Old 07-20-2004, 09:37 PM   #8971
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Quote:
Originally posted by Smalls
Is it binding up? Is it that the ball cup is just worn out?
Try replacing the ball cup...If that doesn't work, try replacing the arm
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Old 07-20-2004, 09:50 PM   #8972
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BTW: Why do some guys use strapping tape over the battery holder if its a tub chassis?
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Old 07-21-2004, 04:21 AM   #8973
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

DAVE.

Saw the pic of your car and was about to write suggesting you fit the electrics like I did.

Then I look at your next post and see you have already done that.

Your car looks very smart. I like the ground down motor clamp. You obviously reason it out the same way as I do with the fan now able to blow cool air right across the motor. Are the shocks the AE ones with Yoke alloy caps? That's what I'm using - ever so easy to bleed and to equalize.

Have you tried replacing the steering rack with levers. I did that on one of Josh's cars but he didn't like it so much and prefers the car with the normal rack.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 07-21-2004, 06:19 AM   #8974
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@ DaveW

Thank you for your input, I really appreciate it!

On the one-way, I have always used one and I haven't really tried comparing lap times with and without it so I don't know if I'm gaining anything with it...

I'll have a look at the shock theory. I hope the weather will allow me to do some testing next week.

Again, thank you!
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Old 07-21-2004, 11:12 AM   #8975
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SMALLS: Your ballcup can pop off easier if the swaybar is adjusted to an extreme, and the link is hitting the arm during suspension travel. The ASC swaybar kit comes with two types of cups, and assumes you use the full faced cup on the arm, the open cup on the swaybar ball mount. I bought an extra set of cups, and just use the open faced cups on both ends, and havent had that issue since. Hope this does ya some good.

BADSIGN: There was a race here in VA on a particular Saturday, and then a separate race on Sunday at a different site. Saturday was rubbers (foams NOT allowed), Sunday was foams. Sundays race i tried running rubbers instead of foams, but i had to drive the car rediculously smooth to be as fast as the other guys running foams, not holding as smooth of lines. On average i was almost a tenth slower per lap than the guys with foams. (incidentally, i hit fast lap of the day on rubber, only 3 tenths on the 6th lap of the qualifier, go friggen figure) And to think i didnt bring any foams. I didnt change the setup from Saturdays race to the next, to see the difference. (club races are the only time i can try things, and race with competition to feel "pushed" on the track...if i practice on my own i end up hanging out and talking more than driving LOL) Track temp was the same from one day to the next, and asphalt from one track was smiliar to the other. The layout at the Sundays track was half the size of Saturdays track. Saturdays race i had the car to beat. Sundays race i qualified 3rd on pace with the top two guys, I was runnin rubbers. (tc3 1st, yok2nd, tc3 3rd) I had a very bad start in the main, got hacked several times, and finished in 5th. I couldnt push the car hard to make up for the hacks, welcome to racing. The following weekend i came back, same guys, same track, similar track conditions (10 degrees higher air temp... 3 on the track), same setup. The only thing i did differently was add 57mm foams. I was TQ from the first qualifier, and decided to not run the other qualifiers to give me wrench time, and to give them a chance to get fast laps. With the same track conditions and same setup, the car buzzed 2mm off of the front tires in one run. First thing i swapped was caster from 2 degrees total to 4 degrees total (and of course bumpsteer to compensate for the change), there was a huge sweeper, and that was where i was pushing the most (almost half off of the throttle to make it around) and took a few hotlaps to feel the car out. I added a half degree of front toe in to calm the car coming into the corner, slightly tightened the front diff to compensate, added 2% of negative expo to the steering (to the existing 4%), slowed servo speed 3% on both forward and return motions, and moved the rear swaybar all the way out. I had to slightly lift throttle on two spots of the track, they were hairpins, the rest was full throttle. In the main i checked out and lapped all but 2nd place. One more lap, maybe two, i would have had him. On average i was 2 seconds faster per lap than the same guys from the week before. Ill note, this is stock class, so that time was gained by making a few chassis changes, not horsepower. I wore .3 mm on both the front and rear foams, Jaco plaids and purples. Now thats a free car to scrub so little on asphalt at full throttle. The shocks/positions were not touched except for tweak and rideheight. If you run on smooth grippy asphalt, you can almost run a carpet setup for both rubbers and foams. The setup just requires a few changes from one to the other. Again, as i have said before, its different for everyone. You have to try it to see. Good luck!

BLACKKAT: They probably tape the battery strap to keep it from letting the cells move forward in a crash. When the battery gets hot, the composite strap gets "soft" and bends during a hit, letting the battery move forward. (i have even seen guys bend aluminum ones of differing manufacturers) Speedos catch fire. Batteries bent out of shape like a slinky. Its a sad sight. If the battery is already in the front position, then i wouldnt know other than to have it added as extra security. I hate that strap, thats why i use tape. (as well as tweak station issues) Have you guys seen the new Factory Team carbon battery spacer from AE? Trick.

JOHNBULL: Yep, you and i talked about that glitch quite a few pages back. That DAMN glitch. It wouldnt leave me alone. Swappin a new speedo and receiver in, and relocating them like yours was the ticket. The only difference between your setup and mine is where i mount the schottky. Mine is inline between the speedo and motor. I ground the clamp for several reasons. One, with the fan, there was no need for that ineffective heatsink, as you said. Two, it lets me tweak the car out on the tweak station easier. It was dead weight in more than one way. With that removed i have to add only 1/4oz to hit the 50oz limit, and the car is weight balanced alot better. Before with the clamp uncut, i had to add almost three times that on the left front of the car to counter balance it, which then put the car well over the weight limit. The shocks are standard AE threaded bodies with the YOK caps, which are a godsend i might add! I never tried the lever trick, i seen it on your past post, very sweet. I almost "hacked" another chassis to add the NTC3 steering kit, but instead i decided on bulletproofing what existed. The geometry change was too extreme from one set to another and i really had no complaints about the stock setup, so i decided to leave well enough alone. Ill add some pics to give ya an idea of what i mean by "bulletproofing".

OLEC: Hey man i wish ya the best of luck! Its going to rain here this weekend, so ill be inside doing motors and cycling batteries. Rain sucks, so i hope you get track time man. Let us know your findings, im curious about the one-way.
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Old 07-21-2004, 11:16 AM   #8976
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I use flanged bearings in my TC3 rack, with spacers between them, and an aluminum locknut, to be sure there is no binding or excessive play. Here is one pic.

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Old 07-21-2004, 11:22 AM   #8977
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This pic shows the parts laid out for easier visibility. The flanged bearings are for the T3/B3 steering set, and are direct drop ins with no hand fitting. You have to buy two packages (4 bearings total) to do the rack. At 15$ USD a package, its a tad pricy, but i have yet to replace them, and they are over 4 years old. Just hose them with motor spray when you disassemble and clean your steering rack of old tire rubber. Use a small drop of oil to each bearing shield and reassemble.

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Old 07-21-2004, 12:01 PM   #8978
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Ok. Recent pics of the car, for those interested. Let me know what you guys think.

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Old 07-21-2004, 12:02 PM   #8979
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A shot of the front end.

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Old 07-21-2004, 12:05 PM   #8980
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A shot of the rear end. The tag on the swaybar is the size of the bar, i got tired of measuring them to know what was what.

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Old 07-21-2004, 12:08 PM   #8981
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DaveW, What do you think of a spool? Seems like you could be agressive with it, kind of like Montoya?
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Old 07-21-2004, 12:09 PM   #8982
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JOHNBULL: This is what i mean about the inline schottky. It aint pretty, but its efficient using less speedo wire, and puts it out in the air to cool faster for better brakes. Did you dremel the brace that your fan is attached too so the air off of the bottom of the fan hits the motor? I have yet to curve it out for the best airflow. It will get done on the next rebuild.

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Old 07-21-2004, 12:15 PM   #8983
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Last pic, i promise. This one shows the length of the steering knuckle ballstud (Losi Titanium), and that i am running 2 degrees of caster, and still have a locknut on top of the ballstud. Bulletproof. You can also see im running carbon shafts, both CVD with pincushions, and the main shaft. This is what i run for 19T and stock. Sometimes on asphalt with mod if the bite isnt that great. I basically look at past setup sheets to compare past notes with track surfaces, bite, motor used, etc, and build the car as i think it needs to be for me to drive it as best i can at the track im going too.
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Old 07-21-2004, 12:18 PM   #8984
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F1FAN: Wassup Ed?? Me and a spool, i dunno. You know me, im not agressive on the track. I got your PM, when are we doing the R&D on your car? Good luck running nitro, and any other, um, things you may have in the mix. If i can help in any way, you know im there, just lemme know! Holla at ya later.

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Old 07-21-2004, 12:20 PM   #8985
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I tried a spool once without changing set up and it was more scary! Yeah you can help move to the CO
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