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Old 04-15-2004, 08:40 AM   #8401
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Quote:
Originally posted by micros_rock
RCBoyz.com sells the threaded shock kit for $39.99, which is the cheapest I've seen.
Really? I didn't know that! Thanks for posting. RCBoys does good business. I really like them.
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:40 AM   #8402
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
Hi friends.Greetings from Malta.

FANS

With the hot temperatures we race in in Malta a fan is a must.

Here's how I run it on my son's championship winning car.

Incidentally this car won all 3 finals at last weekend's Kelloggs Easter Cup, breaking lap and race records in the process.

To the fella that asked about keeping diffs in one piece: get a set of IRS alloy diff halves to replace the plastic ones. You'll never touch them again.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
Johnbull...where did you get the motor clamp?
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:58 AM   #8403
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Just finished reading all 280 pages of this thread. It was actually at 240 pages when I started reading! I just thought that was an accomplishment worth sharing, haha.

Quick question: (And I'm positive this hasn't been covered in this thread yet) Do the steel outdrives call for a longer diff screw than the plastic outdrives? I've seen a few conflicting part numbers.
The diff bolt that comes with the thrust washers (6573) is 3/4" long and the diff bolt that comes with the T-Nut thrust bolt (6575) is 1" long.
Also, I understand there are two different sizes of internal bearings and bushings that have been specified for the diff over the years, and one set has been obsoleted. Which is the most recent?

Last edited by SammyXp; 04-15-2004 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:06 AM   #8404
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Those are good questions, i usually just buy the steel diff kit to make sure I have everything that is supposed to be correct. I am now running IRS alu diffs, and i like them alot. The screws and nuts need to match on the steel diffs, also maike sure u note that everything must be put together with the correct bearings. i think they are different sizes, but I am not sure as to what size they actually are.
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:08 PM   #8405
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I just bought a TC3 and was wondering if you were to buy a new stock motor right now, what would you buy. I want to pick one up this weekend. I'm open to suggestions. I'd like to pay about 100$ canadian for one. That should get me a nice motor.

Eric.
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:11 PM   #8406
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Oh god. $100 Canadian?! Thats crazy! Anyone charging $100 for a stock motor is trying to rip you off. Just go with the Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Pro motor. It is the most popular stock motor for touring cars these days. It is really a great motor. You probably can find one for $50 canadian brand new.

-etzkev
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:18 PM   #8407
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Dude ill get u 5 NIP Motors (monster stock) for 500$ shipped!

Nah just messing If you woulda told me before i was selling stock motors Very good cond for 10$ monsters 6$green machines W/ brand new 767's brushes....

You can find good deal on here.
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:29 PM   #8408
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Ariel, do you wanna hook me up with any Monsters for a good price??? I do really need a new motor. Let me know man! Im gonna get on aim now.
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:35 PM   #8409
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Default New Stock Motor

I'm simply looking for something of quality. Something fast and reliable. I've always had hand me downs for cheap here and there and I'm considering buying a new motor for a change. Looking for something good.

Eric.
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:49 PM   #8410
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My opinion stands! Go with the Monster!
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Old 04-16-2004, 02:02 AM   #8411
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

JAVA & DOTMAN.

The motor clamp is part of a Fastrax optional item. A proper heatsink comes with it too.

I haven't used the heatsink because I let the fan do the work of cooling the motor and don't want to retain the heat on the heatsink. The fan should blow through and over the motor, and by my understanding that should be enough.

Put it this way, we run 8 turn motors in our hot climate. This car is always the quickest mod touring car and we always end up with plenty of power in the cells, even after 5 minutes of racing.

ROVIC.

The reason for the different mounting of the rear camber link is simply to ease removal of the rear diff cover. With this system all you need remove is the 6 screws retaining the cover, and 1 shock screw to lift the case off and get at the diff.

There is a spacer under the ball joint which can be varied to alter the rear roll centre but at present it's position is similar to the top inner hole on the tower.

What I have done is played with spacing under the suspension mounts so that both front and rear lower arms run parallel to the chassis - no kick up or antisquat in other words. It seems to work very well that way.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 04-16-2004, 05:06 AM   #8412
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Quote:
Originally posted by etzkev
Ariel, do you wanna hook me up with any Monsters for a good price??? I do really need a new motor. Let me know man! Im gonna get on aim now.
Yea dude Ill hook you up wit my Current Raceing Motor by XS. 15$-10$ But i gotta get my new motors in before i sell you it.
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Old 04-16-2004, 10:09 AM   #8413
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Quote:
Originally posted by True R/C Racing
Yea dude Ill hook you up wit my Current Raceing Motor by XS. 15$-10$ But i gotta get my new motors in before i sell you it.
Alright, that sounds good. I'll talk to you on AIM sometime about it.

-Kevin
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Old 04-16-2004, 04:30 PM   #8414
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Default Has anyone tried a reciever battery in their TC3 for extra runtime.

Hi and greetings from beautiful New Zealand,

I have been running a reciever battery in my car (mod class at a high level) for a few meetings now but I am still undecided if it is helping with extra run time or not.
Has anyone tried this before?

Darren
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Old 04-16-2004, 06:02 PM   #8415
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would there be any negative impacts by cutting the heat sink part off the motor clamp? (i still have the black steel one) i run stock on a tight track. any info would be appreciated. thanks.
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