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Old 04-09-2004, 04:26 PM   #8296
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Default Re: TC3 Motor Cam Loosening

Quote:
Originally posted by rinkrat99
Hi all,

I had some problems last night running on carpet where my Cam would loosen and thus cause the gear mesh to be tight to the point the motor was smelling burnt.

I added a piece of double-sided tape under the cam and this worked but what about a longterm fix?

What does everyone else do?

Thanks
Do you mean the motor clamp is not holding the cam tight enough, or do you mean that the screws that hold the cam to the motor come lose?

If the screws are coming lose, then try some different screws.

If the motor clamp is not holding the motor cam tight enough, you could file down the chassis to make the clamp, clamp tighter. My friend had somewhat of a similar problem, he filed the chassis down, and it solved his problem. Scott could be of more help in this area...
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Old 04-09-2004, 04:32 PM   #8297
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I had aluminum rear arm mounts. I didn't like them. The toe in and anti squat were way different and the car handled like poopoo. They did have a cool feature. The hinge pins rode in delin balls that could be replaced. So, instead of the mounts breaking or getting bent, the balls would break or pop out and could be replaced.
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Old 04-09-2004, 07:26 PM   #8298
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dougnuts55
Does anyone make aluminum rear arm mounts.

Doug
I use the Ones From SQUARE! If you do not like Aluminum and an Aftermarket kind'na guy, you can Get TobeeCraft DELRIN Rear Arm Mounts at SPEEDTECH. Just waiting for my SQUARE mounts to break before I replace them!
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Old 04-09-2004, 08:12 PM   #8299
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Quote:
Originally posted by s2
ive heard the term 'spool diff' what is this? is it like a locked diff? what are its effects on the cars handling?

Stew
Yes, this is just a solid front axle/diff. The effects of the car's handling tend to make the car easier to drive, but you lose a considerable amount of steering. Although on-power you have the same amount of steering as you would have with a one-way. Off-power the car will not "rotate" as well as a car would with a one-way. The good part about having a Spool is that you will always have full braking abality's, and suposedly cleaner driving.
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Old 04-09-2004, 08:24 PM   #8300
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Hey Bubbles

The cam is moving due to the motor clamp not holding it tight enough. I replaced the hex screw on the non-spring side and it helped but it seems the spacing between the chassis and the cam is a hair too large.

Why would filing the chassis help? Friction? Or do you mean file the area where the screws from the motor clamp come in contact with the chassis?

Thanks
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Old 04-09-2004, 11:39 PM   #8301
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The section of the carbon chassis, where it comes in contact with the motor clamp. This could be filed down in order to provide a tighter clamping effect. My friend Scott performed this and has had no problems since...
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Old 04-10-2004, 07:29 AM   #8302
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Is it true that some people put tooth paste on the ring and pinion gears on there car and run it for like 10 minutes to bed them in (I saw this on the team orion forum)???

Cheers
Crashmaster
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Old 04-10-2004, 11:18 AM   #8303
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Hi,
Sorry bout the double post, but I only just remembered this part...
I'm now running V2 front arms with the rear shock tower on the front, but when I put the shocks in the outer hole, the shocks catch the block carrier. How can I stop this front happening
I know this has already been on this thread before, and I have read it before, but quite frankly I can't be bothered to read through 277 pages to find it... just a lazy person

Cheers
Crashmaster
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Old 04-10-2004, 11:19 AM   #8304
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crashmaster
Is it true that some people put tooth paste on the ring and pinion gears on there car and run it for like 10 minutes to bed them in (I saw this on the team orion forum)???

Cheers
Crashmaster
I'd like to know the answer to that one!!!
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Old 04-10-2004, 11:23 AM   #8305
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Tooth paste??

There's the link...

Crashmaster
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Old 04-10-2004, 01:42 PM   #8306
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Although I have never heard of putting the Toothpaste on your pinion and spur, I have heard of putting toothpaste on your bushings and running an arm in your motor to break in the brushes. I do that myself. Therefore, putting toothpaste on your spur makes sense to me.

-etzkev
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Old 04-10-2004, 03:56 PM   #8307
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Default Hinge Pins..

Hey all, just wondering what company you are using for Hinge Pins on the TC3.

Also, do you polish them and with what kind of polish?

Thanks....
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Old 04-10-2004, 04:10 PM   #8308
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Im using the standard associated ones, i place mine in a drill spin them up and use about 1000 grade silicon carbide paper on them until they are nice and shiny.
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Old 04-10-2004, 06:37 PM   #8309
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Default Factory team pins

Blackstock says he runs the new Factory Team polished pins from A.E. They go for $10 but they are already polished and are made out of better material. Mike claims he has not bend one of these new pins. Look on the A.E web site for the part number, its under the TC3 Factory Team section. I just got mine this weekend they are nice but I have not run the car yet to see how they hold up. I'll let you know as soon as I can.
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Old 04-12-2004, 01:05 AM   #8310
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crashmaster
Is it true that some people put tooth paste on the ring and pinion gears on there car and run it for like 10 minutes to bed them in (I saw this on the team orion forum)???

Cheers
Crashmaster
Many people do this on Tamiya M-series cars to make the drivetrain VERY freeeeeee. It tends to make the car slightly louder than stock, but the gears are perfectly "grooved"(they mesh perfectly). From what I have heard, it is not 10minutes, more like 10hours. But then again, I could be wrong...

As for the shocks, friends have had the right "C" carrier catch the right front spring along with the spring "cup"(I forgot the exact name of this part. Hey, it's late here in California. hahaha). To solve this, they filed back the right "C"carrier for more shock room.
They were also using the 4degree carriers.
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