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Old 01-26-2004, 06:10 PM   #7666
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Default USING DREMEL BIT FOR TRANNY CASE

i should have said I sanded the case by HAND!!!
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Old 01-26-2004, 06:23 PM   #7667
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I used the teflon motor spacers to space my trans. Still fit tight but just enough releif to free up the trans. Not dirt can get in either.
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Old 01-26-2004, 08:29 PM   #7668
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I need to do a complete rebuild of my TC3, it has a lot of slop in the front suspension, and the drivetrain only spins for six to seven seconds(with rubber tires and alum. driveshaft). It has been about seven or eight months since I last fully rebuilt my car, and I feel as though it needs it. I also have been thinking of dremeling out my diff cases, but when I am about to, I just blow it off and say to myself "You should be practicing rather than working to make your car spin for a longer period of time".

In your own opinion, do YOU think that freeing up the drivetrain makes a difference?
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Old 01-26-2004, 08:34 PM   #7669
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If you are running stock and you are able to run a clean run then it is an absolute must.

Does anyone have a link to who sells those little vibrating tubs to clean bearings?

Thanks.
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Old 01-26-2004, 08:37 PM   #7670
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Quote:
In your own opinion, do YOU think that freeing up the drivetrain makes a difference?
if you already have 6-7 secs your car is pretty free. sure you could get more out of it but not really sure that adding 3-5 more secs of 'spin' actually will translate to much on the track.

i would probably just rebuild parts like your diffs/shocks/ect., clean my bearings, and go with it.
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Old 01-26-2004, 09:07 PM   #7671
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Quote:
Originally posted by mab_man20
If you are running stock and you are able to run a clean run then it is an absolute must.

Does anyone have a link to who sells those little vibrating tubs to clean bearings?

Thanks.
Acer Racing sells them through their website www.acerracing.com and the cleaning thing is from Sonic (I think).
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Old 01-26-2004, 09:10 PM   #7672
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Nope, not Sonic, but RPM...

http://www.acerracing.com/bearings.html
at the bottom of the page...
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Old 01-26-2004, 09:23 PM   #7673
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the RPM one isn't what he's looking for though, he wants the sort that vibrates, like a jewellers cleaner. Integy make one of the sort you're looking for (sorry dont have a specific weblink but go to www.integy.com and look around it's there somewhere)

edit: here's a link straight to the product: http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...26104284895.31

Last edited by Rory; 01-26-2004 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 01-26-2004, 09:28 PM   #7674
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Quote:
Originally posted by mab_man20
If you are running stock and you are able to run a clean run then it is an absolute must.

Does anyone have a link to who sells those little vibrating tubs to clean bearings?

Thanks.
I think you are talking about a sonic cleaner. You can get one at any wallmart or k mart its a jewelry cleaner. You have to remove the seals first to use this wich I dont mind. The bearing blaster is quicker but I dont think its as good since your not supposed to remove the seals. all of my bearings are metal shielded and I keep one shield removed. I put them in my wifes jewelry cleaner every week with denatured alcohol. (was she mad thr first time I did that) I can see the debris after cleaning in the bottom so I know its working. Plus I get fresh oil in em every week.
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Old 01-26-2004, 11:39 PM   #7675
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Thanks for the help guys. Does running with less shims etc damage the tranmission then??

Thanks

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Old 01-26-2004, 11:45 PM   #7676
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Default 4 vs. 0?

Anyone running 4 degree carrier blocks in the front? 2 degrees? How do YOU think the car changed when you went from the stock 0 to the 2 or 4? Preferable answers for the 4 degrees.
Ian
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Old 01-27-2004, 12:11 AM   #7677
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Default Re: 4 vs. 0?

Quote:
Originally posted by idwurks
Anyone running 4 degree carrier blocks in the front? 2 degrees? How do YOU think the car changed when you went from the stock 0 to the 2 or 4? Preferable answers for the 4 degrees.
Ian
Both will gives you a better tun in!!! As you approach the corner.the 4 degree, will be a liilte aggresive and is best for tight tracks/turns. this is my opinion and observation.
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Old 01-27-2004, 12:48 AM   #7678
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Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

JEAN. Welcome to rctech.

HORATIO. Do you have the big external schottky diode on your GT7. The first GT7s didn't have it. The newer ones do. CML have it in stock. Yes, I also run a schottky diode on the motors, but your problem could be location of electrics. Try keeping the speedo and speedo wires as far from the crystal and aerial as possible.

ANYONE. Do you lubricate your diff crown wheels or do you run them dry?

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 01-27-2004, 01:15 AM   #7679
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thank for your welcome joe


attached you can see my my actual tc3 which has improved very much thanks to John Bull Racing
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Old 01-27-2004, 02:24 AM   #7680
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Johnbull:

No, my GT7 had 2 small Schottky diodes included as extras (the same as the ones used on motors), but only the capacitor was actually fitted/wired in. With all the electronics in the same place but using the different motor, there were no problems. It just seemed that so much power was being sucked by the Corally that the voltage was dropping below a point where the receiver/servo could cope.

If I got the schottky diode thing from CML for the GT7, would that help when using lower wind/high draw motors?

Regarding lubrication on diff crown gear:

I've tried both with and without. I used liquid gold (mountain bike chain oil), royal oil, castrol and finally ZX1 which is a very thin oil which impregnates microscopic 'pores' on metal/plastic surfaces. Using most oil seems to make the TC3 quieter, but the car isn't as free - it casuses drag.

Using ZX1 seems to help aid self lubricating qualities of the plastic gears - as it's thin, the surplus flies off anyway so drag isn't really an issue. This is my preferred choice. ZX1 is available from Schumacher as a part and also in much larger quantities from Auto shops for adding to your engine oil.

I used the TC3 for a whole season with no lube on the diff crown gear - no probs AND nice and free.

Hope this helps.
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