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Old 02-23-2004, 09:38 PM   #8011
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
You might not need to rebuild the diffs but I'm sure it won't spin freely. You will more tahn likely need to clean out all you bearings and relube with a lightweight oil lik WD40 or something similiar. Then put each transmission back together and after you tighten down the diff cases then check to see how smoothly it spins. You will more than likely need to loosen up your scres on the transmission cases to get it to spin nicely and you might have to use spacers or dremel the cases a little to get it all freed up.
On a rather funny note...
My neighbor recieved a TC3 RTR for Christmas, about a year ago. My racing buddy JUST got a FT TC3 for his Birthday, and worked the drivetrain to make it as free as possibal. The RTR's drive train spun for about seven seconds longer than my friends FT TC3!!!(both stock) I think that he did something wrong as he was building...
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Old 02-24-2004, 06:08 AM   #8012
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Default Re: Re: losi rear hubs

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Originally posted by Bubblestc3
The inner hole on the Losi hub is close to the outter hole on the TC3's rear hub(although may be a different height). The holes can be used as a tuning option, you don't just have to use one hole or the other.(inner hole=more steering/less rear traction, outter hole=more rear traction)
thxs for the help
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Old 02-24-2004, 09:27 PM   #8013
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No problem.
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Old 02-26-2004, 12:46 PM   #8014
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What is the proper procedure for adjusting the tweak out of a car? For instance, if my right front was "heavy", what should I do to correct it?
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Old 02-26-2004, 12:51 PM   #8015
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Originally posted by JWATT
What is the proper procedure for adjusting the tweak out of a car? For instance, if my right front was "heavy", what should I do to correct it?
I believe that I would back off of the left rear shock tension to lighten the front right.
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Old 02-26-2004, 01:53 PM   #8016
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Thanks. Just curious why you suggest adjusting the back, not the front of the car. Also, do you check the car with the rear or front on the stationary side? or check both?
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Old 02-28-2004, 02:39 AM   #8017
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Default roll center

How other than camber link adjustment,can you change roll center on a tc3?
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Old 02-28-2004, 06:26 AM   #8018
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Default Losi Parts...

The only losi parts i run on my car are the rear hubs.. The ONLY reason i run them is for the longer camber link and also being able to adjust the outside ball on the camber link up or down without having to machine the stocks ones... I feel like when i run the stock location the Stock associated one's are fine..

I usually run 0 degree's losi blocks..


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Old 02-28-2004, 06:29 AM   #8019
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Default Re: roll center

The only other thing you can do besides the camber links, IS to lower or raise the hinge pins.. This will also adjust the rolls center... But the only way to do this is to either have someone mill the f-r blocks down for you or use shims to raise them.. Very little here is huge on the racetracks and VERY noticeable...


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How other than camber link adjustment,can you change roll center on a tc3?
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Old 02-28-2004, 09:17 AM   #8020
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Great thanks for the help.
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Old 02-28-2004, 04:43 PM   #8021
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Default tweak?

I think I have a " tweak problem" in that when entering a corner off power turning left the car would rotate quickly and cause the back end to enter a skid while turning right off power the car is hooked up. Without having to say I have a tweak problem is there anything else you guys can think off that would cause this. The problem is more pronounced when I run a D5 than a KR motor, since the D5 seems to have some drag brake effect. This problems gets worse toward the 4 minute mark. Without giving more information on setup could heat from the motor and batteries be a factor in chassis tweak?
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Old 02-28-2004, 11:59 PM   #8022
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I would just make sure that all the hinge pins are straight, and make sure that the droop is set correctly.

When this occurs, are you using brake?
Because when I was at the Tamiya track not too long ago, I was setting my trim and had to go back and forth with my EVOIII. Then to stop, and turn I would use the brakes and the car would spin out to the left.(not touching the wheel)
Suposedly when the battery is on the left side, and the brakes are applied the "torque brake" makes the right side VERY light, and the right side tires loose traction. I solved it by just never using brakes(I didn't anyways).

I have also had very hot batteries and motors in my car, but I doubt that it warped my chassis. Although I have broken many cams on that car...
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Old 02-29-2004, 01:27 AM   #8023
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mike b - i've been told once the tweak is set on a car, to tighten up the droop to take up any slack of non-sprung travel. what is your take on this, and how do you set droop?

p.s. if this has been posted somewhere on the previous 267 pages, sorry for being repetitive, didn't go searching through all that!
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Old 02-29-2004, 11:52 AM   #8024
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Bubbles,

Thanks for your help, I checked the hinge pins and it seems the factory ones are slightly bent. When rear toe is measured on the hudy, the left side had about 2-1/2 degrees and the right side had about 2 degrees. I got some Bud's hinge pins ( seems the factory ones are rather soft) and now both sides read 2 degrees. Do you think the difference can cause that much of a problem.
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Old 02-29-2004, 12:54 PM   #8025
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When you have different toe on one side of the rear on the car, mostlikely the car's rear end will drift out to one side. Yet with only half of a degree of difference, it should not cause any problems.

I have also found that when using a rear bumper helps in "tweak prevention" in the fact that it is held center by the diff cases, and when you get hit on the rear arm(hmmmm, should be called a Leg... ) it has four screws holding the rear block to the chassis, rather than two.
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