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Old 02-01-2004, 10:19 AM   #7816
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Does anyone know if the new factory team tc3's come with clamp hubs and the aluminum servo mounts. Thanks
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:46 AM   #7817
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The FT kit I bought a few weeks ago had non-clamping hubs and plastic servo mounts.
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Old 02-01-2004, 12:34 PM   #7818
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Quote:
Originally posted by wyd
Nope as mine did this again this weekend. I'm going to order some aluminum ones from GPM or someone like that. The Associated graphite parts see to stip so easily. Out of all my touring cars this one is the worst for that. Good thing it is the best handeling car I have had so I'm more than happy to put up with this problem.
Get a helicoil kit and use a drill press to install helicoils in the kit hubs, they'll never strip.
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Old 02-01-2004, 11:41 PM   #7819
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i saw that calandra makes some decent looking alum stuff, but i was wandering if it was me of a known problem, couse some of the guys at my local track dont have the problem
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Old 02-02-2004, 04:57 AM   #7820
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Default Re: transmitter ?

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Originally posted by presure2
hey all....does anyone run they're transmitter set so that the car rolls when your not pressing the throttle? or set to brake when you let off? whats the reason behind running one way or the other?
hehe sorry for the noob Q's..gotta find out somehow!! lol
thanks
manny
Like was posted earlier, I run quite a bit of 'roll' for stock and 19t. It does depend on the track. Your car should rotate well in order to take advantage of the higher corner speeds, otherwise you might think your car is pushing.
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:20 PM   #7821
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Hardcore Outdrives

Has anybody purchased outdrives from Hardcore? And if so, did you have any problems getting them to go together correctly. Mine, are not going together. It's as if the (2) bearings in the center. (one in the outdrive, the other in the ring-gear) are 2 think and do not let the outdrive come together as it should.

Any thoughts?
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:26 PM   #7822
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I have 2 cars and both have them installed. Have not experienced your problem. I would try assembly without one bushing and see if the problem goes away. If so, hand file the bushings till you get the clearance you want. BTW, I had a guy machine them so they will take the stock AE "D" diff rings, makes life a LOT easier.

I just noticed that you said "bearing" not bushing. I would measure the thickness of the bearing compared to the bushing to verify the thickness. You might still try assembly with only one to see if that lets it go together better.
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:32 PM   #7823
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Default Hardcore Outdrives

I will try that. I also milled the outdrive to accept the Dring. I'm sure that's the issue.

Do you have bushings installed vs. bearings? If so, doesn't this make a difference on how smooth they operate?
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:40 PM   #7824
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I use bushings. The only time the unit uses the bushing is when it is in "diff" action, and a bearing will not be noticed over a bushing as far as smoothness or how free it "diffs". Be sure to assemble it clean, and use some diff lube on the bushings, and then if it is rough you need to look elsewhere.

Bearings over bushings in this application is over rated, IMHO.
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Old 02-02-2004, 03:55 PM   #7825
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I have the IRS aluminum diffs, they would not accept bearings either. I experienced the same problem your having when I tried to use them.
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Old 02-02-2004, 07:37 PM   #7826
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I just bought an aluminum diff hub and aluminum drive cups for the center shaft from IRS and NOTHING fit properly. Not only could I not get the drive cups on the shafts, but the driveshaft did not fit inside the cups. The diff hub had terrible tolerances on it and wobbled on the drve pin.

A quick e-mail to the guys at IRS explained that there was a problem with the anodizing being too thick on the drive cups and some QC problems on the diff hub. They were very helpful and willing to take back my parts, and exchange them for new pieces when they have fixed the problems, but I would say that my first experience with IRS parts was not a positive one.

We'll see how the new parts work once I send them back and receive the new pieces.


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Old 02-02-2004, 07:46 PM   #7827
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Does GPM have a site? I am looking for the GPM Aluminum TC3 Steering Carriers (Knuckles), but I cannot find them ANYWHERE! Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 02-02-2004, 08:10 PM   #7828
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Default GPM

CRC's look almost identical to the GPM's. I wouldn't be too suprised if they were the same. Although, I've never held the 2 together. The only place I know to get the GPM stuff is
www.hobbyetc.com
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Old 02-02-2004, 08:22 PM   #7829
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ozwald Bates
I have the IRS aluminum diffs, they would not accept bearings either. I experienced the same problem your having when I tried to use them.
The only parts I'd suggest from IRS on the tc3 are the light input shafts, alum outdrives if you run mod, and big dawg bones if you run mod.

The plastic drive cups and spur gear pieces are fine, and very true.

IRS makes some great stuff, especially their 12th scale parts, but I think some of their TC3 parts are uncecessary.

Use BUSHINGS in the IRS diffs. They work fine. Coat them in diff lube prior to installation.
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Old 02-02-2004, 08:23 PM   #7830
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Default Re: Hardcore Outdrives

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Originally posted by acyrier
Has anybody purchased outdrives from Hardcore? And if so, did you have any problems getting them to go together correctly. Mine, are not going together. It's as if the (2) bearings in the center. (one in the outdrive, the other in the ring-gear) are 2 think and do not let the outdrive come together as it should.

Any thoughts?
Hardcore outdrives us bushings, like the ones that come with the AE lite drives, not bearings.
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