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Old 07-18-2004, 07:06 PM   #8941
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Bearings or bushings? Im running the plastic outdrives and heard that the bushings are better than the bearings due to bearings producing some heat and the plastic outdrives have problems with that in mind.
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Old 07-18-2004, 08:51 PM   #8942
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bearings.bushings will create alot more heat that bearings
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Old 07-18-2004, 08:57 PM   #8943
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A while back I was looking for bearings to go with the plastic outdrives and Associated told me in no uncertain terms "Do not use bearings". The bearings are ok with the aluminum outdrives but not the plastics. If you notice, AE pulled the p/n for the bearings.
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Old 07-18-2004, 09:00 PM   #8944
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
Corally drive shaft numbers:

Dog bones (pair) 79182

Replacement caps (pair) 79189

The drive shaft packet will not have caps with it so make sure you buy both.
Thanks John !

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Old 07-18-2004, 09:08 PM   #8945
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bushings on the outdrives
i have never heard that before.or do you mean in the center diff gear?
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Old 07-18-2004, 09:10 PM   #8946
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yeah they are talking about the internals of the diff, not the big ones that sit on the outdrives
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Old 07-18-2004, 09:13 PM   #8947
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ok,yes,bushings for that.i was confused for a minute
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Old 07-18-2004, 11:38 PM   #8948
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Do any of you guys lock your rear diff on your tc3? i heard some people race with a locked rear diff. how does it help??? thanks
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Old 07-19-2004, 12:43 AM   #8949
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No, I don't lock my rear diff, but I do my front(nearly) so it'll act much like a spool, but still be able to slip under extreme duress. As for the bearings thing, I found that Acer sells bearings of the proper size for the inner part of the diffs, when you buy a set of their ceramic ones for the TC3, they include those bearings as part of the deal. Seem to work fine, as far as I can tell, never had a problem with them(& still use 'em now)....
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Old 07-19-2004, 03:18 AM   #8950
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Hey guys...thinking of getting the BMI or the IRS chassis conversion kit for TC3. ...... which is better ? Is there a webby that sells this things international ?

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Old 07-19-2004, 04:57 AM   #8951
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I got the bmi and love it
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Old 07-19-2004, 07:34 AM   #8952
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Quote:
Originally posted by J-P
hey dotman

do you mean the ones under the piston??

J-P
Right, the sponge that sits at the bottom of the shock body
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Old 07-19-2004, 07:47 AM   #8953
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
OLEC: Both swaybars and roll center adjustments are a big change. Im assume by saying "higher roll center" you mean changing ballstud location on either shock tower. Ballstud changes are dramatic. Swaybars are not as dramatic, unless you are using a blade type, have your swaybar adjusted really tight (short lever point), or its a very thick one. The faster/easier the car transfers weight laterally on or off throttle through a corner (soft overall setup, hard driving, certain track layouts) the more noticeable a swaybar becomes. The ballstud change is felt all the time. It can alter the feel of overall stability, traction, and cornering speed. I pretty much run swaybars everywhere, except rough parkinglot tracks. Swaybars can be deceiving though, giving you the feel that the car is dialed, when it may be pushing horribly. Tire wear is an indicator here. If you shave 2mm off of your front foams in one run with little wear to the rears, you have adjusted your swaybars to overcompensate for another setting that needs to be changed. Caster angle is a popular one in this case. There is alot of speed to be found in making the car turn without "binding up" in the corners. Swaybars must work along with everything else (other settings)on the chassis... not just the reason it seems to be 'dialed'.

- DaveW
Thanks DaveW!

What you say makes a lot of sense when looking at how my TC3 reacted to the front swaybar (stock thicknes).
I have been strugling with not enough rear traction/rear end breaking loose without warning. But I have not been able to find any settings that would reduce this without having too much understeer.
However, with the front swaybar I now have a car that corners great, but scrubs of a lot of speed in the corners. The rear is planted though.
Tire wear has increased slightly in the front, but we run rubber tires so I guess its a litle bit harder to tell than with foams.

I am concerned however about the loss of speed in the corners, maybe I just have to apply throttle sooner?
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Old 07-19-2004, 08:53 AM   #8954
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Olec: Its kinda hard to say, not knowing the rest of your setup, and like you said, it may be how you are driving it into the corners. Are you running the battery forward? I will suggest a setup for medium/high bite asphalt that works well with TakeOff (CS27 and up) tires. Try it, and see if your car is planted with better tire wear.

Front shocks: #3 piston 40wt oil gold spring
Front suspension: F-0 block, Losi 2 Deg caster block/ Losi steering knuckle
Front shock position: Middle hole on tower, inner hole on arm
Camber rod position: Inside lower on tower
Droop: 3 (measured on the end of arm, not the screw boss)

Rear shocks: #2 piston 40wt oil silver spring
Rear suspension: F block, R 3-2 block, Losi XXX-S 0 degree hubs
Rear shock position: Middle hole on tower, outer hole on arm
Camber rod position: Inside up on tower, outside on hub
Droop: 2

Misc: Ride height 5mm, battery forward, standard TC3 swaybar both front and rear adjusted all the way out. Also, using the longer rear camber location will require longer ballcups, or a longer turnbuckle. As long as they clear the rim.

If the car has too much initial steering input for you (sensitive-twitchy, but the rear isnt loose), its the battery location. Not everyone likes it up front. You can move your camber rod on the tower from inside down to outside up, a rarely used location, but it will work, or you can try moving the battery back. The car will be faster with the battery forward, it just takes some getting used too, or some negative steering expo on your transmitter. When you add the Losi steering blocks, it will change your ackerman from the stock position. Leave it be for now, but be sure your bumpsteer is right. Your steering turnbuckles from rack to steering block should be level with the suspension arm at rideheight, this is a good neutral starting point. Losi also makes Titanium ballstuds that are longer for your steering knuckles, to be able to add a locknut and the right amount of washers for strength and correct bumpsteer. Three ASC washers, (used for the B4 buggy) ballstud roll center adjustment washers, will bring you really close. (.090 total) They are aluminum, and support the ballstud shoulder, to help prevent bending your ballstuds during wall impacts. Yes, Titanium WILL bend. LOL I run IRS diffs front and rear, the front one "slightly" tighter than the rear. This is also personal preference though. I also run the Yok caps on my shocks. I DO run the ASC foam on the bobbin, but no foam insert in the bladder cap. Again, you must experiment to see what works for you. Incidentally, if you are having a problem with your swaybars popping out of the mounting locations, use a few of your old thrust washers from your diffs (small ones) under the screws. They seem to fit just right. I could type a book on "if it does this to try this", but let me know whatcha think.

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Old 07-19-2004, 11:16 AM   #8955
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thanks dotman,

im just going to start now, hopefully i will see/feel the difference

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