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Old 01-28-2004, 07:48 AM   #7696
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Ok, if you run .030 spacers under the front rear hinge pin support. giving you -2 degree kickup. The set up sheet says 4 degrees caster. Are you running 4 degree blocks = giving you 2 degrees total or 6 degree blocks = 4 degrees total.
Just trying to figure that out.

thanks
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Old 01-28-2004, 10:19 AM   #7697
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Proficar. Greetings from Malta.......not so far away!

I have it fitted like yours in one of my son's TC3s.

Wherever you fit it, so long as the RED (+) wire is connected to the positive (+) side of the diode and the BLUE (-) wire is connected to the negative (-) side, it shouldn't really make any difference.

I got the idea from some of Britains leading touring car drivers when on a recent visit. I'm sure they know what they are doing!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 01-28-2004, 11:45 AM   #7698
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The way johnbull has it is just fine.... It's still in the same location as far as the circuit is concerned. Electrons don't know any better. Lol.
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Old 01-28-2004, 11:48 AM   #7699
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Sorry about posting about shimming again, but I'm still a bit unclear. I appreciate that all diff housings etc are different, so there can't be a general rule, but could someone please tell me how many shimms they are running on the input shafts with the metal diff halfs.

Cheers again

Crashmaster
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Old 01-28-2004, 12:40 PM   #7700
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bodido
The way johnbull has it is just fine.... It's still in the same location as far as the circuit is concerned. Electrons don't know any better. Lol.


It seems that the main thing is soldering the Novak schottky on to the ESC in parrellel. I recall that with motor schottky diodes, there is some marginal advantage in soldering them as close to the motor as possible (or on the motor - that's what I do).

Proficar:

Thanks for your picture and BTW - nice looking TC3, good job!

Johnbull:

The schottky is on it's own little PCB - is that how it comes from Novak?
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Old 01-28-2004, 01:07 PM   #7701
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
Proficar. Greetings from Malta.......not so far away!

I have it fitted like yours in one of my son's TC3s.

Wherever you fit it, so long as the RED (+) wire is connected to the positive (+) side of the diode and the BLUE (-) wire is connected to the negative (-) side, it shouldn't really make any difference.

I got the idea from some of Britains leading touring car drivers when on a recent visit. I'm sure they know what they are doing!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
I'm just going by what Novak says, because I'm no electrician. I emailed them a while back, and this is what they told me. I cannot find the old email, which was explained rather well, so I will try to give you the jist of it.

It supposedly goes by this principle: You already have a schottky in the speed control, and you are already supposed to have one on the motor. They said that, by not putting it in between the speedo and the motor, it is worthless, due to there already being one in the speed control that begins to "work" before, and only slightly before, the new "high performance" diode. The new schottky cannot prevent damage to the speed control if the speed control receives an overload before the current reaches the new schottky. The speed control is then getting a more direct "hit" by the motor. Apparantly, the electrons CAN tell the difference. (Again, I am just going by what the Novak people told me.)

The argument sounds VERY reasonable to me. How can the schottky prevent damage if the current must pass THROUGH the speed control to get to it?

I know that the gt7 had a huge problem of "spontaneos combustion" before these diodes were released. Since the upgrade, the speed controls are supposedly protected MUCH better.

Whether or not it is true, well...ask a professional, because I am definitely not one (yet .) I just think that it makes since. Even if I didn't believe it, I wouldn't take the chance, because I don't get these things for free (Again, yet ).

By the way, that yok SD looks cool as @#%& with all the "black" graphite.
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Old 01-28-2004, 01:15 PM   #7702
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well guys i had my first try at running touring this last weekend , i had a blast even tho i didnt do so great,, in the first heat i was loose as goose and lost my front body clips,, learned the tie strap trick for the second heat and i was still terriable loose which i now believe was the tire traction comp i was using and one to many hits to the pipe at the end of the long straight took its toll on my left front a arm,yelp she broke so didnt get to finish either heat ,but thanks to Dave Pull for a arm , i was able to make the start of the b main,,lol. i start last and man was it finally handling ,, again and i moved up on the start from the last row and was having a blast racing ,, i think i never drove so hard in a long time,, but made some bad and some good moves and ended the day in fifth place. all in all i was having a good time with my new adventure into touring,, but found out the track i ran at is having to stop racing at the location that they are at due to several reasons, so i guess i be looking to run some touring on asphalt now at hobby world.

BIGDN
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Old 01-28-2004, 05:50 PM   #7703
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reminds me of my first time racing. I was racing and it was like the only way i could drive ws to run along the pipe! too bad im still not any better! Well 5th place is not bad for ur first time in Touring. i finished 6th my first time, 6th out of 6!
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Old 01-28-2004, 07:29 PM   #7704
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crashmaster
Sorry about posting about shimming again, but I'm still a bit unclear. I appreciate that all diff housings etc are different, so there can't be a general rule, but could someone please tell me how many shimms they are running on the input shafts with the metal diff halfs.

Cheers again

Crashmaster
I myself use the standard three shims on the input shaft, and the one shim on the long outdrive of the diff. In the past, I have tried to use two shims on the layshaft with the extra one on the "E"clip's side of the gear, but I really did not notice much of a difference. In my honest opinion, I feel as though my time would be better spent out on the track practicing, rather than making my drivetrain like

Besides, if the X-Ray can do so well in stock with duel belt drive, I really do not think that an extra two seconds of free spin is going to make the winning difference.
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Old 01-28-2004, 07:33 PM   #7705
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There is a guy at my track whos car only spun for about 2 seconds. He had 3 bearings that all they did was grind and he was blowing everyone away for a while. A spinning drivetrain means nothing. Some of the AE Guys cars last year at Snowbirds would only spin for about 3-4 seconds.
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Old 01-28-2004, 07:43 PM   #7706
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Quote:
Originally posted by MarchTC3
reminds me of my first time racing. I was racing and it was like the only way i could drive ws to run along the pipe! too bad im still not any better! Well 5th place is not bad for ur first time in Touring. i finished 6th my first time, 6th out of 6!
I remember my first race...

I drove the car like a real sports car, swinging wide for the corners to "maintain corner speed" and I did not even look at the results(I did not understand how the sheets were setup lol). I do remember that I was in the C-Main though.

Come to think about it, I have done some VERY embarassing things at the track Hey, ANYONE could step on a dot, the dot slide out from under them, and fall FLAT on their bottom Anyone could loose their shoe while running to turnmarshel a car and have the shoe go up in the air and hit them in the head... Anyone could be standing near the ONLY mud puddle on the Offroad track, and have the ONLY car to crash there and have to go and get the car as the driver is giving a lot of throttle with mud splattering EVERYWHERE.
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Old 01-28-2004, 07:49 PM   #7707
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Quote:
Originally posted by mike_Webb
There is a guy at my track whos car only spun for about 2 seconds. He had 3 bearings that all they did was grind and he was blowing everyone away for a while. A spinning drivetrain means nothing. Some of the AE Guys cars last year at Snowbirds would only spin for about 3-4 seconds.
If your drivetrain only spins for 2 seconds, and people are giving you a hard time about it then tell them that it is supose to be like that, tell them that you have it like that for the "drag brake" effect.
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Old 01-28-2004, 07:55 PM   #7708
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I don't know about that....

10+ seconds of spin time (like my car has, even with foams and lightweight components) has got to help...especially in stock racing.
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Old 01-28-2004, 08:11 PM   #7709
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Yea I aggree a free spinning drive train is only an advantage on the tc3...In fact I saw Barry Bakers Tc3 at the 2002 indoor champs while he was praticing at the gate in cleveland...WOW that thing spun for what seamed forever!!!! I am not lying...this thing slowed down to a stop and rolled backwards to settle it's self out... I wanted to cry it was so pretty... That man can build a car..Afer he ran one pratice pack with a mod motor it even got better!!! He said that he had just built the car because Mike Reedy took his other car after he won the reedy race. I can say also Baker is a nice guy...funny to.
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Old 01-28-2004, 08:13 PM   #7710
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on the topic of a free spinning car it helps alot in any class why whould you want more drag?

my car spins for about 2 seconds with factory bearings and foam tire. i know that isn't anything special but what is impressive to me about it is it takes so little effort to spin.

I have a saying "If it isn't fast at least it looks good going slow" lol the people that have seen my car all say it is a sweet car. and you know what it is a stock factory team with rpm ball cups and front bumper. but it looks good.
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