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Old 02-15-2004, 03:08 PM   #7936
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ETZKEV: Thanks! As far as the transponder ahead of the shock tower, that isnt a rule here that i am aware of. Noone said anything about it at the Birds... so i am assuming it was ok! The shocks are the TC3 threaded bodies with Yokomo bladder caps. They build REALLY nice!

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Old 02-15-2004, 04:19 PM   #7937
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Thanks for the info. I guess if no one says anything, just leave well enough alone!

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Old 02-15-2004, 07:36 PM   #7938
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
The shocks are the TC3 threaded bodies with Yokomo bladder caps. They build REALLY nice!

- Dave
I agree...I love that setup
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Old 02-15-2004, 08:48 PM   #7939
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What happens to the handling of the car when u change the hole in the link on the rears hubs from the upper one to the lower one?
Actually outer to the inner.

Another quick question, is it worth the money to change from the stock plastic shocks to the aluminum ones? Does it help in performance?

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 02-15-2004, 09:31 PM   #7940
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
ETZKEV: Thanks! As far as the transponder ahead of the shock tower, that isnt a rule here that i am aware of. Noone said anything about it at the Birds... so i am assuming it was ok! The shocks are the TC3 threaded bodies with Yokomo bladder caps. They build REALLY nice!

- Dave
dave,
I'm a total clueless with Yokomo stuff...
can i please have the part numbers for the bladder caps?
also,do they come in 1 pair or 2 pairs(1set)?
thanks
Lee
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Old 02-15-2004, 10:59 PM   #7941
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Can anyone explain the theory of running Losi rear hubs and front spindles and castor blocks on the TC3?

Is it to gives more tuning options or for better geometry... or a combination of the two?

Cheers,
Scott
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Old 02-16-2004, 03:18 AM   #7942
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Default STILL CONFUSED

Thanks i can see now, but how did you stop the nut from spinning around, i can't get a spanner in the outdrive to stop it turning, so now i can't tighten it.

the instructions are poor it refer to a 6575 p/n t-nut, that part is abolt a not a nut, then refers to the bolt further down the instructions, no wonder i am getting confused

brad




Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
BRAD: You use the white locknut from the steel TC3 outdrive set to secure the IRS set. The spring also goes under the nut, and not under the thrust assembly, as in the plastic TC3 outdrive set.


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Old 02-16-2004, 06:05 AM   #7943
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Does any one make a chassis conversion for the TC3 to move the batteries closer to the shaft? or do i have to mill my own?

Thanks

Russell.
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:14 AM   #7944
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Quote:
Originally posted by rfree02
Does any one make a chassis conversion for the TC3 to move the batteries closer to the shaft? or do i have to mill my own?

Thanks

Russell.
BMI and Warpspeed do but you will be using a graphite double deck type chassis. No one that I know of makes a stock type chassis (Molded) with the batteries in closer to the shaft. You either have to do it yourself with a dremel, drill press or mill. Sometimes guys sell ones done here on R/C Tech.
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:17 AM   #7945
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Ok, what are the thoughts of the BMI chassis, it looks pretty weird on the website, does it perform any better than stock?

I have got the IRS chassis, and have not use it yet. Maybee i can just dremel the battery holes so they are closer to the shaft?

Russell.
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:28 AM   #7946
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OHBRAD: If the "T-nut" is still spinning, odds are you cut the ears off of it. They sit in the slots of the outdrive to keep it from spinning. You can get the bolt and the nut together in ASC6575, as you already mentioned, or in a complete rebuild kit for the diff in ASC3926. The diff rings included in ASC3926 will fit the IRS outdrives as well as the TC3 steel outdrives. Double check your white "T-nut" and let me know if you accidentally cut the ears off of it. Im hoping it is as simple as that.

Lee82gx: The part# is YOK YS-8D. It is a pair of caps that come with two bladders, two caps, two foam inserts, and one poor set of instructions for 10$ USD. You will need two packages to complete one car, doing all four shocks. Take your time and build them right, and your shocks will be as smooth as butter! SpeedtechRC offers them online, but are currently out of stock.

SCOTTYP: Alot of guys have discussed the Losi parts on a TC3 extensively on here. Might i suggest an RCTECH search, or a sandwich and a few hours of read time! In all seriousness, adding the parts for yourself, and taking notes to the changes is the only way to feel, and know the difference. Some like them on the car, some dont. You wont be disappointed if you try them on your car, i can promise you that.

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Old 02-16-2004, 08:49 AM   #7947
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thanks DaveW.

Well at least it gives more than just an aluminium shock cap as Assoc. does for the same price..
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Old 02-16-2004, 09:06 AM   #7948
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Hey, I just got a TC3 don't want to leave it stock. Will people pm me with ideas for what to do with it. I will be racing mod on asphalt. I want to have a killer car and money is not an option.
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Old 02-16-2004, 09:14 AM   #7949
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Dave, do you think you can make the serpent/xray challenge (april 16-18)? It is an asphalt race, of course.

BTW...everyone take notice that the electronics are NOT flat on DaveW's chassis. So much for that "affinity" !
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Old 02-16-2004, 09:42 AM   #7950
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tc3stocker,

www.warpspeed-racing.com

And check out the thread in this Electric On-Road forum

You'll have your killer car alright.
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