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Old 03-02-2004, 06:34 AM   #8041
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I have lowered th roll center .050 fr & r and it changes the FEEL of my TC3 drastically.
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Old 03-02-2004, 06:49 AM   #8042
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Could you be more specific about the "feel"?
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Old 03-02-2004, 07:07 AM   #8043
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Blackstock
Yes The F-block in the rear....



Mike
Is this the F Block from the FRONT of the car? If so, what does this do by putting it in the rear.

And I am assuming the block with 2 screws and not 3. I really dont know any other way to describe the part, sorry.
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Old 03-02-2004, 07:11 AM   #8044
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Yea the f-block from the front in the rear..


This is used with the 3+2 in the back to give the car a 1.5 degree's toe in and lower the hinge pins some to loosen the car up a bit for high bite track..

We only do this for carpet racing only .....


Hope this helps

Mike...

Quote:
Originally posted by wolfeman09
Is this the F Block from the FRONT of the car? If so, what does this do by putting it in the rear.

And I am assuming the block with 2 screws and not 3. I really dont know any other way to describe the part, sorry.
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Old 03-02-2004, 10:41 AM   #8045
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Default Local club race at Notre Dame

Hey all,
Our local club is putting on a race in a car show at the University of Notre Dame. (South Bend, Indiana) If anybody is interested, here is the entry form.

http://www.lapazraceway.com/docs/cal...gistration.pdf

A few details:
Indoors
Free ticket to car show
Ozite Carpet.
Oval, roadcourse and "carpet" offroad track.

You can also email me for more information.
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Old 03-02-2004, 01:24 PM   #8046
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I'm in the process of building my FT TC3 and had a couple questions:

1) What is the minimum droop setting? At this point, following the instructions (I have the car pretty much together - just finished installing the shocks) I have my droop set, and I have NO travel in the front shocks. How much travel should they have?

2) While I don't have tires yet, it seems to me that my driveline is VERY sticky. How freely should you be able to rotate the drive shaft without tires being on the car (motor out of course). Should it spin on it's own for a rotation or two or should it just stop when you stop rolling it?

Hopefully these questions make sense.

Thank You,
Griffin
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Old 03-02-2004, 01:44 PM   #8047
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What settings are you setting your droop at and where are you measuring on the arm? It should be measured from the outer corner not the setscrew boss. I recently helped a friend build his FTTC3 and the drivetrain was sticky on his too. We did nothing to free it up. But after he ran it a couple of times it freed up alot. It cannot be binding tho, If its too stiff it will burn out your motor. It should at least turn over a few times. What are you running for tires as it matters on how you set droop. If you run rubber tires the droop gague works fine as tire size stays consistant but if you are running foams you need to measure downtravel not droop because the tire size changes the setting.
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Old 03-02-2004, 01:54 PM   #8048
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mike or anyone, are you spacing the f block up .03 or .3 whichever it is in the rear, i know it came up eariler but i want to know if i should when i instal the f block in the rear
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Old 03-02-2004, 02:29 PM   #8049
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Griffin, a well prepped TC3 drivetrain should spin for at least 2-3 seconds with stock diff cases and many (including my own) spin for 10+ with milled out or warpspeed diff cases.

Your gears are still new, and they have yet to wear in. The bearings also have the grease in them instead of light oil which most of us use. The car will free up after the gears wear in and the grease will get looser, as well. Warpspeed diff cases (AE diff cases with the bearing areas milled and helicoils installed in the screw holes) will help your car a lot. You can buy them by sending an email to warpspeedracing@aol.com
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Old 03-02-2004, 02:41 PM   #8050
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how about someone fills us in on how to work on the diff cases
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Old 03-02-2004, 02:46 PM   #8051
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on every set of cases i have had,the only pinch points were in the outdrive bearings.i simply took an exacto knife and cut 1/16 champher on the corners and put in a set of gears that ran consentric.after that i put in good bearings and got a 15 second spin with it.it is real free now.
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Old 03-02-2004, 03:01 PM   #8052
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Brian,

The warpspeed cases sound like exactly what I was planning on doing to my diff cases. I've already stripped out one of the mounting holes and was doing some reading on 'blueprinting'.

At this point, however, it feels like there is one point in the gears where everything kinda sticks. I guess I just need to get a pack or two through it to break it in.

As far as the droop thing goes, I *THINK* the front droop is set to 4 or 6 (as per the build instructions), however, the front has NO travel. The arms don't go down past parallel with the chassis.
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Old 03-02-2004, 06:32 PM   #8053
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Besides the cases i also shim the diff gear away from the input gear,also i use white lightning it's a aerosol type of teflon that dries with no residue you can buy at most bicycle shops,i also use a dremel and brasso remove bearing shields and polish internal bearing with brasso on dremel on 1st setting for about 10 seconds spray out and add one drop of oil,my car will free spin 20-25 seconds hope any of this helps.
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Old 03-03-2004, 06:06 AM   #8054
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Blackstock
Yea the f-block from the front in the rear..


This is used with the 3+2 in the back to give the car a 1.5 degree's toe in and lower the hinge pins some to loosen the car up a bit for high bite track..

We only do this for carpet racing only .....


Hope this helps

Mike...
I think the key words here are "FOR HIGH BITE TRACK" I tried this setup at our track and there was very little side bite. It just didn't work on our carpet. From mid corner out, on power, was great, just to loose off power. But I could feel what a difference it made and now know what the first change will be if I get to a high bite track.

take care
john
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Old 03-03-2004, 08:41 AM   #8055
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did you space the f block up at all in the rear?
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