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Old 02-16-2004, 09:43 AM   #7951
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Arun, im heading to VA for a HTUSA trophy race March 20th. Nothing big, but it is a good chance to hang out with all of my old racin buddies. The asphalt race April 16-18th at TFB looks clear on the calendar, i just have to clear it with work... or quit. Is the asphalt smooth enough for foams? Gimme the skinny so i know what to prep for!

I would like to mention the electronics was elevated by 3/4' foam in an attempt to rid my week at the Birds of a nasty glitch. I swapped everything from receivers, servos, speedos, removing the fan, motors, moving the antenna mount/location, frequencies, and using another M8/module to see if it would go away, and to no avail. The blue capacitors added to the wiring harnesses at the speedo and receiver seemed to do the trick. Well, most of it anyways. If i had my choice, the electronics would have been mounted as flat as possible. My options were pointing to an exterior/body mounting position for anything with wires! I did not however try any static guard spray on the chassis, or grounding the chassis to the battery. I was going to wire the speedo straight to the battery too... the wires for the fan/switch dictated otherwise. Ahhh the power of hindsight!!

- Dave
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Old 02-16-2004, 10:54 AM   #7952
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DaveW-I feel your pain. I glitched all day Wednesday at Birds. I replaced ESC, 2-RX, two servos before I found the problem. For me it was the servo after all was said and done. But I waisted every practice run and both runs at the Club races trying to find it.

I even waisted my first real qualifier (stock sedan) because my new Helios was in 2ch mode and needed to be in 3ch mode t run with a NOvak RX. I had no radio signal to the car.

When I went out for my second real qualifier on Friday (sportsman 19t)-I had a new radio I had never used and a new servo I had never used. I shook like a leaf on the drivers stand that run!!! I was still shaking while marshalling-hahaha!!

Ray
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Old 02-16-2004, 12:37 PM   #7953
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
Arun, im heading to VA for a HTUSA trophy race March 20th. Nothing big, but it is a good chance to hang out with all of my old racin buddies. The asphalt race April 16-18th at TFB looks clear on the calendar, i just have to clear it with work... or quit. Is the asphalt smooth enough for foams? Gimme the skinny so i know what to prep for!

I would like to mention the electronics was elevated by 3/4' foam in an attempt to rid my week at the Birds of a nasty glitch. I swapped everything from receivers, servos, speedos, removing the fan, motors, moving the antenna mount/location, frequencies, and using another M8/module to see if it would go away, and to no avail. The blue capacitors added to the wiring harnesses at the speedo and receiver seemed to do the trick. Well, most of it anyways. If i had my choice, the electronics would have been mounted as flat as possible. My options were pointing to an exterior/body mounting position for anything with wires! I did not however try any static guard spray on the chassis, or grounding the chassis to the battery. I was going to wire the speedo straight to the battery too... the wires for the fan/switch dictated otherwise. Ahhh the power of hindsight!!

- Dave
Foams are actually all that will be allowed at this particular race. Last season, I only ran electric a few times; we all basically used plaid/purple. Not many have tried the DP/DPOs here yet outdoors, but most of us are expecting them to be a better tire, especially in high traction.

The classes have not yet been formally announced, but expect nitro, mod, 19t, and maybe stock. This is shaping up to be a very well organized event from what I am hearing.

Here's a pic of the track:
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Old 02-16-2004, 12:53 PM   #7954
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Where is this track? Do they have a website.
Runing foams on Asphalt huh. Interesting. The only thing that would be missing would be the Nitro.
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Old 02-16-2004, 03:38 PM   #7955
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I'me very happy with my BMI conversion. It is VERY stiff and has seemed to help me make my car handle better then with the stock chassis. (although my chassis wasn't dremmeled like others are doing) The bmi can be ordered with different options. Stock it somes with 3mm bottom plate and 2.5mm top plate. If your running Carpet, I would recommend getting the 3mm top plate also. Makes it REAL stiff. The BMI also already has the battery holes chamfered and moved tward the center. It also is predrilled for the NTC3 steering rack. The only thing left to do is CA the edges of the carbon fiber when it arrives. I would also check out the BMI thread on this forum.


Quote:
Originally posted by rfree02
Ok, what are the thoughts of the BMI chassis, it looks pretty weird on the website, does it perform any better than stock?

I have got the IRS chassis, and have not use it yet. Maybee i can just dremel the battery holes so they are closer to the shaft?

Russell.
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:09 PM   #7956
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RAY: Man i am glad someone else felt my frustration. (misery loves company LOL) One cant even get the car up to speed to see if it handles properly to be competitive for fear of a twitch into the wall. I really hate rebuilding a car for a mistake that was not my own. My guess was all of the flourescent lighting where the track was. It sucks to go home KNOWING you could have done better...

Arun, that track looks SA-WEET! Are you going to be running electric as well as nitro that weekend? Its shaping up like i can go. There are a few things to work out, but all allowing, i will be there and running mod. Is there a motor limit in mod? Alot of tracks are allowing only 10T and above. I know you said the classes havent been announced, will you let me know as soon as you do? You still have my # right?

- Dave
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:23 PM   #7957
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HI Dave,

i have FT team kit and it only came with the bolt and a silver locknut, the locknut sits into a hexagonal shape section inside the plastic outdrive.

IRS said to read there instruction but the part number they refered to was the same as the bolt and nut, no TNUT. I winder if it was on one of the parts tree as a spare, will have to look.

other wise thatnks for the part number

regards brad








Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
OHBRAD: If the "T-nut" is still spinning, odds are you cut the ears off of it. They sit in the slots of the outdrive to keep it from spinning. You can get the bolt and the nut together in ASC6575, as you already mentioned, or in a complete rebuild kit for the diff in ASC3926. The diff rings included in ASC3926 will fit the IRS outdrives as well as the TC3 steel outdrives. Double check your white "T-nut" and let me know if you accidentally cut the ears off of it. Im hoping it is as simple as that.


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Old 02-16-2004, 07:39 PM   #7958
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Brad, you need the diff parts for the steel diffs, part number asc3926. Here is a picture of the parts.
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:53 PM   #7959
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
RAY: Man i am glad someone else felt my frustration. (misery loves company LOL) One cant even get the car up to speed to see if it handles properly to be competitive for fear of a twitch into the wall. I really hate rebuilding a car for a mistake that was not my own. My guess was all of the flourescent lighting where the track was. It sucks to go home KNOWING you could have done better...


- Dave
Dave,

Before I solved my glitching problem, my car had three bent hingepins, two or three bent ballstuds, tire edges ripped up from all the glitches and hits I took. I basically rebuilt the entiire car after putting in the new radio gear it was so bashed up. But-now we have the Nats!! Lets hope we both do a bit better!!

Ray
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:33 PM   #7960
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
RAY: Man i am glad someone else felt my frustration. (misery loves company LOL) One cant even get the car up to speed to see if it handles properly to be competitive for fear of a twitch into the wall. I really hate rebuilding a car for a mistake that was not my own. My guess was all of the flourescent lighting where the track was. It sucks to go home KNOWING you could have done better...

Arun, that track looks SA-WEET! Are you going to be running electric as well as nitro that weekend? Its shaping up like i can go. There are a few things to work out, but all allowing, i will be there and running mod. Is there a motor limit in mod? Alot of tracks are allowing only 10T and above. I know you said the classes havent been announced, will you let me know as soon as you do? You still have my # right?

- Dave
I will very likely be running both classes, nitro and electric. I am going to be working on both cars, my tc3 and my new Serpent 710, as soon as we move outdoors again. I will try to keep electric to only one class, as a result. I want to run mod in electric, but I don't know yet. Regardless, I cannot wait to get one of the new mod motors from PEAK or ORION. Fernando runs for PEAK now, and he ran his vantage 9t 17(SEVENTEEN, 10+7) times before cutting it without any loss in its killer performance!!! Even then, he only needed to make a "skim". I have seen only a couple of these new motors, and right now I would not buy anything else. I have an EPIC 9t that will only go two runs without a cut. It's depressing.

I seriously doubt that there will be a motor limit for mod; I only cannot confirm it for sure. In nitro, I believe 5 ports will be legal, so I doubt that under 10 turns will be a problem.

As far as setup: A straight axle up front will most likely be the ticket, as it has proven true with the nitro cars. I turned some decent laps at the end of last season with a "home-made" straight axle. Others have run a one-way with good results. I know you have a HD one-way already, just be sure to have a straight axle also (and some cvd's that can support it.)

Yes, I still have your number; just pick up this time!

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Old 02-17-2004, 10:23 AM   #7961
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Does anyone know where I can buy clamping hex nuts in SILVER for the TC3? I've been looking and looking, and all I can find are silver ones for different cars - and I'm not sure of they'd work on the tc3...

Thanks.
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:22 PM   #7962
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I know some people that just use the Yokomo blue hex's and use Oven-Off to take off the anidization...

This should make the hex's silver.
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Old 02-17-2004, 09:31 PM   #7963
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TQ Hobbies
Friday Night Racing Series
Race Dates
Friday nights Feb 20,27 March 5,12,19 April 2,9,16
Come join TQ Hobbies and their staff for a really cool Friday night series that is rewarding and fun. The series will be 8 races in total. The prizes for participation are awesome. Call TQ Hobbies for any questions about details not listed below.

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All entries will receive a raffle ticket for free (We are not selling raffle tickets). This race is about participation, so the more you race, the more raffle tickets you will receive. The raffle will have motors, batteries, touring bodies and more. Go to TQ hobbies and ask to see the prize display.

All racers will be placed in class according to their lap times and skill (no sandbagging). There will be tech so all 190mm touring cars will weigh 53oz and the wing cannot be higher than the roof line. To be eligible for the final prizes you will need to attend and race 6 races minimum. All motors will be roar legal stock motors (bring your own motor). Rainouts will be rescheduled. All decisions by race director will be final.

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Old 02-18-2004, 03:47 PM   #7964
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Default tc3 asphalt

hey guys i was wondering is the tc3 as fast as it is on asphalt as it is on carpet ? i have a xray i was thinking of running outdoors but if the tc3 is as good as it is on carpet i think i might just run it outdoors what do you guys think?
thanks
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Old 02-18-2004, 06:04 PM   #7965
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Hi guys I need some help. I have an IRS tc3, I am looking for the blue post that holds the batteries in place its the blue post in the front of the car. it is held in by a screw from the bottem of the chassie and a screw with the hole in it on the top to mount the batteries tight. sorry i don't know the name i just traded for this car. i checked the irs site and tower hobbies. its the front mount for the battery brace. please help me find a place to buy this.

I love the way this car handles i had the yok sd but i could not get a good setup for it. please help!!!!!!!!!!!!
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