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Old 03-04-2004, 04:51 PM   #8071
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Niftech sells an extraction tool. www.niftech.com. Pin cushions suck though. I use the Niftech swivels. They're a little pricey but they really last. Pin cushions get chewed up really quick in my opinion. Especially if you use a spool
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Old 03-04-2004, 08:22 PM   #8072
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I am sure this has been discussed before, just curious what hop-ups you have installed on your TC3.

I just purchased a new Factory Team, so I have all of the hop-ups that came with the kit in addition to Warpspeed Transmission Cases and Yokomo Hex adapters.

I am thinking of getting:

Irrang Aluminum Input Shafts
Irrang Aluminum Spur Adapter
Acer Ceramic Bearings.

Thanks....
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Old 03-04-2004, 08:27 PM   #8073
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Default Re: Changing to pin cushions

Quote:
Originally posted by Ian Shepherd
Guys

Does anyone know how I can get the standard pins out the FT CVDs to change to pin cushions. Unfortunately I only have a pair of pliers and can't get them out Is there any way to loosen them?

Cheers
If you drill a hole in a thick piece of aluminum just slightly larger than the pin you can put one end in the hole and drive it out with a punch.
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Old 03-04-2004, 10:25 PM   #8074
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What range of downtravel do you guys recomend for rubber tire-stock racing on carpet?
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Old 03-05-2004, 05:35 AM   #8075
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Quote:
Originally posted by wolfeman09
I just purchased a new Factory Team, so I have all of the hop-ups that came with the kit in addition to Warpspeed Transmission Cases and Yokomo Hex adapters.
I am thinking of getting:
Irrang Aluminum Input Shafts
Irrang Aluminum Spur Adapter
Acer Ceramic Bearings.
Thanks....
Aide from those, you could invest in RPM Bumpers for the TC3
4 degree C-hubs from AE or 6 degree c-hubs from LOSI
Use Losi Knuckle Arms
Use RPM Ball Cups (as soon as the AE ones start popping out)
Buy AE Springs ( fpor tunning)

and if you have extra-get a warpspeed upper deck!!

Peace and Happy Racing!
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Old 03-05-2004, 03:31 PM   #8076
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DROOP: It is best to have more than less. If droop is set to give you less downtravel than necessary per track conditions, you will have an ill-handling car no matter what you do elsewhere for tuning. Be safe than sorry and always have a little more downtravel than you think you will need.

PINCUSHIONS: You can use a piece of wood (2X4) with a hole drilled slightly bigger than the pin, and a small tap-hammer to remove the pin, and also to install the pincushions. There is less chance of damage to the dogbone using wood over aluminum, although both will work. The press is good too, but the wood and hammer are faster than FedEx! I agree with DOTMAN about the Niftech swivels, they far outlast the pincushions when installed in a one-way or steel/aluminum outdrives, and leave less wear on lightweight outdrives of all types. I use both the pincushions and the Niftech swivels, just depends on the race. If i am using aluminum dogbones, i use the swivels (for Modified/one-way/spool or high bite tracks). The composite dogbones get the pincushions for stock class/plastic outdrives.

TC3 UPGRADES: Ceramic bearings are a little finicky, the kit bearings will last longer in the same conditions... at least in my experience. They are something i add only for big events. The other stuff mentioned is great for purchased items, but getting your chasis cut to place the batteries closer to the center is one of the best hop-ups you can do. Someone mentioned the Warpspeed upper deck, i hear the lower deck has the batteries moved closer inline for you already, so that might be a good purchase, if you dont feel like cutting your own chassis. I recently purchased new stock TC3 tranny cases from my LHS (this week), but only after close inspection. The mold seems to have been altered or refined, the "new batch" of cases assemble with no outdrive bearing pinching or binding. You can look and see where the mold no longer leaves excess plastic where the outdrives stick out of the case ( this resembled a "sag" in a paintjob), and the area where the outdrive bearing sits is clean with no excess plastic that needs trimming. Some previous cases were also not fully formed, the upper halves missing plastic where the screws went through to hold it to the lower half. I have some of the older cases and can take pics to show you what i mean. The only remaining issue is strippage. I solved that by not using aluminum screws in the cases and replacing them with longer steel screws. Aluminum threads wear with use, steel doesnt. I installed longer screws coming in from the bottom of the car going into the cases, and longer cap head screws (4) holding the cases together. The screws actually make use of all the threaded area the case provides. If anyone wants pics and sizes of screws, let me know.

- Dave
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Old 03-05-2004, 05:53 PM   #8077
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Default Steering Servo

Included with my JR XS3 radio system was the Z590M Metal Gear 85 oz/inch .15 sec/60 servo that I'm currently using in my T-Maxx monster truck. Along with the FT TC3 I'm building now, I purchased an Airtronics high speed, 200 oz/inch metal gear servo. My question is; Would the Z590M be sufficient in the FT TC3? It would really be sweet to use the Airtronics in my T-Maxx.
I love both so if your opinion is bias towards the TC3... give it to me. I do plan to race.
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Old 03-05-2004, 06:42 PM   #8078
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I have used the 590m in my tc3 for a while its a good servo fast and it performs flawlessly. But the case is weak. I have 2 of them sitting here now waiting for new cases as I broke both in 3 weeks and I didnt crash hard either time.
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Old 03-06-2004, 10:38 PM   #8079
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CGM
The cut outs in the Yoke CGM chassis, is a nice modification to do in the TC3 Graphite Chassis! It will surely help in cooling the motor and bats!

IF and WHEN Associated come out with a new shaft car or modify the current chassis, I hope they copy the motor mount in the CGM. It will surely, prevent the chassis from tweaking due to the HOT motor.

The CGM has a ot of similarities from the TC3. And they even use a NTC3 like steering rack.

Like what the others have said, a lot of new cars here and there but they still keep on coming back to the TC3! Whatta car!!!!

Peace and Happy Racing!!!
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Old 03-07-2004, 10:15 AM   #8080
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For all those useing TRF shocks on your TC3s, i take it you have to use the longer style end on the bottom of the shaft to make them longer, otherwise you are limited to stupid amount of droop correct?

thanks

Tarnjit
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Old 03-07-2004, 11:06 AM   #8081
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i have that very problem, no long ends so when my tires get real small im down to about 2-3 droop in the rear, the front is never a problem
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Old 03-07-2004, 11:10 AM   #8082
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What ends are yoou guys using on the TRF shocks? Im using associated ends and spring cups I adjusted them so they are the same length as the associated ones were.
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Old 03-07-2004, 11:16 AM   #8083
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On my TC3 I've been playing around with a Reedy Kr 10x2 on a medium size track and have noticed that a sweet spot for gearing is needed for that motor. What kind of rollout are you guys using. Notice any signicant difference between the 10x2 and a 10x1 Kr?
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Old 03-07-2004, 11:49 AM   #8084
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phatt- i am using the stock tamiya ends with the ball cup things on the arms, the short tamiya ones becuase i cant seem to find any longer ones
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Old 03-07-2004, 01:07 PM   #8085
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How long do you let Paragon soak into you foam tires before you wipe it off?

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