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Old 05-12-2004, 05:04 AM   #8566
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I had a story to go with that but to make this story short, I have learned that when you are in the lead, You can just drive. But if you are not in the lead, you began to race. And racing leads to mistakes. That is the lesson I learned and try to race by day by day. I consider myself a good, clean driver, but I tend to race when I am not in the lead. That is where I make mistakes.
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Old 05-12-2004, 07:11 AM   #8567
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wency_TA03R-PRO
Yup! you said it right bro and addition to that top of the line electronics its a factor to consider in terms of top end speed.
Wency: it is more important to have track time!!! People can whoop up your ass even with a Mech Speed Control against your GT7 (same motor that is)! So hope to see you in the tracks!! Nuff talk/post lets Race!!!!!
Lemuel
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Old 05-13-2004, 10:25 AM   #8568
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Hey guys,
Wondering if you can help me with this one. I have just got a 10x3, and I was wondering if you could advise me how to gear it to last 5 mins?? I have played around, but I can't find a base gearing, so I was wondering if you could help. Its a reasonably flowing track, but I'm not overly sure on the straight length...

Cheers for your help
Crashmaster
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Old 05-13-2004, 10:36 AM   #8569
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crashmaster
Hey guys,
Wondering if you can help me with this one. I have just got a 10x3, and I was wondering if you could advise me how to gear it to last 5 mins?? I have played around, but I can't find a base gearing, so I was wondering if you could help. Its a reasonably flowing track, but I'm not overly sure on the straight length...

Cheers for your help
Crashmaster
That depends of what brand of Motor. How big is your track? is it flowing? Technical?
Usually the correct way to choose the gearing is on the main straight where you run, you should have reached the maximun speed 3/4ths of the lenght of the main straight.
or
start with a final drive ratio of 8.2(72/22) and adjust from there.

Peace and Happy Racing!
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Old 05-13-2004, 12:11 PM   #8570
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Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
That depends of what brand of Motor. How big is your track? is it flowing? Technical?
Usually the correct way to choose the gearing is on the main straight where you run, you should have reached the maximun speed 3/4ths of the lenght of the main straight.
or
start with a final drive ratio of 8.2(72/22) and adjust from there.

Peace and Happy Racing!
Its a Peak Stratus R. The track itself is quite large, but the layout has around 20 different configurations, so I just really need a base gearing so I can adjust acording to the track layout.

Cheers

Crashmaster
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Old 05-13-2004, 05:20 PM   #8571
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Quote:
yup Lunsford makes hingepins, and they rule! I put them on my TC3 and haven't bent one since!
i have the lunsford ones too, i bent 5, all in front... than i stopped hitting things and havn't bent any since.
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Old 05-14-2004, 12:32 AM   #8572
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CRASHMASTER. Greetings from Malta.

Gearing with a 10 turn motor. Start at about 8 to 1.

Good luck.

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 05-14-2004, 04:28 AM   #8573
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What do you guys recommend- Carbon Fiber Shaft/Aluminium Shaft?

Jon
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Old 05-14-2004, 04:41 AM   #8574
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hi i would go with a carbon drive shaft instead of an aluminum one just because there a lot lighter and therefore there is a freeer drive train
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Old 05-14-2004, 04:46 AM   #8575
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Default equal..

the CF fiber is like 4.2 grams heavier or something... barely noticeable..

I use both and thry seem fairly equal to me.. the CF is a little bit noisier, but it looks better.
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Old 05-14-2004, 04:52 AM   #8576
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lol, okay thanks for replies.
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Old 05-14-2004, 05:19 AM   #8577
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Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
Wency: it is more important to have track time!!! People can whoop up your ass even with a Mech Speed Control against your GT7 (same motor that is)! So hope to see you in the tracks!! Nuff talk/post lets Race!!!!!
Lemuel
OK.. ready as you are bossing!!
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Old 05-14-2004, 02:06 PM   #8578
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ok ....

MC_RR, Bubbles TC3 and Dave W

on the subject of Hinge Pins ... I dont use Assc. or Lundsford ... I wen to My local craft store and picked up some 3/16 piano wire and cut it to length ... best parts .... stronger smoother and I got 8 full sets (inner and outer) and a few extras from the package I bought .. and it was $1.50 and about a hours worth of work ... lots cheaper than 8 sets from lundsford or assc.

for the ball cups .. I use the standard (3/4 of an inch) ball cups on all places of My tc3 even teh steering ... using these on the steering will limit you to I believe 1* of toe out with the Lundsford turnbuckles ... but I have never even running mod had over 1* of toe out ... I pretty much stick with 1/2* or less of toe out or in ... as far as the schumacher ball cups ... never seen them run around here .. but then not many places in this area carry schumacher ...

chino

if I find a good setup for foam on asphalt I will post it here .. I am looking too .. Dave W gave me one to try for rubbers ... I might start there and see how it goes ...

have fun racing everyone ...
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Old 05-14-2004, 02:10 PM   #8579
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Drive shafts ....

have both CF and alum in My cars before .. if your runing hotter than a stock motor go for the alum. shaft ... you will save money in the long run .. if you have a cf shaft .. keep it .. from what the local hobby shop guys are saying they are out of production and will become scarce but then .. I have all alum. now ..

10x3

havent heard of the stratus r before ... but heres how I set Mine up ... for a trinity D6 10x2 ( the twisted stack model and 4380 hard brushes ) on a TC3 I set the roll out around .73 ... for a Reedy Kr 10x2 ( big comm also add some spring tension helps the brush burning issues ) on a TC3 I set the roll out around .79

have fun racing .... and remember its a hobby ... with toys cars


Last edited by roddude65; 05-14-2004 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 05-15-2004, 12:12 PM   #8580
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As for the driveshafts. I hate the aluminum one, all I do is bend it. I put my cf one back in and havent had any problems.
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