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Old 01-23-2004, 09:09 AM   #7606
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Default BMI car test

hi there, just wanted to let you know that we ve posted a test of a TC3 BMI converted chassis at www.overrc.Com.. a great swiss site dedicated to 10th touring cars

it s in french but nothing a little babelfish can t fix..
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Old 01-23-2004, 09:22 AM   #7607
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Cool! I'm gonna check it out. Thanks for the link.

-etzkev
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Old 01-23-2004, 10:40 AM   #7608
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LEM2: www.niftech.com They are Ti with aluminum ends, and range from 40$ to 60$ USD, depending on which set of pins you have on the end of the shaft. You can have the regular pins as i do, or the flat swivel pins that add the extra 20$ USD.

Hollow Titanium Drive Shaft for Team Associated TC3
1000 Series (Chassis and Suspension Accessories - Drive Train Accessories)
Keywords: TC3 Drive Shaft
Patent Pending

Features:

1. Resists 4x more torque than stock version.
2. Resists twisting from torque, allowing instantaneous throttle response.
3. Shave critical seconds off lap times.
4. Try with #2350-SWD Flat drive pin along with #1036-TC3-A aluminum couplers for the utlimate combo.


BIGDON18: I used to run a shop/track in VA that was primarily oval, till i got there. TC became the primary class, with alot of oval guys even dipping into it. Heck, even some of the TC guys bought oval cars! I am sure you will love TC, alot of guys are willing to share setups and tips to make you faster... that is rare at alot of oval tracks! Make sure you come back on here and let us in on your racing! Even the bad stuff...

Mike B: What amount of droop/shock extension are you using with a setup in stock/19T?

- Dave
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Old 01-23-2004, 11:06 AM   #7609
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davew,
no problem, i let you know ,, good or bad. but hopefully good.
this weekend will be a good time to learn ,, alot of hotshoes are coming this week to get some last minute carpet before the birds,, this week i plan on just having fun and work on my timing on turning right , learning the way the car handles and transitions in cornering and learning to run roadcourse.

yeah down here its more oval tracks than they are tc tracks but i have just gotten wildhair to try these cars out some and so far i really like them. but i still will also run my oval cars,, right now i plan on running oval and touring at the next big Daytona race they have every year in march.

QUESTION
i do have one question, i usually charge my oval packs at 7amps and .04 cut back on 4cells,, what is the norm on the touring 6cell charging,, 6amp .05 cut ??? or should i just keep chargin my packs like i have been ,, i took three of my 4 cell pack and made two six cell pack,, does anyone charge at 7 amps in touring for say stock and 19t touring.

BIGDON
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Old 01-23-2004, 11:55 AM   #7610
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Default DAVE !!!

My droop setting for 19t where 5 in the front and 4..5 in the rear...



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Old 01-23-2004, 11:59 AM   #7611
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Mike,

Another quick question:

on your setup your using the F block in the rear with the R3+2 block, I'm assuming this lowers the inner pivot points for the rear arms ( lowering the roll center). I also noticed you are using the lower inner hole on the shock tower (raising the roll center) for your camber link. What was the purpose behind these changes?

Thanks
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Old 01-23-2004, 11:52 PM   #7612
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Default Re: TC3 Racer...

Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Blackstock
I am pretty sure they ( ASSOCIATED ) are going to do it pretty soon.. If you look up some on this thread i posted 99% of it there....


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thxs mike cya at the birds
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Old 01-24-2004, 01:41 AM   #7613
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Quote:
Originally posted by trackdesigner71
Ok I need just a basic asphalt stock rubber setup. Monster Stock is the motor. Is it really hard to have a setup that works both indoors and outdoors without having to make significant changes?
Well, kind of. I have noticed that Indoor racing is usually on a tight and twisty track, when you want quite a lot of steering. Then Outdoor racing is on pretty large tracks, adaptable for nitro, so very fast and sweeping where you do not want to have such a twichey car. I have also noticed that Indoor tracks stay at a much more consistant tempature, where as Outdoors it could be VERY hot, or VERY cold. For your position, I would find a good Outdoor setup without swaybars, then when you go indoors, just add the swaybars and take out some rear toe(this is basically how I go from Indoor to Outdoor racing...)
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Old 01-24-2004, 06:25 AM   #7614
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Default Drive shaft?

Who's center drive shaft does everyone use. Aluminum AE? Niftech? Who's is the lightest & thinnest over the stock plastic one? Thanks.

Last edited by Rick Worth; 01-24-2004 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 01-24-2004, 06:59 AM   #7615
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Default Ozwald.

The purpose for this is to make the car rotate on high bite traction tracks and not tip over or pick up tires.. By lower the hinge pins it makes the car much looser but not with more steering just less rear grip.. Where as running the camber link down and long makes the car rotate like a SOB. I did put .030 shims under my shock tower i forgot to mention.

Hope this helps.

Mike Blackstock
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Old 01-24-2004, 07:52 AM   #7616
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MIke B. .030 Shim under both shock Towers or just just the fornt or rear one? What does that achieve?
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Old 01-24-2004, 07:57 AM   #7617
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Just a fine tune adjustment basically.. I think camber links are .100 from top to bottom.. So by me running the link in the lower hole and then raising it .030 i am only lowering the camberlink .070 so basically a feel .. I raised both the front and rear towers.. So i was trying to get alittle more steering in the front by raising that one and the rear i was trying to get alittle more grip by raising that one.. Hope this makes sense.. Also i am not sure the exact # between the top and bottom hole for the camberlink that is just a guess..


Mike Blackstock

Quote:
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MIke B. .030 Shim under both shock Towers or just just the fornt or rear one? What does that achieve?
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Old 01-24-2004, 08:16 AM   #7618
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Thanks Mike. See you in 9 days down at the Snowbirds
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Old 01-24-2004, 09:48 PM   #7619
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OK. I have added the stock F block and R 3+2 block to the back of my TC3, and took pics to show what i was talking about a few pages back. Measuring the rear hinge pin shows me a difference from the front of the hinge pin at .375, and the rear of the same pin at .385. This gives you anti-dive in the rear of the car. It is a slight amount, but this is why i mentioned you may need washers to make sure you have zero squat in the rear. These measurements were equal on both sides of the rear of the car.

This pic shows use of no washers and the mounts used...
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File Type: jpg rear squat 2.jpg (103.4 KB, 213 views)
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Old 01-24-2004, 09:49 PM   #7620
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This pic is from the side of the car, if you look closely you can see the anti-dive added with use of the stock F and R 3+2 mounts...
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