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Old 01-20-2004, 10:44 AM   #7531
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
By the way, this is a PAIN IN THE A$$ without a drill press!

- Dave
Dave,
can you post a pic how you are postioning your batteries in your car when its mod like that,, the reason i ask i bought a tc3 and the chassis has been mild like that and slot widen, but i notice when i place a battery pack in there the bars are wanting to hit the drive shaft ,, and if i postion them to the other side of the battery they are in the way of the hold down bar causing it not to clamp down properly. i know its got to be something simple that iam not doing ,, but keep in mind iam a oval racer new to touring

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Old 01-20-2004, 10:46 AM   #7532
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ment to say the neg and postive post off the pack bars,, for hard wiring the pack in. thats what i meant when i meantion bars , hope that help clear up my question alittle bit,, thanks

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Old 01-20-2004, 10:49 AM   #7533
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TC3Rookie... what surface are you running on? I had the exact opposite problem, any slight movement of the steering wheel and my car wanted to swap ends...
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Old 01-20-2004, 10:56 AM   #7534
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I use green springs in the front to get a little more front bite with green or silver springs in the rear. You may want to add a rear sway bar to get the rear to rotate a little better or add some drop in the rear.
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Old 01-20-2004, 11:16 AM   #7535
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TC3Rookie:

I race at SoCal which is an extreamly tight smooth asphault track. I had the same problem for a long time with the push... this is what I did.

Rear shock tower infront, blue springs in front, #2 shock pistons all the way around, 40w shock oil, silver springs in back, 4 degrees of caster in front. the rear block is R+3+2, 2 degrees of camber in front with 1 degree of camber in the rear. 6.5 degrees of droop in front with 4 degrees of droop in the rear, 5mm ride hidgh all the way around, and swaybars in the front and rear.

that all helped for me, now my car holds the turns really nice...

Hope this helps...
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Old 01-20-2004, 11:19 AM   #7536
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Default Re: bad steering

Quote:
Originally posted by tc3rookie
during a recent race i had some problems turning sharp enough for some of the turns. thye car would turn too wide, and only a definite punch of the throttle would bring it around fast enough. i set my radio's endpoints all the way the rack would allow. i plan to switch to the ntc3 rack this week, but i still wonder what setups will allow sharper turning. i swapped back to the front tower, and used the middle hole #2 pistons 50 wt oil and blue springs in the front, with middle hole, silver springs, #2 piston and 50 wt oil in the rear, with no sway bars. droop and ride height are still stock. it was a VERY tight track. any ideas?
Do yourself a favour and get the same amount of lock both ways. Due to a silly design feature of the TC3, it has more lock to the right than the left. This because the c carrier/hub carrier is NOT symmetrical - it has more material along one edge than the other. As the part is used both sides, this material restricts the left steering arm when full left lock is used. Note the gap in rack when full left lock is applied. Now note the gap in the rack when full right lock is applied - there's less on the right isn't there!

Dremmel the material away from the left carrier SMALL amounts at a time until you get the lock you desire. Problem solved.
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Old 01-20-2004, 11:38 AM   #7537
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Default Re: Re: bad steering

Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
Do yourself a favour and get the same amount of lock both ways. Due to a silly design feature of the TC3, it has more lock to the right than the left. This because the c carrier/hub carrier is NOT symmetrical - it has more material along one edge than the other. As the part is used both sides, this material restricts the left steering arm when full left lock is used. Note the gap in rack when full left lock is applied. Now note the gap in the rack when full right lock is applied - there's less on the right isn't there!

Dremmel the material away from the left carrier SMALL amounts at a time until you get the lock you desire. Problem solved.
I've always set my radio with about 20% less steering turning left due to the torque steer of shaft cars. I know many factory dirivers that do the same. The original guy with the bad steering problem didn't say if it was only when he turned to the left. I think there are other setups that he can try to remedy his problem.
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Old 01-20-2004, 11:42 AM   #7538
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Buy the Losi knuckles. They help too
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Old 01-20-2004, 11:44 AM   #7539
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quite true, but as he mentioned he races on a tight track this is something he might like to try anyway. The stock lock is a bit ropey in my opinion, though I already know loads disagree with me on this - others think it's the mutts nuts.

Take your pick.............

But Pleeeeeasse lets not go over it again

DaveW - over to you..........
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Old 01-20-2004, 11:56 AM   #7540
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Default Re: Re: Re: bad steering

Quote:
Originally posted by P2
I've always set my radio with about 20% less steering turning left due to the torque steer of shaft cars. I know many factory dirivers that do the same. The original guy with the bad steering problem didn't say if it was only when he turned to the left. I think there are other setups that he can try to remedy his problem.
The torquesteer business only applies while the car accelerates sharply. At all other times it's a non-issue. It's far more important to have the car correctly laterally balanced and the chassis nice and stiff tweak free.

Put it this way I would miss that lock. If I reduce lock on more open tracks, I reduce left and right lock equally. Go figure.....

We're all different i suppose
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Old 01-20-2004, 11:59 AM   #7541
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to answer some questions; i run on unprepared asphalt that is pretty rough. i think a little less rear bite and more steering might help. i'll try the losi knuckles etc. thanx.
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Old 01-20-2004, 12:21 PM   #7542
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
By the way, this is a PAIN IN THE A$$ without a drill press!

- Dave
Dont tell me you don't have a drill press, dave! I have seen some of the other (crazy) work you have done to your chassis, so this is surprising. I did mine with the dremel drill press, and it turned out excellent.

As far as my upper deck, it turned out excellent, but the digital camera my mother "passed down" to me will not work on my computer for some reason. You'll have to see it at the birds!

Also, Dave, I will be leaving on the Sunday (prob. in the morning). PM or email me your cell phone number if you have one.
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Old 01-20-2004, 01:05 PM   #7543
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BIGDON18: That pic, if you look close, is of my chassis in the works. It is still not done. It has quite a bit of work to go to be finished. I was working on it earlier and was so frustrated with it, i thought i would share my aggravation.... after 2 hours on it, i needed a break! The slots themselves are widened 0.125" towards the centerline of the chassis when measured from the original edge of the slot. The center bracing itself is removed to equal .200", measured from the same location. This is measured to fit 3300GP cells using Deans 2.0 bars, but hardwiring from speedo to the cell itself, not a bar attached to the + and - of the battery. I will also be taping my cells into place, no strap. I am removing the strap and screws to help lighten that side a few grams more. Tape will help assure no pack movement in the event i find the boards! The chassis will most likely be complete tomorrow, and i can include some pics of the chassis with a battery, tranny cases and driveshaft placed to give you an idea what i am talking about. If you are having a problem with the bars near the shaft, is there another way to bend them to avoid it, or is it just that close? I can see why the bars would hit the strap as well, and have seen some guys use a sanding drum and dremel to add a curved part in the strap to gain access. But for that to be the only thing holding my 75$ pack in, i wouldnt want to cut into it any more than i would have too! Hardwiring to the cell isnt something i do at every race, keep in mind this car is being build for Snowbirds, everything possible to reduce resistance and weight is being done. Let me know what works on your car... its hard to really judge without seeing the chassis itself. It may just be the chassis is cut too deeply towards the centerline to have battery bars towards the shaft...?

vtl1180ny: Horatio's answer is more than sufficient. Making the car as balanced weight wise fore, aft, and left to right, will always give you a better handling car. Moving the batteries closer to the centerline is a great way to do this, keeping in mind the more material you remove from the center brace, the more torsional (twist) flex you add to the chassis.

TC3rookie: Sounds to me, if this is a problem in some of the corners, and not all of them, then it could be solved with tweaking your toe in/out in the front, droop, and your bumpsteer. If the car is rock solid tractionwise, then you need to free the car up so it turns without excessive throttle input, right? It just sounds like it isnt necessarily a shock/spring and shock tower location issue. When the car is really close to a setup you like, but you just need a few things here and there, its time to look for the fine details. Just curious, what tire and inserts are you running? Sometimes just changing the rear insert to something firmer, with nothing else changed, can do the trick.

As far as lock to lock steering goes, it is best to build your car as even as physically possible. (some cars cant be built that way without modification) That includes steering lock, weight bias, ETC. Track experience is another. Some drivers do not use full lock, some like having it. Neither is wrong, but one CAN BE faster. Again, depends on the driver, and track (conditions) driven on. In a situation where traction is NOT premium, like rubber tires on carpet (i think this is what HORATIO was talking about before on this thread...), or rough low bite unprepared asphalt, more steering lock CAN be an advantage. Try it. Its racing, twist, tweak, bend, cut, and drill, if it breaks, dont do it again... or as much, and go buy another new part... Finding that sweet spot with the car, is what its all about.

- Dave
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Old 01-20-2004, 01:16 PM   #7544
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Quote:
Originally posted by JWATT
Cut about 1/8" off of the shock ball end. This will allow the bottom spring cup to lower along with the ride height.
I thought that my be a good solution thank you for confirming that
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Old 01-20-2004, 01:22 PM   #7545
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BIGDON18: This is a pic showing the lines on the underside of the chassis that denote the measurements before cutting. You can see some of the cell slots arent finished, and the lines that show where they will be when done. The lines in the middle on the cell slots will be relief areas where more material is taken away with the dremel to again, take away more weight. More pics to come, hope they will help.

PROFICAR403: I seen a dremel press here at HTUSA, but i only have a cordless 7.2 volt dremel... so it wouldnt fit the press. Ive been doing all my work for years with a cordless and files and such, so i just couldnt justify 200$ on a new dremel and press for what i could do for free with a steady hand... I cant wait to get to the Birds!! Ill be leaving the 30th (Friday), EARLY...LOL Did you ever get tires?! Im waiting on graphite sheet, i may not get to do a center brace in time. Ill PM, or email you my celli #.

On a sad/funny note: My racin buddy got his magnet zapper in from Team 1 RC (good thing), then his Comp Elec. GFX blew up (bad thing)...talk about bad luck... i think i will carry an old skool charge cord and car battery to the Birds just for him... ***Melvin, this year HAS GOT TO GO TROUBLE FREE!!! No blown radiators, no lockouts of the timeshare at 1am, no drunk/loud neighbors, and no hotel room losses mid race week!!! TROPHIES ONLY!!***

- Dave

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Last edited by DaveW; 01-20-2004 at 01:27 PM.
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