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Old 01-29-2004, 10:08 AM   #7741
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crashmaster
Me again,

been do'in some research, does anyone know if the CS electronic Space Charger is any good??

http://www.cs-electronic.com/CS-Prod...ce_charger.php

As ever, Cheers

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Dude, get a turbo 35 and you'll never look back. You can charge, discharge, cycle, and run motors, and the charger will give you the same numbers printed on your cells, because CE makes the industry's standard matcher. It is pricey, but, if you plan to stay in this, you will want one later anyway. I should have bought a turbo 35 when I first started. Instead, I bought a MRC, then a Duratrax, then an integy, then a novak. I finally bought the turbo 35 and I am finally happy.
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Old 01-29-2004, 10:08 AM   #7742
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crashmaster
Thats what I was thinking about the charger Horatio, as you can see from the pic of the track, it has a pretty short straight, and with my 14 (reedy), I can out power most of, if not all of the 12 turn equiped cars
Everything Rick said was sound advice.

However, in the states they tend to race on more open, faster circuits with really low wind motors. They're mad.

Over here, 14 turns is plenty quick enough especially if you're still learning the ropes.

A Proper battery management system will enable you to allow your cells to cool between rounds, discharge after meetings or between rounds and check remaining charge - you'll know whether to gear up or down accordingly. All really useful stuff. Also, with a decent charger you'll never have to worry about false peaking as your packs get older. That means that you can race/marshal without having to stress or get someone to check for you every five minutes!!

The only thing is that a decent charger will cost quite alot more than a decent mod motor
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Old 01-29-2004, 11:48 AM   #7743
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Thanks for the help guys, now comes the difficult part. GETTING MONEY!!
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Old 01-29-2004, 02:28 PM   #7744
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ok, who all makes chassis for electric TC3. i know Warpspeed & BMI and probably Hardcore, but who else? i saw one a while back that had the Nitro suspention, who makes it?
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Old 01-29-2004, 03:48 PM   #7745
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Has anyone tried out the aluminum diff cases by rdlogics?
Any positive or negative information would be appreciated.
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Old 01-29-2004, 04:12 PM   #7746
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Quote:
Originally posted by SupremeHacker
Has anyone tried out the aluminum diff cases by rdlogics?
Any positive or negative information would be appreciated.
I could be mistaken, but I thought that RDlogics made Die-Cast Metal diff cases...
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Old 01-29-2004, 05:53 PM   #7747
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This is going back on the subject of freeing up the transmission by using spacers or dremeling out where the bearings can be pinched in the diff cases. I just did the dremeling method, and I can say it is great. My transmission has never been more free. It glides VERY good. To anyone who has not done this: it is a great thing to do, as you will see surprising results!

-etzkev
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Old 01-29-2004, 05:55 PM   #7748
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bubblestc3
I could be mistaken, but I thought that RDlogics made Die-Cast Metal diff cases...
RDLogics calls them "Die-Cast Aluminum diff cases." So, in a way you are both right.
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Old 01-29-2004, 06:02 PM   #7749
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bubblestc3
I could be mistaken, but I thought that RDlogics made Die-Cast Metal diff cases...
http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_172.htm

I was just asking because I have a tendency to strip the cases (no matter how careful I seem to be with the screws )

As an alternate I was thinking of using helicoils in the plastic case like Warpspeed does.
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Old 01-29-2004, 06:21 PM   #7750
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Easier just to buy the Warpspeed cases, then the bearing recesses are all blueprinted too...for a FREE drivetrain.
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Old 01-29-2004, 06:27 PM   #7751
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Got a question for the TC3 guys, do the aftermarket double deck chassis' avalible change the battery/motor location any? What is the reason for switching to a double deck car for those of you that have?
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Old 01-29-2004, 06:30 PM   #7752
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i know the warpspeed changes the layout, but i think the BMI and IRS chassis' are the same
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Old 01-29-2004, 06:35 PM   #7753
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Yes Randman,

The Warpspeed Demon TC3 chassis kit does change the battery position. It flips the location of the electronics/batteries. What this has done is completely get rid of the effect of torque steer (trust me, I've ran very fast 9 and 10 turns in my car and it tracks straight when hard on the gas). Warpspeed also does not have 7 slots for moving the battery to the front or back, but rather has put them in the center for better balance. They have also moved the battery closer to the centerline like all the guys with tubs have been doing.

Initially when I was looking at the Demon kit, I wanted it because it was different than what other people had and had shown the performance to back it up. Now, I'm a Warpspeed team driver, and I CAN say that the Demon kit definitely performs. It is by far the stiffest double deck conversion for the TC3 (even the 2.5 mm car is extremely stiff, and the 3 mm car is very, very hard to get any torsional flex out of by hand). I'm very happy with the way the car performs .

BTW, Randman, Warpspeed does have a Yokomo SD chassis/top deck kit out that I hear follows the same pattern and is extremely stiff as well (if you intend to do some carpet racing). Look in the "Diamond Northern - Stiffer is better" thread in this forum to get info and see pics.
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Old 01-29-2004, 06:59 PM   #7754
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Thank you for the info Brian.

One thing I don't fully understand is that with a double deck, if the chassis twists enough, the screws will slightly shift and cause tweak. Of coarse this is less likely to happen with the stiffer chassis, but it does still happen. You wont have that problem with the tub chassis that the car comes with stock.

Yokomo has released the CGM chassis for the SD, which basically converts the car to something like a TC3. The problem that the SSG, Black Special, and Rayspeed chassis' have is that they do get a small amount of tweak in them, just by brushing corner dots from what I've fount. I personally am going to switch to the tub chassis and see if it's the fix to the problem. I was just wondering that since Associated already has a chassis out that won't have that problem, why people are switching to a chassis that most likely will.
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:10 PM   #7755
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One of the reasons is because the Tub does tweak or warp from the heat of the motor. Another is weight. The double deck setup is stiffer too. If you want stiffer, you can however add an upper deck to your tub chassis
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