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Old 07-10-2004, 09:21 AM   #8881
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Quote:
Originally posted by jdwca
My TC3.

(BTW, watch out that the antenna doesn't poke you in the eye!)



-jon
Dude check your front toe,looks big from here
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Old 07-10-2004, 10:37 AM   #8882
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My front toe on the car or my front toe that's just outside the picture?



If you're talking about having front toe-in, it's just the angle. It's really about 0* to 0.5* out.

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Old 07-12-2004, 08:33 AM   #8883
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JDWCA: You can make lead weights to fit in the triangular sections of the chassis center spine with a spare chassis you dont mind trashing, and some solder. The soldering iron you need to use has to have a small tip to fit down into the triangular sections of the chassis. Take several lengths of solder and nip them into 1/2" sections so you can drop them into the triangular shaped areas of the center spine... heat them being careful to not hit the plastic, and add more solder until you have that triangle full of solder. Move on to the next triangle until you have all of them full. The next part requires careful removal of the chassis from around the "lead weights". They will not drop out because the flux used in the solder will be very sticky and not allow it to come out without forceful removal. A little bit of time with a dremel will split and cut away the plastic, and then you have the weight in your hands. After removal, clean it with motor spray to remove the sticky flux. You may have to file each one to fit just right, but that depends on how well you heated the solder, and didnt warp or deform the chassis. It sounds tedious, but it is well worth it, placing necessary weight nearest the chassis centerline, and adding a bit of strength to boot.

Johnbull: I stayed away from the V2 series motors for the very reasons you mentioned. Good wear characteristics with (generally speaking) less HP. It seems that max HP requires a rebuild after every run. A skim on the comm and new brushes is what TC motors needs to be fast every run. A second run without a rebuild, even on the 10 turn motors nets a lot less HP and efficiency. This is very frustrating, but i guess it is all in the name of speed. I havent done lap time comparisons between 10 and 8 turn motors. But i am always faster with the 10 turn motors. As far as magnet strength, i have access to a magnet zapper, so i dont worry about that. I have noticed a sweet spot in comm size with max power and tire size. Seems a comm size of .273 works best with foams cut down below 57mm. Rubber tires seem to work best with a comm larger than that. (you say 4mm of timing advance, is that almost 20 degrees? Im usually between 20 to 30 degrees of timing) I always run a 100 tooth spur, i tried a 104 but didnt like what i had to do to the car to get it to tweak out. The 104 spur moves the motor further away from the center of the car, compounding this problem is the larger pinion you invariably need to run. There are a lot more variables than what has been mentioned. Are you running single wind? Doubles? I usually run triples on asphalt (low/med bite) and doubles on anything else. I tried single winds, but big wire/low wind motors are hard for me to get a comfortable power band to drive the car. They are much too punchy (IMO). Not to mention they are electron hungry. Whenever i goto a big event, you watch the factory guys, and there is a definite difference in driving styles. Kinwald, Francis, Mike Blackstock, are prime examples of "the car looks slow and smooth" but the lap times are blistering. Then we have Barry Baker, Craig Drescher, and other that arent seemingly as smooth, but net similar if not faster lap times. Seems that both styles affect motor choice and battery usage, as well as setup. I guess i was just frustrated in going to the "motor of the week' that everyone was running, and it made me slower. Maybe i just suck... LOL

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Old 07-12-2004, 09:40 AM   #8884
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Hi Dave.

I did some more motor testing and track testing last week and will get back on this later.

Two international wins in 2 weeks for granny TC3 again. Last week it was Jonas Kaerup of Denmark who won the Euros - the 3rd year on the trot that the TC3 won. And yesterday (Sunday) Barry Baker won the Reedy Race Europe, winning 9 of his 10 heats.

Can't be much wrong with a car that keeps winning like that, can there.

I'll get back on motors later in the week.
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Old 07-12-2004, 03:47 PM   #8885
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Default Hogdaddy...

Unless its a race without motors, I think your car will be fine spinning wise. After 2 or 3 race days, things will settle into their natural rest and your car will spin even more. But honestly... I understand that every little bit helps, but if the car spins FREELY, i think youll be fine. If it spinds but has hesitation to get it going, you should probably re-align some of your drivetrain. I replaced my bearings with teflon seals once they went bad.. and my car spins for a few seconds... nothing big...

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Free drivetrain?
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Old 07-12-2004, 07:49 PM   #8886
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Default Helpful parts for FT TC3???

I am getting my FT TC3 soon and had a few questions. I will be racing stock

1. Are the aluminum or titanium outdrives helpfuk? Are the composite ones good enough or should I upgrade?

2. Is the aluminum spur adaptor a good investment?

3. Would a fan be worth it for a stock motor or is the heat negligible? I just feel that with a fan you can gear it higher.

4. How are the aluminum body posts? I saw blue ones from yokomo that are for the top of the posts and thought that these might me nice.

Let me know your thoughts. Thank you in advance.

Chirag
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Old 07-12-2004, 07:58 PM   #8887
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1. in stock there's no reason to use them, the plastics are much better

2. I don't see any need for it, my spur has always spun pretty true with the stock graphite part...

3. Some people would use a fan, again i don't think it's necessary and don't use one, but then i never have, i guess it could well help

4. I'd say there are definitely more important and useful parts to get before bling bodyposts

the only option parts i use on my car are a oneway, brp swaybars (although the kit ones are fine, i just happen to already have the brp ones that i got for a previous team kit), and some tuning parts like castor blocks and springs. I also have a CF rear shock tower, but only because it came with a car i bought for spares, definitely not a must-have part.

Other than that i don't think the car needs any option parts. Some people will tell you you need aluminium input shafts and stuff, but i don't see any need, the car is fine in kit form

Hope that helps
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Old 07-13-2004, 05:24 AM   #8888
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Talking TC3 still rules

2004 EFRA

electric cars racing while raining? how is this possible w/o short circuit?
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:19 AM   #8889
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Spoon: The speedo and receiver would be the most vulnerable, which seems to be protected. Most high performance servos are water resistant. The battery wouldnt be an issue unless it was totally submerged, even then i doubt it would be much concern. The motor would be fine, if anything the brushes would break in a little faster! Old R/C timers will tell ya that they used to break in motors in a small cup of water with a 2 cell battery pack. Been there, done that. The rest of the car might have a problem with rust here and there, but other than that it could very well be run in the wet.

Johnbull: Ok man, ill do a little more research on the dyno, and get back to ya with my findings.

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Old 07-14-2004, 12:45 AM   #8890
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Last edited by billtc3; 07-16-2004 at 02:23 AM.
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Old 07-14-2004, 12:46 AM   #8891
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haha, the trusty tc3 is still the fastest submarine on the market!!

what is that big black circular thing over jonas' electrics? (3rd pic down in above link)

interesting to see the milled chassis braces as well as 5th & 6th bodyposts...
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Old 07-14-2004, 03:48 AM   #8892
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I just read on the X-RC Magazne that TC4 will debut on comming world championship race. WOW!!!
Does any one have any more info on this new car?
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Old 07-14-2004, 06:13 AM   #8893
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There's clearly something in the pipeline but AE aren't letting anything just yet. I talk to Craig Drescher quite often but he's not giving away any secrets.

Certainly "old granny" is still the car to beat. A third consecutive win at the Euros 2 weeks ago. Another win at the Reedy race last weekend. Let's see what's going to happen this weekend at Oregon.

I'm just as keen to see whatever it is they have up their sleeve as you guys are, and if I know AE, it will be another winner.
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Old 07-14-2004, 06:16 AM   #8894
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rory
haha, the trusty tc3 is still the fastest submarine on the market!!

what is that big black circular thing over jonas' electrics? (3rd pic down in above link)

interesting to see the milled chassis braces as well as 5th & 6th bodyposts...
I am sure that the black circular thing over Jona's electronics was to keep water from hitting his ESC. From the reports that I heard the LRP Quantun 2 is really not all that waterproof as many of them were blowing up that weekend.
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Old 07-14-2004, 06:21 AM   #8895
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As if the Quantum Comp2 needed any help from water to blow up... its my understanding they do it well all on their own! A racin buddy and close friend of mine has one, and loves it... no problems to date... but he runs stock. I doubt a monster stock will pull the ghost from a Quantum Comp2. Anyone ever seen a speedo on fire? Impressive.

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